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  1. #1

    Squezzebox 3: power supply recommendation. other tips?

    Hello,

    i have had m y system appart for years... long story.
    Now that I am putting it back together I have found that I have no power supply for my Squeezebox 3. I need to buy one. Do you have any recommendations on what to buy ? I am sound conscious or I would not have posted in this subsection, but I don't want to spend over $50 at most.

    Are there any 3 rd party sofware or settings that might wring the last bit of sound quality out of my SB3 ?

    Thanks !

  2. #2
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    Another Tip

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    ronnie

    (no, seriously )

  3. #3
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    Ear wax

    Quote Originally Posted by Man in a van View Post
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    ronnie

    (no, seriously )
    Hi Ronnie!

    And when you've done the Otex trip, a nice hot soak in a whirlpool bath followed by a careful alignment of your head with the neck jets is a great way to do a DIY ear syringe (it's a lot gentler than getting some busy nurse to do it, lol... ).

    I have an Allsop lens cleaner with a number of sound check tests on it & I was pleasantly surprised to discover that I could still hear the highest note on the sweep test - it comes on immediately after the nice lady stops talking, so it's definitely the top one. It doesn't say exactly how high it is, but I would guess around 16kHz, it's a very high whistle. All the frequencies came out at the same subjective volume except a low one which was louder. I imagine that one hit the resonant frequency between my concrete floor & concrete ceiling about 8' above: so my next project is to make some stands for my subwoofers to decouple them from the floor! Btw, I'm 63 now & had expected my HF hearing to have gone the way of all flesh by now...

    Clean ears is definitely the way to go if you want clean sound!

    Dave

  4. #4
    Senior Member mooblie's Avatar
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    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0027CIZ38

    I doubt if buying anything more expensive will get you any more sound quality. In fact, I'd lay money on it.
    Martin at HeadSpin HD now on Blu-ray

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Senior Member iPhone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brjoon1021 View Post
    Hello,

    i have had m y system appart for years... long story.
    Now that I am putting it back together I have found that I have no power supply for my Squeezebox 3. I need to buy one. Do you have any recommendations on what to buy ? I am sound conscious or I would not have posted in this subsection, but I don't want to spend over $50 at most.

    Are there any 3 rd party sofware or settings that might wring the last bit of sound quality out of my SB3 ?

    Thanks !
    .
    Any low noise switching power supply with proper specs IE 5V DC regulated, Center positive, sleeve ground Connector: 2.5mm ID, 5.5mm OD, 11mm long Min supply rating: 1000mA. So as long as it outputs 5VDC with at least an Amp of current and is properly filtered (low noise) it will work just fine.

    The only thing better (and only slightly) is using a 6VDC battery with 10Ahr capacity or better which you would recharge over night after use (or as need be dependent on use). The slight advantage is it is absolutely clean DC power with no noise. Hence it is impossible to pass power supply or mains noise through to the SB3. I have a battery operated Pre-Amp that sounds just as good as a passive Pre-Amp but I doesn't lose the gain of an active Pre-Amp with the battery powered Pre-Amp. It has two batteries so one can be charging while the other is in use.
    .
    iPhone
    Media Room:
    ModWright Platinum Signature Transporter, VTL TL-6.5 Signature Pre-Amp, Ayre MX-R Mono's, VeraStarr 6.4SE 6-channel Amp, Vandersteen Speakers: Quatro Wood Mains, VCC-5 Reference Center, four VSM-1 Signatures, Video: Runco RS 900 CineWide AutoScope 2.35:1, Vandersteen V2W Subwoofer

    Living Room:
    Transporter, ADCOM GTP-870HD, Cinepro 3K6SE III Gold, Vandersteen Model 3A Signature, Two 2Wq subs, VCC-2, Two VSM-1

    Office: Touch with Vandersteen VSM-1s
    Kitchen: Touch in-wall mount w/ Thiel Powerpoint 1.2s
    Bedroom: Squeezebox BOOM
    Bathroom: Squeezebox Radio
    Around the House: SliMP3, SB1, SB2, SB3
    Ford Thunderbird: SB Touch, USB drive
    Ford Expedition: SB Touch, USB drive

  7. #7
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    Dc

    Quote Originally Posted by iPhone View Post
    .
    Any low noise switching power supply with proper specs IE 5V DC regulated, Center positive, sleeve ground Connector: 2.5mm ID, 5.5mm OD, 11mm long Min supply rating: 1000mA. So as long as it outputs 5VDC with at least an Amp of current and is properly filtered (low noise) it will work just fine.

    The only thing better (and only slightly) is using a 6VDC battery with 10Ahr capacity or better which you would recharge over night after use (or as need be dependent on use). The slight advantage is it is absolutely clean DC power with no noise. Hence it is impossible to pass power supply or mains noise through to the SB3. I have a battery operated Pre-Amp that sounds just as good as a passive Pre-Amp but I doesn't lose the gain of an active Pre-Amp with the battery powered Pre-Amp. It has two batteries so one can be charging while the other is in use.
    .
    Hi iPhone! (on a different thread, I'm still absorbing the Vandersteen links you sent me, lol... )

    I use a LiFePO4 rechargeable golf cart battery (24AHr, rated for 30A continuous, 90A peak) to power my Mytek Brooklyn external DAC which has a nominal 12V DC input - obviously you have to disconnect the mains AC input.

    The battery has 4 cells each with a nominal 3.2V output, so overall it supplies 12.8V nominal. But in fact any power supply in the 7-14V DC will suit the Mytek, it's the current capability rather than the voltage which is most important, for solid-state electronics at least. However, with that much current capability it is
    absolutely vital that you wire it up with the correct polarity!!

    I have failed to find a 2.5mm DC power plug rated at more than 5A, but the point of the high current capability is entirely to handle transients - the average current consumption of my Mytek at 12V (or so!) is well below 1A, so there is no real risk of melting a correctly connected plug: the consequence of getting the polarity the wrong way round around WOULD be a little more severe for my DAC. Rather than use a fiddly soldered plug, one can readily obtain 2.5mm DC power plugs from eBay with screw connectors & the +ve & -ve inputs clearly marked.

    My golf cart battery can be fully recharged in 6 hrs using the supplied trickle charger. I use an electronic timer to switch the charger off, & position the beastie under my kitchen extractor whilst it's charging overnight just in case, although it is a sealed unit & according to Wikipedia LiFePO4 batteries are the safest type of Lithium ion batteries.

    As you rightly say, you can't really beat native DC: & it cost less than half the price of the sexy mains-driven power supply that the dealer was very keen to sell me...

    Dave

  8. #8
    Senior Member Fahzz's Avatar
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    My problem with the cheap PSU's is the failure rate. I went through three of them in a year, and I finally decided to just take the Classic offline and went with a Pi device.

    When I was looking at options, I came across this, and people who seem to know what they are talking about were very high on it:

    https://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-ipower/

    The price is reasonable compared to others, and I know allegations about improved sound quality are debatable, but maybe it helps answer your question. I didn't buy one so I have no personal experience. Maybe others here do.
    Living Room: Pi3 w/Allo Digione Player (Wired), Max2Play w/LMS Server 7.9 and SqueezeLite
    Pioneer Elite VSX 80, KEF LS50's, Paradigm SE Center, SVS SB12-NSD Subwoofer, Paradigm Atom v.5 Surrounds
    Harmony Smart Control w/Hub
    Dining Room: KEF Q100's
    Anywhere Else As Needed: Logitech Boom
    Router: Asus RT-N56U

  9. #9
    Senior Member pablolie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fahzz View Post
    My problem with the cheap PSU's is the failure rate. ...
    Completely and totally agree. The stock PSU has utterly sucked in my experience. In my environment it quickly impairs remote operation. Hence I also bought an "improved liner" power supply, and been trouble free since.

    ...p
    ...pablo
    Server: Virtual Machine (on VMware Workstation 14 Pro) running Ubuntu 16.04 + LMS 7.9
    System: SB Touch -optical-> Benchmark DAC2HGC -AnalysisPlus Oval Copper XLR-> NAD M22 Power Amp -AnalysisPlus Black Mesh Oval-> Totem Element Fire
    Other Rooms: 2x SB Boom; 1x SB Radio; 1x SB Classic-> NAD D7050 -> Totem DreamCatcher + Velodyne Minivee Sub
    Computer audio: workstation -USB-> audioengine D1 -> Grado PS500e/Shure 1540

  10. #10
    Senior Member bakker_be's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fahzz View Post
    My problem with the cheap PSU's is the failure rate. I went through three of them in a year, and I finally decided to just take the Classic offline and went with a Pi device.

    When I was looking at options, I came across this, and people who seem to know what they are talking about were very high on it:

    https://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-ipower/

    The price is reasonable compared to others, and I know allegations about improved sound quality are debatable, but maybe it helps answer your question. I didn't buy one so I have no personal experience. Maybe others here do.
    Just FYI regardig ifi power supplies: https://audiosciencereview.com/forum...-streamer.577/
    Main System: Touch; Marantz SR-5004 + TMA Premium 905 + TMA Premium 901 + Teufel Ultima 20 Mk 2 + BK Monolith+ FF + Lenovo T460 + Kodi + Pioneer PDP-LX5090H
    Workshop: iPad 32GB Wifi + Squeezepad (local playback activated)
    Wherever needed: Acer Iconia Tab A700 + Squeezeplayer
    Kitchen: iPhone 5s + iPeng (local playback activated) + NAD 312 + Teufel Ultima 20 Mk 2
    Headphone (cozy corner): Lenovo T550 + Squeezelite-X + Cyrus Soundkey + Topping A30 + Focal Elear
    Car: TBC ...

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