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  1. #1
    Member
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    Feb 2006
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    Wellington New Zealand
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    65

    SB3 appears dead

    Hi,

    Went to play my SB3 today and it wouldn't start when I pushed the red button on remote. Disconnected rear plug and reinserted expecting to see Logitech logo etc.... Nothing. Repeated 2-3 times with same result. Did notice however that red light behind optical port is on when power connected but that is the only life it seems to have. Any suggestions?

    Cheers,
    Mike

  2. #2
    Member
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    Feb 2006
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    Wellington New Zealand
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    SB3 appears dead

    Hi,

    Went to use my SB3 today and it didn't start up as usual when I pushed the red button on the remote. I disconnected the power plug at rear of SB3 and reinserted it expecting to see the Logitech logo etc but nothing happened. Repeated 2-3 times with no joy. I did notice that there was a red light glowing behind the optical port when I had the plug connected but that was the only sign of life. Any suggestions would be most welcome.

    Thanks,
    Mike

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    234
    Try it one more time the way you described but hold down the Add button on the remote.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Phil Leigh's Avatar
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    Apr 2005
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    Cornwall, England
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    unplug the power supply, hold down "+" on the remote, keep holding it down and pointing at the SB and reconnect the power supply. This forces a factory reset...
    You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it ain't what you'd call minimal...
    Touch(wired/W7)+Teddy Pardo PSU - Audiolense 3.3/2.0+INGUZ DRC - MF M1 DAC - Linn 5103 - full Aktiv 5.1 system (6x LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5), Pekin Tuner, Townsend Supertweeters,VdH Toslink,Kimber 8TC Speaker & Chord Signature Plus Interconnect cables
    Stax4070+SRM7/II phones
    Kitchen Boom, Outdoors: SB Radio, Harmony One remote for everything.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Phil Leigh's Avatar
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    Apr 2005
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    Cornwall, England
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    if that fails, repeat but hold down "1" instead of +/add to reset the xilinx chip
    You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it ain't what you'd call minimal...
    Touch(wired/W7)+Teddy Pardo PSU - Audiolense 3.3/2.0+INGUZ DRC - MF M1 DAC - Linn 5103 - full Aktiv 5.1 system (6x LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5), Pekin Tuner, Townsend Supertweeters,VdH Toslink,Kimber 8TC Speaker & Chord Signature Plus Interconnect cables
    Stax4070+SRM7/II phones
    Kitchen Boom, Outdoors: SB Radio, Harmony One remote for everything.

  6. #6
    Member
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Wellington New Zealand
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    65
    Thanks Phil and Avta - tried both suggestions but to no avail - still not booting up. My SB3 is always plugged in and so is usually slightly warm to touch. It is currently cold suggesting that it is not getting power to the internal power supply perhaps. Guess I am stuck with a dead unit as it is 2.5 years old and outside its warranty - although for the cost it should last longer than that. Worst of all - this is my only source of music now and so it is going to be a quiet house!!!

    Do you think it is worth taking it along to an electronics shop for them to look at? If so, what would be the best type of serviceman to work on this - computer tech or tv/audio tech?

    Many thanks,
    Mike

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    South Coast, NSW, Australia
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    Aztek,
    The exact same thing happened to my SB3 a week ago. Cold, no display but red LED on in the little square optical link on the back.
    So, after trying all the same things that people suggested for you I reluctantly unscrewed the back and measured the volts with my trusty meter - only 3.87, should be 5.00 indicating that the little switch mode PSU had semi failed.
    I plugged in a PSU from my second SB3 and all worked again.
    I'm now down to one SB3 until I build a new 5 volt power supply as buying a replacement unit in Australia is impossible.
    My advice then is to try and borrow a PSU from another SB3 to see if your SB3 is still OK - if you cannot borrow a PSU, then take it to your local Electronics shop and ask them to test the PSU - it should be able to supply 5 volts at 2 amps, they should also be able to rig up a 5 volt supply to test the SB3.
    A camel is a racehorse designed by a committee.

    Seen sprayed on the outside wall of the local library -
    Three things I hate in life :
    1. Vandalism
    2. Irony
    3. Lists

  8. #8
    Member
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    Feb 2006
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    Wellington New Zealand
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    Thanks Wirruna - sounds like I have the same or a similar problem - bugger! Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or skills to test as you did so will take a copy of what you have written and take it to a technician. Trouble is - in Wellington New Zealand - there aren't likely to be any quick fixes...

    Many thanks indeed for your help.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Jan 2006
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    South Coast, NSW, Australia
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    Aztek,
    My PSU is marked
    "GROUP WEST"
    Model: AUT-05-1600
    Input : 100v-240v 50-60Hz/0.3A
    Output: 5v - 1600ma

    It is about 2 1/2 years old.

    A quick look at last year's Jaycar catalog (264 Taranaki St,Wellington, NZ, phone 801 9005 open Sunday) shows a suitable replacement, cat # MP-3140. (Just kicking myself for not looking in the Jaycar catalog earlier! I'll get one of these next week in Sydney.)

    Let us know how you get on.
    Last edited by Wirrunna; 2008-07-12 at 20:19. Reason: Added info on a replacement
    A camel is a racehorse designed by a committee.

    Seen sprayed on the outside wall of the local library -
    Three things I hate in life :
    1. Vandalism
    2. Irony
    3. Lists

  10. #10
    Member
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Wellington New Zealand
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    Thanks - mine is exactly the same. So if I understand you correctly - it is the external power supply that is not delivering the required 5v to SB3 therefore resulting in it to be unable to boot up. I guess the fact that there is a red light behind the optical input suggest that at least some power is getting there. Is it possible that the problem is internal or do you think it in your case it is the external power supply that is the problem?

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