I think you're good. The Meanwell MPM-30-5ST has the right voltage and is well over the required amperage (the original has 5V / 2.3A, the meanwell delivers 5V / 6A). That's no problem at all, it might even last longer by being under-challenged.
I strongly advise against using anything that is not capable of delivering at least 2.3A. Placing a wall-wart PSU capable of 1A only is a call for trouble.
Do make sure though to connect the power supply, whatever it is, with the correct polarity. It *will* destroy the entire Transporter if reversed. So better check twice, don't hesitate to ask here if you are not sure what the polarity should be.
Good luck!
Regards,
Joe
Results 81 to 90 of 122
Thread: Need help for broken Transporter
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2019-04-26, 13:38 #81
PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!
Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts
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2019-04-26, 14:18 #82
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- Jan 2013
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Here's another alternative...
The nice thing about this one is it has the same connectors as the the original PSU. Although you have to be sure the cables plugging in to them are in the right direction.
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...745-ND/1766382
Last edited by Fizbin; 2019-04-26 at 14:21.
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2019-04-26, 15:08 #83
Sorry saw this late,
It will be absloutely fine I was just confused as you said you'd read my link but then ordered the MW not the OEM replacement that would bolt straight in.
The MW might be slightly less efficient (SMPSU's are generally less efficient when lightly loaded) but in this case effect wil be very small to non existant.
Jeff
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2019-04-26, 15:09 #84
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2019-04-26, 15:27 #85
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Main thing against the original is that the previous wall mount PSU has eliminated the original connectors so for the original PSU I also need the corresponding connectors. Must be available somewhere but where...
If the meanwell would be not ok I would order the original and find a way to purchase original connectors. For now I understand that the meanwell is ok.
And yes, I will double check the polaritySqueezeBoxes: 1x Transporter (Living room) 1x SB2 (shed), 1x Radio (Kitchen), 1x Boom (Dining room), 1x piCorePlayer (jacuzzi), 1x piCorePlayer (Garden) 1x OSMC + Squeezelite (Movie room), 1x Touch (Study 2), few spare unit's
Server: LMS on Pi3 7.9.1. on PcP 3.21
Network: AVM Fritzbox, Netgear Smart Switch 24p, 3x Ubiquity
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2019-04-26, 15:37 #86
You are wise to use the MW with its screw connectors in that case, getting the tooling for the connectors and the connectors is a major pain and costly more than twice the cost of the PSU !
As I said was just a little confused
The MW will be fine. I use the MW RS-15-5 PSU's (5V 3A) for all of my pCP installs and have not had any failiures.
Jeff
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2019-04-26, 15:50 #87
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Fixings as in the 4 and 2 pin sockets? Yes, I'm 99% sure they are the same. (Same markings CN1/CN2) but they are reversed on the Lambda. So the Transporter connectors have to be reversed as well. And one might have to break off those raised plastic pieces behind the sockets to do so.
The nice thing about this PSU is it has a higher rated operating temp. The original is max 40C. The Lambda is 70C. Although, it's entirely possible the Lambda could produce more heat. Hard to say.
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2019-04-26, 15:50 #88
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Thnx!
SqueezeBoxes: 1x Transporter (Living room) 1x SB2 (shed), 1x Radio (Kitchen), 1x Boom (Dining room), 1x piCorePlayer (jacuzzi), 1x piCorePlayer (Garden) 1x OSMC + Squeezelite (Movie room), 1x Touch (Study 2), few spare unit's
Server: LMS on Pi3 7.9.1. on PcP 3.21
Network: AVM Fritzbox, Netgear Smart Switch 24p, 3x Ubiquity
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2019-04-26, 15:52 #89
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Speaking of heat, I bet the Transporter (PSU included) would last a lot longer if Slimdevices had placed vents in the side(s) of the cases.
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2019-04-26, 16:16 #90