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  1. #91
    Senior Member toby10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ludlow1977 View Post
    Why won't my stereo boom box work?......
    Start another thread for help with your Boom.

  2. #92
    Senior Member aubuti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbroughton View Post
    So far, I am glad that I spent the time and money to do this. Questions, Comments??

    Reference:
    http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/res...tions-8418.pdf
    Thanks for the info. While I am not too bad at DIY things, the "easing" and "elongating by about 3/32" have me a little worried about trying it myself. As noted in a couple other threads (like this one: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showth...om-disassembly, I'm still working to get the Boom apart. Do you have any pictures of your surgery? If not (or even if you do), could you give a more detailed step-by-step? Thanks!

  3. #93
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    Replacement Driver modificaton

    Quote Originally Posted by aubuti View Post
    Thanks for the info. While I am not too bad at DIY things, the "easing" and "elongating by about 3/32" have me a little worried about trying it myself. As noted in a couple other threads (like this one: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showth...om-disassembly, I'm still working to get the Boom apart. Do you have any pictures of your surgery? If not (or even if you do), could you give a more detailed step-by-step? Thanks!

    You're right - the challenge is getting the boom apart. The trickiest for me was to get the small ribbon cables detached, as you go along. I do have a few pics of the new driver in place before reassembly. I might work on the second Boom in a few days, so I'll take a few more of the process if I get to it. I will check the procedure to at least show you the replacement driver pics after I figure out how to post them here.

    As to the minor 'grinding' on the new driver frame, if you have a roto type tool and have used it on some tasks, you will be fine doing the minor mod. It's a little more delicate than most jobs with a roto tool, like grinding or cutting off bolts, etc. In this case you will hold the speaker in your hand and ease the tool into the spots you need to remove. The frame is aluminum and only a small amount has to come off. I took some pains not to get any of the grindings into the speaker, but the frame is aluminum, so a slight breath blowing them out or indirect canned air takes care of any debris.

    I'll see what I can do about the pics I do have in a day or so.
    phb (3 Booms, 2 SB3, 1 Rec'vr, 2 Controllers, 2xTouch, 2 Radios (1UE), iPeng &UE: itouch & iPad, Squeezepad, 2 SoundBridge R1000s, NEW pCP Server + pCP Player)

  4. #94
    Senior Member Mnyb's Avatar
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    The dayton driver has a pretty low sensitivity ? how does it match with the treble unit , I do realise that the goal is "working" replacement as a proper one cant be found.

    My boom has not failed yet but due to the design error they are all predestined to eventually go this way .

    Maybe one should grind of the edges of the plastic in advance so that I don't have to change drivers , looking forward to good disassembly pics
    --------------------------------------------------------------------
    Main hifi: Rasbery PI digi+ MeridianG68J MeridianHD621 MeridianG98DH 2 x MeridianDSP5200 MeridianDSP5200HC 2 xMeridianDSP3100 +Rel Stadium 3 sub.
    Bedroom/Office: Boom
    Loggia: Raspi hifiberry dac + Adams
    Bathroom : Radio (with battery)
    iPad with iPengHD & SqueezePad
    (spares Touch, SB3, reciever ,controller )
    server Intel NUC Esxi VM Linux mint 18 LMS 7.9.2

    http://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html

  5. #95
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    Pictures...(maybe)

    Quote Originally Posted by aubuti View Post
    thanks for the info. While i am not too bad at diy things, the "easing" and "elongating by about 3/32" have me a little worried about trying it myself. As noted in a couple other threads (like this one: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showth...om-disassembly, i'm still working to get the boom apart. Do you have any pictures of your surgery? If not (or even if you do), could you give a more detailed step-by-step? Thanks!
    Name:  Boom Pic A.jpg
Views: 2523
Size:  233.2 KBName:  SB BOOM Pic B.jpg
Views: 2521
Size:  245.2 KB[attach]13982

    ------------ I don't think I did this correctly, so bear with me..................... if the pics work:

    Boom Pic A shows the original and replacement drivers. Note also the "Grill Removal Tool" which
    is actually a Dental Pic tool that comes within a set of four that I find use for a million tasks
    in the shop and house. With the "L" shaped end, this pick is exactly perfect for removing the
    speaker grills by hooking into the perf holes in the grill and gently pulling it out, corner
    by corner.

    Boom Pic B shows the new driver resting in place; screws holes not yet elongated; frame has been
    'eased' a bit at the tweeter and around the corner counterclockwise. Then, fits perfectly.

    Boom Pick C shows also the 'eased' areas of the driver frame; holes not yet elongated slightly
    to be perfect alignment.

    I have now taken apart the second boom, which has one driver failing. I plan to install the 'super-glued repaired' drivers from Boom #1 into this Boom #2 and see how it sounds. I took pictures and will send them tomorrow when I see what kind of mess I have made with these pictures.

    questions, comments?? thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    phb (3 Booms, 2 SB3, 1 Rec'vr, 2 Controllers, 2xTouch, 2 Radios (1UE), iPeng &UE: itouch & iPad, Squeezepad, 2 SoundBridge R1000s, NEW pCP Server + pCP Player)

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mnyb View Post
    The dayton driver has a pretty low sensitivity ? how does it match with the treble unit , I do realise that the goal is "working" replacement as a proper one cant be found.

    looking forward to good disassembly pics
    =======================


    I will admit that I like just a little tingle/thump in my sound, though I have been careful with
    the Booms from the very beginning, even before these problems surfaced.

    With the original booms, I would typically have the Treble at +5 and the bass at +10 (out of 23 clicks available).

    With the Dayton drivers, I have been experimenting some, but am now at -5 T and +15 B. From that
    you can conclude that I feel that the Dayton drivers are a little "too bright" and need some additional
    bass boost for my taste. Of course, this may be a function of how the Boom's circuits are designed
    and that the Dayton drivers would not be an exact match for the original driver design characteristics.

    Overall, I am satisfied with the replacement drivers, but will be curious as to the sound of my superglued
    original drivers which I will install in ShaBoom in a day or so.

    Disassembly pics tomorrow.
    phb (3 Booms, 2 SB3, 1 Rec'vr, 2 Controllers, 2xTouch, 2 Radios (1UE), iPeng &UE: itouch & iPad, Squeezepad, 2 SoundBridge R1000s, NEW pCP Server + pCP Player)

  7. #97
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    Squeezebox Boom Disassembly in 8 Easy Steps and 1 Hard Step

    Tools Needed:

    Torx TX10 Screwdriver (if you have a changeable bit screw driver, the barrel will likely be too big in diameter to work)
    Small bright flashlight, that you may have to hold in your teeth…..
    Small flat “tool” such as a popsicle stick or filed down toothbrush shaft
    Needle Nose Pliers – small/medium size
    small 2 x 4 block or similar to support Face Plate Panel hanging over the side in step 4

    Steps (carefully; plan ahead!)

    1. Remove the Power Cable and gently grasp your Boom and lay it on a soft cloth face up on your workbench;

    2. Label and remove the Grills. Put them aside; you’ll use them later to make the icing .

    3. Note that there are 3 recessed screws on each half of the case, 6 total; and, 4 screws on the tabs of the Front Panel/Faceplate. I suggest removing the case screws first, 3 at a time, so you can pick up the Boom and carefully shake out the recessed screws onto the cloth and put them aside. NOTE: the screws are tighter than you might expect; be sure the screw driver is engaged properly and then provide firm downward pressure to carefully unscrew them

    4. Remove the 4 screws on the Front Panel. Carefully lift up the Panel. There is a small white flat ribbon cable attached to the circuit board at the lower right side of the Panel. I chose not to remove this cable, so I let the panel hang over the side, supported by the 2 x 4 block, so it’s not hanging by the cable.

    There is a small green flat ribbon cable in the upper right of the Circuit Board. Gently lift/remove/pull the cable out of the plastic housing, because you will have to remove the Board to proceed.

    5. There are 5 screws on the Circuit Board to remove.

    6. On the under side of the Board, in the upper left corner is where the wiring harness is connected: you can’t see it yet…. The procedure I used was to tilt up the Board as if the upper left corner was a fixed hinge point; in essence, it is, so far. The Board may seem still fixed in place, so gently loosen the Board by prying it up slightly using your fingers or the popsicle stick or similar tool.

    Now you will tilt/lift the Board up, carefully, using the upper left corner as a fixed point. Since I chose not to detach the white ribbon cable, I have to manipulate the Board and the Panel together as if they were a sandwich. Be careful!! Be careful where you place your fingers to hold the Panel/Board, especially with the wifi antenna.

    Work the Board up, using the upper left as a fixed hinge point; there is a very slight give to the wiring harness. When you can see a little UNDER the Board, use the flashlight to see the harness and plug. Reach in and carefully ease a little slack out of the wiring harness. If you have long fingers you might be able to unplug the wire harness from the board. My fingers weren’t long enough to get any leverage; so I used needle nosed pliers to grasp the plug and very gently wiggle the plug a little at a time to get it off. These are the times when the flashlight was being held in my teeth. Plug off?? (This was the hard step……)

    7. There are 2 more screws in the case to take out!! Once out, use your hands to gently squeeze the case around the long sides, like you were checking a loaf of bread for freshness. The case should detach itself from the frame. There is a little gasket around the edge of the case that may come awry. Later, use your finger nail to gently get it back in the small groove along the mating edge.

    8. Now that you have the frame separated you can remove the drivers for repair or replacement. Take a look at your parts and pieces, making sure you know where they go to put the Boom back together. Make notes! Remember those 2 last screws that go back in first, before you plug the harness!! Admire the really nice workmanship of the Boom – nice job, Slim Engineers!

    Look closely at the frame and driver spacing. Is it the frame that causes the problem? Doesn’t obviously seem so, on mine at least.

    9. Reassemble in the correct order. QED

    There's a limit on attachments; see next post for last pictures. Good Luck

    Here are the first pics:
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    phb (3 Booms, 2 SB3, 1 Rec'vr, 2 Controllers, 2xTouch, 2 Radios (1UE), iPeng &UE: itouch & iPad, Squeezepad, 2 SoundBridge R1000s, NEW pCP Server + pCP Player)

  8. #98
    Senior Member JJZolx's Avatar
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    Has anyone looked into whether anyone can replace the surrounds on the original drivers, rather than replacing the drivers?

  9. #99
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    Squeezebox Boom Disassembly in 8 Easy Steps and 1 Hard Step, part II

    Here are the last pictures: (maybe...)
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    phb (3 Booms, 2 SB3, 1 Rec'vr, 2 Controllers, 2xTouch, 2 Radios (1UE), iPeng &UE: itouch & iPad, Squeezepad, 2 SoundBridge R1000s, NEW pCP Server + pCP Player)

  10. #100
    Senior Member Mnyb's Avatar
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    Excellent pictorial great .
    --------------------------------------------------------------------
    Main hifi: Rasbery PI digi+ MeridianG68J MeridianHD621 MeridianG98DH 2 x MeridianDSP5200 MeridianDSP5200HC 2 xMeridianDSP3100 +Rel Stadium 3 sub.
    Bedroom/Office: Boom
    Loggia: Raspi hifiberry dac + Adams
    Bathroom : Radio (with battery)
    iPad with iPengHD & SqueezePad
    (spares Touch, SB3, reciever ,controller )
    server Intel NUC Esxi VM Linux mint 18 LMS 7.9.2

    http://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html

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