Home of the Squeezebox™ & Transporter® network music players.
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16
  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    11,819
    Quote Originally Posted by swayzak View Post
    I have 2 Booms from way back - both in perfect working order (although rubbery front & top panel encrusted with dust which seems impossible to remove).
    Yep, mine are sticky. I have 3, one finally had its display go out (but otherwise worked). I'd say the "unstable" part is not fair. My booms have simply worked daily year after year with no intervention. I've had them since they came out, so that must be maybe 12 years or more?
    Home: VBA 4TB (2.5) or rPi4B/pCP6.0/4TB>LMS 7.9.3>Transporter, Touch, Boom, Radio (all ethernet)
    Cottage: VBA 3TB (2.4) or rPi4B/pCP6.0/4TB>LMS 7.9.1>Touch>Benchmark DAC I, Boom, Radio w/Battery (ethernet, Radio WIFI)
    Office: Win10(64)>LMS 7.9.3>Squeezelite
    The Wild: rPi3B+/pCP4.0, hifiberry Dac+Pro, 4TB USB (LMS & Squeezelite)
    Controllers: iPhone11 & iPadAir2 (iPeng), CONTROLLER, or SqueezePlay 7.8 on Win10(64)
    Files: ripping: dbpa > FLAC; post-rip: mp3tag, PerfectTunes; Streaming: Spotify

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    5,811
    Quote Originally Posted by garym View Post
    Yep, mine are sticky. I have 3, one finally had its display go out (but otherwise worked). I'd say the "unstable" part is not fair. My booms have simply worked daily year after year with no intervention. I've had them since they came out, so that must be maybe 12 years or more?
    BTW, the stickyness can be resolved using the method @chill described in a previous post
    LMS 7.7, 7.8 and 7.9 - 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB2. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, JBL OnBeat, XBoxOne, XBMC, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, , Pi B3, B2, Pi B+, 2xPi A+, Odroid-C1, Odroid-C2, Cubie2, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5

  3. #13
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Muenster, Germany
    Posts
    173
    I can't find the post but I have two methods to offer:


    1. put the front panel, the knob, and the keyboard matte into water heated up to 60░ C for ~10 to 15 minutes
      this removes all dust and the surface is way less sticky after drying. However, the material that disintegrates is still there and it will get sticky again later. It's a short term thing that I like to include in repairs. Just don't use anything but clear tap water, and do not scrub or anything. Water and heat alone do a very good job.
    2. remove the front panel's coating entirely with Isopropyl Alcohol and force - unfortunately, this will also remove the white imprints under the buttons but meh, the button icons say it all anyway
      the process is shown here (sorry, only available in German as of now): https://squeezebox-forum.de/viewtopi...riftung#p23706

    So basically in method #2 the front panel becomes half-transparent all over but as a black keyboard matte is behind it, it is hard to notice any difference. Backlight will only shine through the buttons like it used to. If a matte varnish is applied after cleaning, the surface looks quite appealing eventually. The keyboard matte should not have its coating removed, this would leave all buttons as white circles with no icons left. In most cases, the front panel coating is more critical than the one on the buttons.
    If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
    Oh, and I actually used the coating removal method first on the remote control of a Squeezebox Touch that had gotten sticky. This can also be found in the German forum link in the previous messages.

    Other than that, there could be worse problems after 12 years but that depends from unit to unit. Some just die overnight and nobody can explain what went bad and how it could be prevented. So stability (or rather, confidence) could be better. The longest-lasting Squeezebox model imho is the Transporter, the construction is just way higher quality than all the others (such is the price), but even it suffers from a power supply issue sooner or later. Can be cured for a few dollars though.
    Last edited by JoeMuc2009; 2019-12-17 at 06:42.


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts

  4. #14
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeMuc2009 View Post
    1. put the front panel, the knob, and the keyboard matte into water heated up to 60░ C for ~10 to 15 minutes
      this removes all dust and the surface is way less sticky after drying. However, the material that disintegrates is still there and it will get sticky again later. It's a short term thing that I like to include in repairs. Just don't use anything but clear tap water, and do not scrub or anything. Water and heat alone do a very good job.
    That sounds like a good tip. The method that Philippe referred to is to spray the parts with a rubberised clear lacquer (see this post onwards). One tricky part is getting it clean enough to paint, so I'm keen to give your method a try. I recently bought another Boom which needed a foam surround repair, and it also needs its sticky bits attending to. A job for the Christmas break.

  5. #15
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Muenster, Germany
    Posts
    173
    Wow, that looks awesome! Certainly better results than mine


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts

  6. #16
    Senior Member chill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeMuc2009 View Post
    Wow, that looks awesome! Certainly better results than mine
    Yesterday evening I tried your hot water trick on the faceplate and the knob of my latest Boom, and it's done a fantastic job of cleaning the faceplate. It's a perfect finish for spraying over. In fact, the rubberised spray paint is quite forgiving, and the underlying finish doesn't need to be perfect, but it does need to be clean, and the hot water has cleaned it very well.

    The finish on the knob, even after the hot water treatment, is very marked, so I think I'll still strip it back to shiny plastic with methylated spirits before painting.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •