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  1. #41
    Thanks phillipe. That would be really nice if you could get some Q2 measurements. Then maybe I can see if I need to order that part as well.

  2. #42
    The Q3 component is a thyristor. I replaced it, but still have no display.

    Given that I have a totally dead display, I'm not sure it's worth the effort to re-cap this board.

  3. #43
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Quote Originally Posted by beels View Post
    The Q3 component is a thyristor. I replaced it, but still have no display.

    Given that I have a totally dead display, I'm not sure it's worth the effort to re-cap this board.
    Don't put it in the bin. Per previous mails, you should contact Joe if you are in EU. If you are in NAM, I can give it a try, or I'll buy it for parts

    [edit]: I also have a spare motherboard that works, I can send it to you as well.
    Last edited by philippe_44; 2019-03-02 at 23:46.
    LMS 8.2 on Odroid-C4 - SqueezeAMP!, 5xRadio, 5xBoom, 2xDuet, 1xTouch, 1xSB3. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, Squeezelite on Pi, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5, RivaArena 1 & 3

  4. #44
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007


    Add me to the list of folks that swapped out caps C16 and C20, and can now use my player again (without buying an external DAC)! Thanks to all who posted before me, especially ralphy for the detailed instructions and excellent pictures, and majones, whose comment led me to this confidence-inspiring video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8N9O3a9jiM.

    This is the first time I have attempted a repair like this, and while my soldering was ugly, it got the job done!

  5. #45
    Senior Member Heuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Just resurrected my SB3 thanks to this thread. Relatively easy to do. I twisted off the caps (see this video for demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8N9O3a9jiM ) and soldered in a pair of Elna Silmic Audio capacitors bought off eBay seller 'closedcube' in the UK for ú5.46 including postage. Sound is now superb again! Many thanks.

  6. #46
    philippe_44 resurrected two of my sb3s by replacing all the caps. They had been constantly re-booting, even after I tried new power supplies, or removing the wi-fi board for direct ethernet connection.

    With the new caps, they are 100% reliable again. (I didn't have the soldering skills to do this job myself).
    Thank you philippe.

  7. #47
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Cross-posting a question here: the analog output of my Receiver has quit working. It looks like the Receiver analog output stage uses the same silver can caps as the SB3. Are they known to suffer the same type of failures?

  8. #48
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009

    One of two dead SqueezeBox 3 Logitech repaired

    thanks to this great forum thread, I was able to repair one of my two dead Logitech Squeezebox 3 by just removing the Wifi card.
    I'm wondering what could be done for the other.
    I see someone mentioning a thread to verify power at different location.
    I will go on in this direction.
    So cool to be able to repair more than 10 years after.
    Thanks Slimdevice ofr this great product and thanks to this forum for sharing precise information.

  9. #49
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    For Sb3 repair - If not already read, JoeMuc's blog is worth looking at

    and for capacitor specific
    Last edited by bpa; 2021-03-13 at 03:37.

  10. #50
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006

    C16 Replaced with 10uF NP cap worked great for me!

    I replaced my C16 wih a 10uF 16V Non-Polarised capacitor and it fixed the problem for me. Many thanks for the info!


    Quote Originally Posted by ralphy View Post
    Well, I finally replaced the C16 and C20 capacitors in my original slimdevices sb3, back when you could by them without the wireless card.

    I used aluminum electrolytic 10uF 16V caps, purchased from digikey.


    If I had not already ordered the caps, I would have ordered these non-polarity ones.

    Opening the sb3 is quite easy, you just need a Torx 10 (T10) screwdriver.


    Remove the 2 x T10 screws from the back and then remove the front face plate.

    With the face plate removed, unscrew the 4 x T10 screws from the front and slide out the "guts". It's one piece.

    I cut the capacitor leads down close to the size of the original surface mount caps.

    Attachment 20353
    Attachment 20354

    I attached the new caps with the same polarity as the original.

    I opened a 3 year newer logitech sb3 to see if logitech had switched the polarity of the caps, but they have not. They were the same as in my original sb3. If they fail again.....I'll try them the other way.


    Attachment 20355

    Original capactors removed.

    Attachment 20358

    New ones installed.

    Attachment 20357

    All back together now and both the analog out and headphone jack are working great!
    Hobby Electronicist
    Unix Fiddler

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