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  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimhase View Post
    Philippe_44 was kind enough to send me one of his initial pcb builds. It arrived yesterday.

    I am really blown away!
    1st of all the size - I know there where pictures posted to compare it with a Pi.
    But when you hold it in your hands - it's tiny! (And beautifully soldered...especially the Amp chip has a real tight pitch. I couldn't have done this...)

    And it really sounds great!!
    I am powering it with a 14 Volt former Laptop Powersupply. At a decent volume level, the Amp still holds a fairly low temperature (-> I can touch it w/o problems)
    For testing I use a pair of pretty cheap 'JBL Control One" speakers (They are my rear speakers from my home cinema)
    (As this works nicely, I'll probably buy a pair of these and will try to build the SqueezAMP into one of the speakers as a mobile system.

    So, to wrap it up:
    Thank you, Philippe_44 and the others involved (esp daduke and sle118)!
    What a great, great project!

    P.S. Are these the correct command-line instructions/options for SPDIF?
    nvs_set autoexec2 str -v "squeezelite -o spdif -b 500:2000 -d all=info -n ESPAMP"

    And - is there a command to see what I have stored in the autoexec-lines? How can I delete entries?

    Oh - one last(?) question: How much mA can you draw from the 3.3V pin?
    (Maybe to drive a tiny fan)
    Thanks and Iím glad it works well for you. Iím still tweaking some aspects of the design, especially around battery charging which is causing the most heat issues.

    The 3.3V pin can drive a few 100mA extra, I will check but if you want more, itís probably just a matter of putting an inductor with larger current capabilities and smaller resistance to minimize heat, I think the TPS54202 can output up to 2A, so there is plenty of room. There are also a few points where you can cheat and access to the main supply directly.

    The spdif command is correct, you should the see the led lighting on after reboot

    I think nvs_get gives you what you want. There is help command as well
    LMS 7.7, 7.8 and 7.9 - 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB2. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, JBL OnBeat, XBoxOne, XBMC, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, , Pi B3, B2, Pi B+, 2xPi A+, Odroid-C1, Odroid-C2, Cubie2, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by chill View Post
    Excellent - thanks for testing it.

    I added a mount for the fan you linked to earlier (https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...106-ND/1165500). Ideally there would be vent holes in the sides of the case to let the blown air escape, but they'd probably make the 3D print a bit messy, so I settled on making extra vent slits in the top face. Currently the fan is centred over the amplifier chip, and it would sit outside the case - that seemed preferable to making the case deeper so that it could sit inside. But the fan is only 4mm deep, so the case would end up being 25mm deep instead of 20mm, if the fan were to be enclosed inside.



    Since those ventilation slits are curved I increased the smoothness for 3D printing, so the STL files are now quite a bit bigger.
    One thing I was thinking of is to use a right angle battery connector so that itís accessible from the side and we could use your case with a small opening there and let the battery outside. Unfortunately, finding the space is difficult and it also moves the pins pretty far inside the design and creates some routing problems. I was also about to press the go button for a small bath of 30 units so thatís frustrating to have to delay it (again). So Iím not sure ...
    LMS 7.7, 7.8 and 7.9 - 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB2. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, JBL OnBeat, XBoxOne, XBMC, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, , Pi B3, B2, Pi B+, 2xPi A+, Odroid-C1, Odroid-C2, Cubie2, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5

  3. #73
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philippe_44 View Post
    One thing I was thinking of is to use a right angle battery connector so that itís accessible from the side and we could use your case with a small opening there and let the battery outside.
    If you succeed, just let me know where you need the new opening. A new step file is probably the best way, and I can also look again at putting a fence around a speaker terminal access slot.

  4. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by chill View Post
    If you succeed, just let me know where you need the new opening. A new step file is probably the best way, and I can also look again at putting a fence around a speaker terminal access slot.
    Here is the step file. It is a super tight fit but I think it's a really good option. With that, you can chose to have the vertical battery connector inside a larger box if more convenient or the horizontal one external to your existing box, if you can modify it

    Name:  Capture d'ťcran 2019-09-14 21.30.46.png
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    Last edited by philippe_44; 2019-09-14 at 21:50.
    LMS 7.7, 7.8 and 7.9 - 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB2. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, JBL OnBeat, XBoxOne, XBMC, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, , Pi B3, B2, Pi B+, 2xPi A+, Odroid-C1, Odroid-C2, Cubie2, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5

  5. #75
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
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    I agree, that's a good option. I made a version with the battery connector cutout. That only leaves J3 pointing 'up', but with some right-angle header pins that could also point out of the end of the case - plenty of room thanks to the antenna overhang.

    That 16mm fan is quite pricey, and not easy to find outside the major parts retailers who will charge a lot in handling/postage for just one. So I made a version that will take one of the much more common 30mm fans that are sold for Raspberry Pis. Overkill for this application perhaps. The 16mm fan really would be very compact - picture something that's half the size of the fan in the photo in all three dimensions - so you could almost fit 8 of them into the volume of the 30mm fan. I'm using one of these 30mm fans on my RPi4 for emergencies. Running it at 3.3V instead of the rated 5V it draws <50mA and is virtually silent.







    Last edited by chill; 2019-09-15 at 05:36.

  6. #76
    Senior Member erland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chill View Post
    That 16mm fan is quite pricey, and not easy to find outside the major parts retailers who will charge a lot in handling/postage for just one. So I made a version that will take one of the much more common 30mm fans that are sold for Raspberry Pis. Overkill for this application perhaps.
    As a hardware for community enthusiasts I think common parts would be preferred, especially to make it accessible to people in different parts of the world, so commonly available 30 mm fan is probably a good choice.

    Would it make the 3D printing more complex if you made the case higher so the fan could be placed inside the case ?
    Iím asking because I think a less technical looking case which is a bit larger would definitely be preferred over a smaller case with parts outside the case if I want to place this in the living room somewhere where itís visible. Is there any other advantages with a small tight box which I havenít realized yet ?

    Really interesting thread by the way :-)
    Erland Isaksson (My homepage)
    Lead platform developer of ickStream Music Platform - A world of music at your fingertips

    (Also developer of many plugins/applets)

  7. #77
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
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    It's no problem from my point of view to make the case taller, so that the fan is fully enclosed.



    Philippe can probably comment on whether a fan is going to be necessary with the production version - I know he's working on minimising the heat generation, so maybe a heatsink and ventilation holes will be sufficient ultimately.

    If this is going to be visible in the living room, then personally I'd want the battery pack to be enclosed as well. That would probably add further height to the case. Then again, maybe the battery option isn't going to be used in situations where the device is in a fixed location in the living room. As I understand it, that would also help with minimising heat generation.

  8. #78
    Senior Member erland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chill View Post
    If this is going to be visible in the living room, then personally I'd want the battery pack to be enclosed as well. That would probably add further height to the case. Then again, maybe the battery option isn't going to be used in situations where the device is in a fixed location in the living room. As I understand it, that would also help with minimising heat generation.
    Would it make sense to have two options ?
    One with place for battery and one without battery.

    From my perspective there are two scenarios:

    1. People that don’t want a battery at all and would prefer a smaller case. If the battery is large a smaller case for this scenario makes sense otherwise a larger case could solve both this and next scenario.

    2. People that primarily have the player in a stationary position (with power connected) but want to be able to bring the player into the garden (or similar) without a need for a power cable. I think these would prefer a larger case which can contain the battery or alternatively a separate snap on case for the battery that can be snapped on or screwed together with the player case so it looks like one bigger case. The reason to have it as a separate snap on case instead of a larger case would only be if you want to avoid two different variants of the case that contain the player.

    I can’t really see a realistic scenario where someone would want to detach the battery when it isn’t used and only attach it when it’s used.
    Erland Isaksson (My homepage)
    Lead platform developer of ickStream Music Platform - A world of music at your fingertips

    (Also developer of many plugins/applets)

  9. #79
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
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    Having different versions is certainly possible. One complication is that there is not just a single battery configuration - there are 2-cell and 3-cell options. I have some battery packs on the way (2-cell and 3-cell 18650 packs), so that I can start to play with these options, but I believe other cell sizes are also possible. But a small number of case options, to suit the common configurations, is my aim, and I'll post the DWG/DXF files so others have a starting point from which to remix the design to suit their own purposes.

    I like your idea of a snap-on battery case, for when the SqueezeAMP is going to be used outside, presumably feeding a portable speaker - I'll give some thought to how that could work.

  10. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by chill View Post
    I like your idea of a snap-on battery case, for when the SqueezeAMP is going to be used outside, presumably feeding a portable speaker - I'll give some thought to how that could work.
    How about something using magnets to keep contact with the battery pack base? The battery connector on the board would need to be extended to some sort of isolated contact point (no one wants li-ion batteries to short circuit) between the two modules.

    But then again, if my SqueezeAmp was battery operated (which it isn't yet) I'd probably just want the battery to stay attached all the time. In that case, an "attachment" would be more like a module you bolt on and leave it there. Given the price point, I suspect it would be more appealing to buy multiple units than it would be to keep multiple accessories close by. Price point was actually one of my initial driving force of trying to port squeezelite to the esp32; being able to sync was second in the list.
    LMS 7.9 - 1xRadio, 1xBoom, 5xDuet,3xTouch, 1 SB2. Sony PlayStation, Emby, Chromecast v1 and v2 and...
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