Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

[Beast Of Bodmin]

These Wi-Fi boards are harder to get. At eBay, I found two offerings which are both from China. Might be problematic but I'm not sure.
This the link to one of them: https://ebay.us/PdmjPl

...

Hope this helped a bit. Please keep us informed how your story goes on. Thanks!

Thanks for that!

I decided to risk USD 6.07 and ordered one of the boards you linked to. Should be here by March 7th

Meanwhile I will see if I can find a different PSU. Maybe even buy one!

[JoeMuc2009]

Should be here by March 7th

Seriously?

[Beast Of Bodmin]

Seriously?

Yep. The fastest delivery option was something like USD 35. I can wait...

[JoeMuc2009]

Yep. The fastest delivery option was something like USD 35. I can wait...

Yeah, it's likewise here. I could have sent you one but all shipping services have reduced their products to premium which means 35 USD is the new lowest limit for sending just anything except for pure paper letters. Bummer!
Anyway, I hope this sorts things out for you, once you got it!

[Beast Of Bodmin]

Yeah, it's likewise here. I could have sent you one but all shipping services have reduced their products to premium which means 35 USD is the new lowest limit for sending just anything except for pure paper letters. Bummer!
Anyway, I hope this sorts things out for you, once you got it!

I might be able to implement a workaround while I wait. I used tcpdump and it seems the unit has an IP address of 192.168.10.10 and is trying to talk to 192.168.10.1. So I think I need to set up a route at home and also run LMS and the CLI on 192.168.10.1:9000 :9090, etc. But I am hopeless at network routing.

Or move the home network from 192.168.1.0 to 192.168.10.0.

Cheers!

[philippe_44]

I might be able to implement a workaround while I wait. I used tcpdump and it seems the unit has an IP address of 192.168.10.10 and is trying to talk to 192.168.10.1. So I think I need to set up a route at home and also run LMS and the CLI on 192.168.10.1:9000 :9090, etc. But I am hopeless at network routing.

Or move the home network from 192.168.1.0 to 192.168.10.0.

Cheers!

Are you in NAM or EU?

[Beast Of Bodmin]

Are you in NAM or EU?

EEA (Switzerland)

[Beast Of Bodmin]

Happy New Year 2021 everybody!

Yeah, it's likewise here. I could have sent you one but all shipping services have reduced their products to premium which means 35 USD is the new lowest limit for sending just anything except for pure paper letters. Bummer!
Anyway, I hope this sorts things out for you, once you got it!

Good news: I received my new Wifi card already.

Bad news: I installed it and it is not recognised. Together with this and the apparently broken internal IR sensor, I am starting to think it is a PSU problem.

The problems with the unit started after I moved from UK to CH. I can't find the original UK PSU, so I can't remember if the problems happened using that PSU (with a plug converter) or if I was using the PSU I have now.

To check the PSU, I broke out my long-unused multimeter, which refused to turn on. I looked on the back of the unit and was surprised to see it needed batteries . I opened it up and swapped over the mildly corroded button batteries, which breathed some life into the tester. But it seems to be over reading voltage by a factor of 3 - 4, both for an eneloop (rated 1.2V) and for the PSU I have.

So my shopping list now is

2 x G13-A CNB (which seems to be some variant of LR44) (1.5V) - for the multimeter
1 x PSU 5V/ 2A o/p (linear?) - for the SB3

Checking www.conrad.ch...

[JoeMuc2009]

Hi there,

sorry, better forget about that multimeter test. A lot of people fall for this. If you measure the voltage of the unloaded PSU, you will probably find that it delivers 5V as it should. But that does not mean everything is all right. The problem is that a multimeter does not draw any current.
To measure it correctly you have to apply an electronic load, and measure the current and voltage simultaneously in that specific situation. A configurable battery tester such as I am demonstrating in my blog (https://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/...x-classic.html, approximately in the middle of the page) will create a defined amperage and show you what voltage is delivered under this load. It should not collapse below 4.8V at 2A. This can't be done by hooking up just a multimeter.
As these power supplies are dirt cheap nowadays, I would recommend you to just buy a new one. The original PSUs are practically all dead by now after 10-12 years of constant service so this investment is probably not in vain. Be careful about the polarity though, the inside connection is positive and the outside sleeve must be negative. You can choose one for more than 2 Ampères but be sure it's constant 5V DC and no other voltage. The barrel jack is 5.5mm outside and (typically) 2.1mm inside diameter. 2.35mm might also fit, I don't know about the 5.5/2.5mm variant though.
You can find tons of more info on this matter in the blog page mentioned above.

Cheers,
Joe

[Beast Of Bodmin]

You can find tons of more info on this matter in the blog page mentioned above.

I opened the blog page and search for VHBW. Their ebay page is onholiday until February(!).

I found the same thing on electropapa. Described as a replacement PSU for a Squeezebox Classic.

EUR 13.69 inc. P&P

Ordered one.

Let's see!

Cheers,
BoB