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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul- View Post
    Yes pCP does BT Sink and pCP 6 will do BT source (Nothing Airplay however) Although a piZero doesn't do both BT and wifi well. How does this chipset solve wifi/BT interferance. Is it 2 different radios?

    Why else!


    Re BT/WiFi, that's really the key capability of esp32, so they have worked a lot on co-existence. Still, I have to say that I'm surprised by how well WiFi LMS connection, resampling and then BT source works
    LMS 7.7, 7.8 and 7.9 - 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB2. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, JBL OnBeat, XBoxOne, XBMC, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, , Pi B3, B2, Pi B+, 2xPi A+, Odroid-C1, Odroid-C2, Cubie2, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5

  2. #22
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    and one for me to please.

    Will you send a PM with payment details?

  3. #23
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
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    A first go at a 3D-printable case. I've included openings for the SPDIF, speaker wires, power jack, 3.5mm jack, and the IO connector J6. So far nothing for J4 (battery) or J3 (main header). J3 might be better with right-angle header pins, so that access would be through the end of the case, rather than top or bottom.

    For the time being I've made the case long enough to completely enclose the protruding antenna on the WROVER board, on the basis that PLA is unlikely to block the wifi and bluetooth signals, but it could easily be shortened by 7mm so that the antenna could protrude through a slot.

    No provision for a fan at the moment, but that could easily replace the ventilation slots.

    Internally the lower half of the case has a couple of small ridges to support and secure the PCB

    I'm not sure what the batteries are like yet, so not sure whether access to J4 is necessary - maybe an enlarged case with room for the batteries would be better.

    As usual, for a DIY 3D printed case, a significant issue is how to join the two halves of the case. A snap-together design would be best, but they're not easy to print cleanly without a lot of trial and error in my experience.




  4. #24
    I'm interested in either one or two, depending on final cost. Preference if possible is to receive the board(s) completely soldered and ready to go.

    Please let me know payment / shipping details and I'll etransfer funds. I'm in Canada.

    Thanks!
    Brawny

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by chill View Post
    A first go at a 3D-printable case. I've included openings for the SPDIF, speaker wires, power jack, 3.5mm jack, and the IO connector J6. So far nothing for J4 (battery) or J3 (main header). J3 might be better with right-angle header pins, so that access would be through the end of the case, rather than top or bottom.

    For the time being I've made the case long enough to completely enclose the protruding antenna on the WROVER board, on the basis that PLA is unlikely to block the wifi and bluetooth signals, but it could easily be shortened by 7mm so that the antenna could protrude through a slot.

    No provision for a fan at the moment, but that could easily replace the ventilation slots.

    Internally the lower half of the case has a couple of small ridges to support and secure the PCB

    I'm not sure what the batteries are like yet, so not sure whether access to J4 is necessary - maybe an enlarged case with room for the batteries would be better.

    As usual, for a DIY 3D printed case, a significant issue is how to join the two halves of the case. A snap-together design would be best, but they're not easy to print cleanly without a lot of trial and error in my experience.



    looks good! if you want, I could do a test print to see if it fits (just need the STL)
    -----------------------------------------------
    1 x Touch, 2 x Radio, 2 x software player, LMS 7.9.0

  6. #26
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daduke View Post
    looks good! if you want, I could do a test print to see if it fits (just need the STL)
    That would be very useful, thank you. My printer has been out of action for a while, and it's taking some effort to get it printing cleanly again. And besides, I don't have a SqueezeAMP board to test it with!

    The two STL files are in the attached zip file.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by philippe_44 View Post
    This is a pre-announce of the SqueezeliteESP32 (Software) and SqueezeAMP project(s). @bgirault sparkle the initial idea of using espressif chipset to build a squeezebox from scratch then @sle118 suggested to try esp32 instead and port squeezelite. I jumped in to help and recently we have been joined by @daduke.

    There are 2 components of the project: SqueezeAMP which is the audio board and SqueezeESP32 which is the software that runs on it. SqueezelisteESP32 can also be compiled to run on any espressif esp32 board, I'll come back on that

    1- SqueezeAMP: The project lives here https://github.com/philippe44/Squeez...ster/README.md. It's a complete audio board with the following characteristic
    [...]

    2- SqueezeliteESP32 lives here https://github.com/philippe44/squeezelite-esp32. It's the software to run on the SqueezeAMP but it can be used on any esp32-based devices.
    [...]

    This is an non-commercial, open source, free project. I have build a few SqueezeAMP board, but this is manual work that cannot scale. Anybody can make their own, there is all the information available on the github repositories
    Wow - I'm 1 week away and there is so much going on, it's hard to keep up!

    @philippe_44: A question wrt squeezelite-esp32: Which branch is from the audio perspective the most stable?
    (Or in other words: Can I use the WiFi Manager Branch w/o detrimental effects on audio?
    Also: Is that branch still compatible with gcc 5.2 (I saw the comment about 'Migrate to CMake', which made me wonder)?

    EDIT: Disregard my above question - I read through your conversation on gitter - looks like you guys are in the middle of addressing this.

    Thanks again to all involved!
    Great project(s)!!
    Last edited by slimhase; 2019-09-04 at 07:23.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by chill View Post
    That would be very useful, thank you. My printer has been out of action for a while, and it's taking some effort to get it printing cleanly again. And besides, I don't have a SqueezeAMP board to test it with!

    The two STL files are in the attached zip file.
    thanks. few issues with it - check https://daduke.org/junk/esp/ for pix

    - the cutout for the connector is too far in (connector.jpg), move it by 5.1 mm
    - good idea with the pcb resting halfway on the 'top part' (w/o slits), but it doesn't work for the headphone jack: the plastic of the jack housing is flush with the edge of the PCB, so the edge of the PCB cannot rest on the sidewall (hpjack.jpg and hpjack1.jpg). I don't see an obvious solution for this other than thinning the sidewall in the area of the jack housing.
    - the TOSLINK jack is too big for the cutout: it needs to be 9.6 mm in width but currently on is ~8.8 mm. Move the cutout ~0.7 mm further to the edge and make it 0.8 mm wider (toslink.jpg)

    I can then try again.
    -----------------------------------------------
    1 x Touch, 2 x Radio, 2 x software player, LMS 7.9.0

  9. #29
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daduke View Post
    thanks. few issues with it - check https://daduke.org/junk/esp/ for pix

    - the cutout for the connector is too far in (connector.jpg), move it by 5.1 mm
    - good idea with the pcb resting halfway on the 'top part' (w/o slits), but it doesn't work for the headphone jack: the plastic of the jack housing is flush with the edge of the PCB, so the edge of the PCB cannot rest on the sidewall (hpjack.jpg and hpjack1.jpg). I don't see an obvious solution for this other than thinning the sidewall in the area of the jack housing.
    - the TOSLINK jack is too big for the cutout: it needs to be 9.6 mm in width but currently on is ~8.8 mm. Move the cutout ~0.7 mm further to the edge and make it 0.8 mm wider (toslink.jpg)

    I can then try again.
    Excellent, thank you. Before 'sharing' I would normally: i) check for blunders, and ii) do a bit of 'fettling' to allow for the printer making the holes a fraction smaller than the model (in my experience). You've picked up a couple of blunders there (the misplaced connector, and the fouling headphone jack), but your printer seems to be more accurate than mine.

    I'll try to fix those and post another zip file.

  10. #30
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daduke View Post
    - the TOSLINK jack is too big for the cutout: it needs to be 9.6 mm in width but currently on is ~8.8 mm. Move the cutout ~0.7 mm further to the edge and make it 0.8 mm wider (toslink.jpg)
    This is a possibly an example where the printer makes smaller holes/cutouts than are in the model. In my model that cutout is 9.4mm wide, but has evidently printed out at 8.8mm. I can easily make it wider, but I'm not sure I understand where the extra width is required. In your photo, it looks as though it's the left* edge of the cutout that needs to be moved slightly to the left. Judging by the alignment of the right hand edge of the PCB with the right hand side of the case, and the right hand edge of the power jack cutout with the right hand edge of the power jack, it looks as though the right hand edge of the TOSLINK cutout is about right. Yet I think your description is suggesting to move the right hand edge 0.7mm to the right.

    So I'd say to trim the left edge of the cutout by 0.7mm and the right edge of the cutout by 0.1mm. Is that correct?

    * All lefts and rights are with respect to your photo.

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