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  1. #1
    Senior Member Club1820's Avatar
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    OH NO! I may have fried my SB3

    So I was checking the breakers in my house and I mistakenly switched off and on the Breaker that my SB3 was connected to. The SB3 was currently powered on and playing music when I switched the breaker. After this, the SB3 display was off and no more audio playing. I did the usual disconnect of power cord back on/off and nothing. tried to connect it to another outlet and then noticed the SB3 did have power as the red light in back was on.

    I then checked both iPeng controller and web interface and sure enough the SB3 was powered on, connected to my server and actually playing the tracks on the playlist. But just no display and no audio coming out when connected to the receiver.

    So, anyone else experience anything like this? Am I just out of luck on this? I've had this puppy for over ten years and hate to see it go.

    Thanks in advance for any insights or suggestions.
    Rotel RSP-1068, Rotel 1060 DVD, Rotel RCC-1055, Rotel 1095 Amp, Rotel 956 Amp, Rotel RLC-1040, M&K VX-860 Sub, Whatmough M30s, Squeezebox 3

    Rotel RX-1052, Rotel RCC-1055, Klipsch CF-1s, Audiosource Sub, Squeezebox 3

    Squeezebox "Bedroom" Boom, Controller
    http://www.last.fm/user/Club1820/

  2. #2
    Senior Member Club1820's Avatar
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    YES! but still .....

    WhooHooo! I took the unit to another setup I have in the basement. Connected the SB3 using those cables (both audio & PSU) and it worked! Display turned on and audio came out. So I can only assume its the actual original Power Supply Unit upstairs that is fried.

    So, .... where is the best place to get a replacement or can I use any ol' PSU that would have the same specs. I have plenty of power cords laying around the house for various outdated tech, - from old power calculators to PC External DVD drives, external Hard Drives etc.

    Thanks.
    Rotel RSP-1068, Rotel 1060 DVD, Rotel RCC-1055, Rotel 1095 Amp, Rotel 956 Amp, Rotel RLC-1040, M&K VX-860 Sub, Whatmough M30s, Squeezebox 3

    Rotel RX-1052, Rotel RCC-1055, Klipsch CF-1s, Audiosource Sub, Squeezebox 3

    Squeezebox "Bedroom" Boom, Controller
    http://www.last.fm/user/Club1820/

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Club1820 View Post
    WhooHooo! I took the unit to another setup I have in the basement. Connected the SB3 using those cables (both audio & PSU) and it worked! Display turned on and audio came out. So I can only assume its the actual original Power Supply Unit upstairs that is fried.

    So, .... where is the best place to get a replacement or can I use any ol' PSU that would have the same specs. I have plenty of power cords laying around the house for various outdated tech, - from old power calculators to PC External DVD drives, external Hard Drives etc.

    Thanks.
    You need 5V, at least 2A (more works as well of course) and 2.5mm jack (ground external)
    LMS 7.9 on Pi 3B+ & Odroid-C2 - SqueezeAMP!, 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB3. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, Squeezelite on Pi, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5, Riva 1 & 3

  4. #4
    Senior Member Club1820's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philippe_44 View Post
    You need 5V, at least 2A (more works as well of course) and 2.5mm jack (ground external)
    Thanks!

    Does it matter if its 100-240v? Most PSUs i've found on Amazon that supposedly work with Squeezebox are 100-240 v where as the original is 110-120v. this one listed below is also 18 v. Is that too much higher than the 5 v? Sorry, I don't know anything about PSUs/voltage etc.

    Thanks again!!!

    https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Sque...+power+adapter

    "Input: 100-240V 50-60Hz Output:18V 1A~1.5A DC "
    Rotel RSP-1068, Rotel 1060 DVD, Rotel RCC-1055, Rotel 1095 Amp, Rotel 956 Amp, Rotel RLC-1040, M&K VX-860 Sub, Whatmough M30s, Squeezebox 3

    Rotel RX-1052, Rotel RCC-1055, Klipsch CF-1s, Audiosource Sub, Squeezebox 3

    Squeezebox "Bedroom" Boom, Controller
    http://www.last.fm/user/Club1820/

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Club1820 View Post
    Thanks!

    Does it matter if its 100-240v? Most PSUs i've found on Amazon that supposedly work with Squeezebox are 100-240 v where as the original is 110-120v. this one listed below is also 18 v. Is that too much higher than the 5 v? Sorry, I don't know anything about PSUs/voltage etc.

    Thanks again!!!

    https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Sque...+power+adapter

    "Input: 100-240V 50-60Hz Output:18V 1A~1.5A DC "
    Be careful!!! it *must* be 5Volts output, no more, no less. The current can be anything *above* 2A. The input of these PSU is nowadays 100-240V, so anything including your country voltage works. So 100-240 basically means "works everywhere in the world". The rule basically is that the voltage is imposed by the PSU and the equipment drains the current it needs. So even if you use a 10A "capable" PSU and the equipment needs a 0.5A, then it will drain 0.5A. But if you force 18V on something that can only accept 5V, it will fry (there is more than that depending on the internal of equipment, but let's keep it here for now).

    The PSU you show is all wrong: 18V will kill the SB3 because it's way above 5V and the amperage is not enough (again, it's a bit more complicated, but anyway, don't try this one!)
    LMS 7.9 on Pi 3B+ & Odroid-C2 - SqueezeAMP!, 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB3. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, Squeezelite on Pi, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5, Riva 1 & 3

  6. #6
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    Strange how turning a breaking off and on would do that. I wonder if the outcome would have been the same if the power (lines) went off and on?

  7. #7
    Senior Member Club1820's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philippe_44 View Post
    Be careful!!! it *must* be 5Volts output, no more, no less. The current can be anything *above* 2A. The input of these PSU is nowadays 100-240V, so anything including your country voltage works. So 100-240 basically means "works everywhere in the world". The rule basically is that the voltage is imposed by the PSU and the equipment drains the current it needs. So even if you use a 10A "capable" PSU and the equipment needs a 0.5A, then it will drain 0.5A. But if you force 18V on something that can only accept 5V, it will fry (there is more than that depending on the internal of equipment, but let's keep it here for now).

    The PSU you show is all wrong: 18V will kill the SB3 because it's way above 5V and the amperage is not enough (again, it's a bit more complicated, but anyway, don't try this one!)
    Thanks for all the responses and assistance. To be safe, I gave up on making sure I got the right compatible PSU and found the original on EBay. Better safe than sorry.

    Thanks again!

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Logitech-Sq...72.m2749.l2649
    Rotel RSP-1068, Rotel 1060 DVD, Rotel RCC-1055, Rotel 1095 Amp, Rotel 956 Amp, Rotel RLC-1040, M&K VX-860 Sub, Whatmough M30s, Squeezebox 3

    Rotel RX-1052, Rotel RCC-1055, Klipsch CF-1s, Audiosource Sub, Squeezebox 3

    Squeezebox "Bedroom" Boom, Controller
    http://www.last.fm/user/Club1820/

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fizbin View Post
    Strange how turning a breaking off and on would do that. I wonder if the outcome would have been the same if the power (lines) went off and on?
    Thats everything else but strange...

    If you got some devices with big capacitors in that line and kick the breaker the capacitors from that device sends their power back to the powerlines.
    And theses breakers are not supposed to act like a switch - they should safe you not your devices.

    And that can bring a "10% faulty device to a 100% faulty device".

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJanGo View Post
    Thats everything else but strange...

    If you got some devices with big capacitors in that line and kick the breaker the capacitors from that device sends their power back to the powerlines.
    And theses breakers are not supposed to act like a switch - they should safe you not your devices.

    And that can bring a "10% faulty device to a 100% faulty device".
    If these big capacitors are on the DC side of a rectifier how would they send power back to the power lines? Wouldn't spikes from inductive components be more likely?

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Senior Member Jeff07971's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slartibartfast View Post
    If these big capacitors are on the DC side of a rectifier how would they send power back to the power lines? Wouldn't spikes from inductive components be more likely?

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
    This sounds like the Capacitor plague https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Or just capacitor wear out

    The main caps in a SMPSU are quite highly stressed and fail due to the above.
    If the power is left on the problem goes unoticed untill the power fails then the PSU will not start up (or blows the fuse or switching transistor)
    This has happened to me many times, one notable one was a stack of 4 Dell network switches all running fine untill a turn off for maintenance. All 4 switches failed to turn back on.
    I replaced the caps in the PSU's and all were fine again (and still are after another 5 years)

    Jeff
    Last edited by Jeff07971; 2018-12-04 at 04:51. Reason: typos

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