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  1. #61
    For starters, if weíre all having the same part failure, seems like not the best idea to use identical board unless there is some improvements. Many reports of a tiny smoked resistor (which looks to be the issue with mine too), so, Iím not totally confident on the design.

    I agree though it would be nice to have the same board fit into the screw holes. And 2.3amp is plenty of power given at full load my Transporter drew under 1.7a

    Then thereís the matter of a 8.5GBP device that I cannot get a price for shipping from UK to USA without registration, and itís likely to cost several times that of the PS itself to get it to Texas. From Amazon, I can probably get same day delivery on one that produces the same 5vDC regulated and would work just fine.

    What am I missing?

    Oh, and that we have an 8mo old baby so time is super precious, Iím definitely motivated to get this repaired and buttoned up and off my desk quickly. ;-)

  2. #62
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    I have just purchased 10pcs. No idea how long it will take until they are here but at almost 20 EUR shipping cost I should assume they are up to their name.
    How about 20 EUR (shipping included) for one forwarded to you?


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
    1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
    7x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
    7x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
    1x Transporter
    2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
    3x Touch (two waiting for repair)
    1x Radio

  3. #63
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    Recapped my old PSU

    Quote Originally Posted by JoeMuc2009 View Post
    Hi all,

    I repaired a Transporter in September 2016 that had display failure as described here -

    . . . but I think that the caps are the prime failure point because of their unfortunate placement. )

    My Transporter recently died as well with the same failed display PSU. Though this thing is cheap to replace through Rapid, the real issue here is absolute low-grade "jellybean" electrolytic capacitors they used in building these power supplies. Low-grade electrolytic capacitors will not last very long in almost any application. Rather than buying a new PSU from Rapid, which would had surely fixed the issue, I ended up re-capping my failed PSU with high-quality, high-reliability, electrolytic caps by Panasonic and Nichicon, like should have been installed in the first place. You can buy theses parts from Digi-Key or an other electronic-parts supplier for less than $5 US, and they can easily be installed using a small pencil-soldering iron, good-grade electronics solder, and some solder-wick. It not difficult to do . . . and if you don't know how to solder, there are many You-Tube videos the show you how. Best of luck to all!

    Parts I used are as follows:

    Digi-Key P/N``````Mfg P/N````````````Disc.

    493-6894-ND`````UCY2W220MHD``````CAP ALUM 22UF 20% 450V RADIAL
    P15367CT-ND`````EEU-FR1E681LB`````CAP ALUM 680UF 20% 25V RADIAL
    1189-1069-ND````10YXJ470M6.3X11```CAP ALUM 470UF 20% 10V RADIAL
    P13478-ND```````EEU-EB1H100S``````CAP ALUM 10UF 20% 50V RADIAL
    Last edited by Forrest; 2018-02-13 at 22:55.
    Digital: Transporter > DEQX HDP-Express (3-way digital corssover/speaker correction)> bi-amped Apogee Duetta Signatures (Graz MRTs) powered by (2X)rebuilt Threshold Staisis 2 amps / pair of stereo Rythmik/GR Research servo subs.

    Vinyl: VPI HW19 MkIV/SDS/SAMA/Tenderfoot suspension/Eminent Tech ET2/AT33PTG/Jeff Rowland Consonance preamp w/phono.

  4. #64
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forrest View Post
    My Transporter recently died as well with the same failed display PSU. Though this thing is cheap to replace through Rapid, the real issue here is absolute low-grade "jellybean" electrolytic capacitors they used in building these power supplies. Low-grade electrolytic capacitors will not last very long in almost any application. Rather than buying a new PSU from Rapid, which would had surely fixed the issue, I ended up re-capping my failed PSU with high-quality, high-reliability, electrolytic caps by Panasonic and Nichicon, like should have been installed in the first place. You can buy thess parts from Digi-Key or an other electronic parts supplier for less than $5 US, and they can easily be installed using a small pencil-soldering iron, good-grade electronics solder, and some solder-wick. It not difficult to do, but if you don't know how to solder, there are many You-Tube videos the show you how. Best of luck to all!
    I totally agree. Buying a new power supply is wasteful as long as it just failed due to some capacitors. Like in the three Transporters I had here for repair. It's a shame to toss a module that has two or three failed out of more than 20 components, and spare parts are really cheap, even the good ones. No need to put audio quality caps here, eventually this is just about the display power source.
    But the quality of the capacitors is just half the story. The other is (imho) that they should be further away from the heat sources on the PCB. That's why I mount new capacitors with the full length of their legs (isolated of course) and glue them down to the Transporter's bottom shell. Even crappy quality capacitors will live much longer this way.
    However, not everybody has the tools and skills and courage to do this. If doing the soldering is too hard, and nobody is available to do it, but tools are at least sufficient to replace the PCB with a new one, that's an excuse.

    I am thinking of selling a few modified PSU boards, brand new but equipped with quality capacitors (Panasonic or similar) right from the start. PN me if you are interested.


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
    1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
    7x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
    7x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
    1x Transporter
    2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
    3x Touch (two waiting for repair)
    1x Radio

  5. #65
    Now your talking! :-) That will be a project for the future, but wanted to post this here as I found it also incredibly informative. This guy does the same re-cap job with lots of excellent details. I just wish i had the time to do it now. "someday". http://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2...er-repair.html

  6. #66
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluebeeryale View Post
    Now your talking! :-) That will be a project for the future, but wanted to post this here as I found it also incredibly informative. This guy does the same re-cap job with lots of excellent details. I just wish i had the time to do it now. "someday". http://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2...er-repair.html
    Yeah, that's me


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
    1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
    7x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
    7x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
    1x Transporter
    2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
    3x Touch (two waiting for repair)
    1x Radio

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeMuc2009 View Post
    Yeah, that's me
    Well... first, a huge thank you!

    And secondly, I'm tentatively scheduled to be in Munich (and then on to Berlin) at the end of March. I'll PM you if it solidifies so I can buy you a beer and shake your hand!

  8. #68
    Senior Member
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    Jan 2013
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    366
    Quote Originally Posted by bluebeeryale View Post
    For starters, if weíre all having the same part failure, seems like not the best idea to use identical board unless there is some improvements. Many reports of a tiny smoked resistor (which looks to be the issue with mine too), so, Iím not totally confident on the design.

    I agree though it would be nice to have the same board fit into the screw holes. And 2.3amp is plenty of power given at full load my Transporter drew under 1.7a

    Then thereís the matter of a 8.5GBP device that I cannot get a price for shipping from UK to USA without registration, and itís likely to cost several times that of the PS itself to get it to Texas. From Amazon, I can probably get same day delivery on one that produces the same 5vDC regulated and would work just fine.

    What am I missing?

    Oh, and that we have an 8mo old baby so time is super precious, Iím definitely motivated to get this repaired and buttoned up and off my desk quickly. ;-)
    The board lasts roughly 6 to 10 years. I don't think anyone here has had a failure less than 6 years. As for cost, yes it is pricey. IMO, I'd either fix it or buy the original. Who knows what another design is or isn't going to do.

  9. #69
    Senior Member Brian Ritchie's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
    Location
    Oxford, UK
    Posts
    407

    Another Transporter resurrected thanks to this thread!

    My Transporter (bought from ripcaster in the UK almost 10 years ago) stopped working at the end of October last year. The failure was quite rapid: one day, the display stopped working; the next, I noticed a strange ticking noise coming from the hifi (not in use). It turned out to be coming from the T's force wheel; and when I hit the Power button, the T. clunked a few times, then went back to ticking. No display; no network presence.

    I did some research into getting it repaired, but everything I found suggested it wasn't going to be recoverable. I started to consider other audiophile streamers, but didn't get very far due to other commitments. Maybe I'd go listen to some demos early next year. Meanwhile, I used a Duet to feed into my amp's DAC, and was happy enough with that while life moved on. Then last weekend, I finally decided I'd open up the T. and have a look to see if there were any obvious failures (not that I'd necessarily spot anything), and maybe ask a friendly electronics engineer for help. But first, a few more googles - and found this thread. (I have no idea how I managed to miss it previously.)

    Some of the failure symptoms matched mine quite closely. I opened the T up, and looked at the PSU, but couldn't see any obvious visible indications of failure. But since a replacement board was less than UKP 9, I decided it was worth a try. So I ordered a board from rapidonline (*so* happy that the link was still valid!) - with tax and postage it came to UKP 15. That was on Sunday; the board arrived on Tuesday (I stayed at home for it, but the postman just put it through the letterbox). Some of the screws (both on the case and the board) were a bit tight (and I did have to borrow a 1/16" allen key, and buy a set of torq screwdrivers), but other than that, replacement was straightforward.

    When I powered it up, and the good old logo appeared, I was delighted! But then it seemed to insist that I create or log into my squeezebox.com account, which I hadn't used in years, and my password wasn't accepted... somehow, eventually it connected to my server. I turned it off again, and put the lid back on ...the wrong way round, initially ("why won't these screwholes line up?")

    Since then, bliss. I had forgotten how good it sounded. Having a great time listening to purchases from the last 6 months properly (and a hard time choosing which one to listen to next; and even harder time pulling myself away to do chores, sleep, etc.)

    So many thanks to the contributors to this thread!

    I've kept the old board; maybe I'll ask a friend to replace the capacitors (I haven't wielded a soldering iron in decades!)

    Cheers,
    Brian

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