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  1. #221
    Hi Joe
    I don't see how I can power it up if I disconnect the front panel. Anyway I've stripped and reassembled it for a 3rd time paying particular attention to the points you mentioned and the result is still a pretty dead boom.

  2. #222
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Well, what I mean is remove the front panel and disconnect its flat flex from the mainboard. Then plug in the power on the rear side. You may observe that the display is coming back alive. If so, the front panel PCB or the flat flex cable has a fault. Don't worry, running a Boom without the front panel PCB attached is no problem. You can still control it with the IR remote unless it is actually dead.
    Please also measure the voltages between ground (gold plating at one of the five screw positions on the mainboard) and the leftmost three pins of the display, then also between ground and the rightmost three pins. Each set of three pins is shorted together so they all have the same potential. It should be +5V on the left and between 2.5 and 4V on the right. If you have 5V on the right side, the display power circuitry is broken and everything else is probably still working but you can't see anything.
    If you like, you can send me the Boom for diagnosis. I cannot promise anything but it might be worth a try. Please send me a PN if you are interested.


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts

  3. #223

    Boom not dead, repair sounds good.

    I mentioned my "dead" Boom to my brother who defected to Sonos a while ago and he posted me his surplus Boom, I'm in Spain, he in UK. He sent it with the wrong PSU, an 18V radio one. I plugged it in with my 12 volt Boom PSU and nothing, turns out my PSU has a break in the cable and his and my repaired Boom work a treat if I get the cable in the working position.

    So I now have 2 working Booms and one slightly defective PSU. I spoke with my Brother and he said he had powered his up with the 18V supply instead of the correct 12 volt one.
    I haven't tried this 18 volt supply, does anyone know the range of supply voltage that is acceptable or where to obtain a Boom PSU. Would hate to destroy it after my hard work.

    By the way the repaired BOOM sounds great with the new speaker repair. Thanks for the detailed pictures on page 10 of this thread.

  4. #224
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by veragooner View Post
    I mentioned my "dead" Boom to my brother who defected to Sonos a while ago and he posted me his surplus Boom, I'm in Spain, he in UK. He sent it with the wrong PSU, an 18V radio one. I plugged it in with my 12 volt Boom PSU and nothing, turns out my PSU has a break in the cable and his and my repaired Boom work a treat if I get the cable in the working position.

    So I now have 2 working Booms and one slightly defective PSU. I spoke with my Brother and he said he had powered his up with the 18V supply instead of the correct 12 volt one.
    I haven't tried this 18 volt supply, does anyone know the range of supply voltage that is acceptable or where to obtain a Boom PSU. Would hate to destroy it after my hard work.

    By the way the repaired BOOM sounds great with the new speaker repair. Thanks for the detailed pictures on page 10 of this thread.
    My boom has a 18V supply. I believe 18V is OK for all Booms - 18V was supplied with early production models. I think it was reduced to lower voltage to reduce heat of display.

    Check the post from one of the founders
    https://forums.slimdevices.com/showt...l=1#post333849

    That said, I don;t know about using a 18V Radio PSu with a Boom - it may not have enough amps.

    edit:

    Radio is 18v @ 1A
    Boom 18V PSU is 18V @ 1.67A
    Boom 12V PSU is 12V@ 2.5A

    IIRC Boom has a cap which needs to be able to supply a large surge of current at power up and Radio PSU may not be capable.
    Last edited by bpa; 2019-01-24 at 15:17.

  5. #225
    Junior Member
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    Jan 2019
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    1

    Experience report

    Hi all,

    I just wanted to say a quick thank-you to JoeMuc2009 - I sent him my Squeezebox Boom a couple of weeks ago to replace the screen, and he went far beyond the call of duty during the repair.

    After he had fixed the screen and reassembled the Boom, the board suddenly died. I'm pretty sure that this was my own fault for ignoring his advice and not packaging the Boom properly when I sent it to Germany--but Joe took full responsibility, replaced the board for no extra charge, and the Boom now works perfectly. The new screen is bright and clear, and the cost of the repair was very reasonable. Joe managed the whole process extremely professionally, with great communication and transparency at each step of the process.

    If you have hardware problems with any of your Squeezeboxes, I would recommend Joe's services 1,000%.

    Thanks again Joe!

    Ed.

  6. #226
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by edkelly View Post
    Hi all,

    I just wanted to say a quick thank-you to JoeMuc2009 - I sent him my Squeezebox Boom a couple of weeks ago to replace the screen, and he went far beyond the call of duty during the repair.

    After he had fixed the screen and reassembled the Boom, the board suddenly died. I'm pretty sure that this was my own fault for ignoring his advice and not packaging the Boom properly when I sent it to Germany--but Joe took full responsibility, replaced the board for no extra charge, and the Boom now works perfectly. The new screen is bright and clear, and the cost of the repair was very reasonable. Joe managed the whole process extremely professionally, with great communication and transparency at each step of the process.

    If you have hardware problems with any of your Squeezeboxes, I would recommend Joe's services 1,000%.

    Thanks again Joe!

    Ed.
    Joe is an amazing guy - Thumbs up!
    LMS 7.7, 7.8 and 7.9 - 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB2. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, JBL OnBeat, XBoxOne, XBMC, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, , Pi B3, B2, Pi B+, 2xPi A+, Odroid-C1, Odroid-C2, Cubie2, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5

  7. #227
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Thanks Philippe, I'll return this - you're no less amazing

    So I have repaired the left speaker of one of my own Booms today, and deliberately picked one of the rubber surrounds again as I own a better adhesive (for modelling) now. It hardens and fully cures within 30 minutes and does not stay sticky like the one that Good Hifi is selling along with their surrounds. Well, it kind of worked, but the result isn't pretty. I fixed the outer surround-to-metal-frame first, and once that was dry, took care of the surround-to-cone area. Again, I found that the rubber surrounds are pretty stiff and small. In the end it appears that the surround is pulling the cone towards the front a bit which might result in audible differences between left and right for sensitive ears. And boy did that inner surround ring refuse to keep stuck down. It was quite a fight and I had to apply another seam all around to fill up the gaps.
    Eventually the farting bass is now gone and it sounds pretty normal but I'm still more convinced by the foam surrounds. The rubber surrounds specified for the Boom are 3" which is too tight. If it must be the rubber variant, I would instead recommend something between 3.2" and 3.4" which might be available as well. Don't hold me responsible though, please, I'm just guessing here.

    Cheers,
    Joe


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts

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