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  1. #121
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    Thank you so much for this fantastic thread! My Transporter was sleeping for 2 years and came back to life in an instant after replacing the internal PSU. Love it!

  2. #122
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Cool, it's the best reward to find that others can use the info presented. Happy listening!


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts

  3. #123
    Senior Member
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    Aug 2010
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    Own a couple of Transporters bought recently. Don’t have these issues but decided to buy a few of these just in case.

    Great thread to stumble across.

    I suspect some believe if the screen has died it’s an expensive screen replacement and not just a £10 circuit board.

  4. #124
    Senior Member
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    Mar 2006
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    another one saved

    Replaced both 680µF 10 V caps and the Transporter is up and running again. Cost was 60 Eurocent!

  5. #125
    I've had mine (Modwright Transporter) for over ten years now. Would it make sense to prophylactically replace those caps? If so, would I keep the same values or upgrade them?

  6. #126
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewhess View Post
    I've had mine (Modwright Transporter) for over ten years now. Would it make sense to prophylactically replace those caps? If so, would I keep the same values or upgrade them?
    Hi Andrew,

    certainly makes sense to replace them. The voltage rating should be at least 10V but there is no harm done if you choose one that would tolerate 16 or even 25V. Eventually, 5V is what they constantly need to handle, but a bit more margin would not hurt. Higher voltage ratings mean bigger size though.
    The capacitors are connected in parallel so their combined capacity adds up to 1360µF. A discharged electrolytic capacitor has a low resistance at first which causes some load on the other components. The higher the capacity, the longer this low resistance stands (as charging it up takes longer). So don't use crazy values like 10000µF even though these are available. The circuit is just not designed for it.
    There's a third value to keep in mind which is the temperature rating. As far as I know there is 85°C and 105°C, that's the maximum allowable ambient temperatures they can stand. The higher the safer, but again, higher tolerance might end in a larger size.
    Be aware that you need to mind the correct polarity of the capacitors. Putting them in reverse might blow them up, or at least cause them to fail quickly.
    Choosing two new 680µF, or a single one having 10V/1500µF is reasonable. I would definitely not recommend to go beyond 2200µF, it might damage other parts of the power supply board. If you can, let the new capacitors stand further away from the board as there is a diode near their home position that gets very hot during operation, and heat has them age quicker. Here is an example of a ModWright Transporter that I did a maintenance run on recently. Not pretty but efficient:

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    This power supply will last way longer than the original setup, I'm sure.

    I was actually a bit disappointed by the mess they made when they modified the Transporter. The display flat flex connector on the front panel board was falling apart because it was not handled properly, and the connector for one of the main power rails (set of two purple wires between the toroid and the MW board) was burning up internally due to bad contact. The way the 5V power supply is pushed aside to make room for the overkill toroidal transformer did not appear very safe. Wiring between the MW board and the analog part of the Transporter mainboard was a mess, too. But anyway, after fixing it all, the owner confirmed the sound is positively worlds apart from the stock Transporter audio quality. So apparently it's worth it.

    Good success on your repair!

    Cheers,
    Joe


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts

  7. #127
    Sounds good. I'll put it on my list. Thanks!

    What's the value of the cap on the left? So, just those three caps, yes?

  8. #128
    Senior Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Right. the big cap on the left is working on the primary side and is rated 22uF 400V (uF is for microfarads)


    Gesendet von meinem STK-LX1 mit Tapatalk


    PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

    Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts

  9. #129
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by asainzp View Post
    Hello, I have a broken SB3 and I am trying to contact you for repair, but I cannot send PM, as I am a new user maybe I dont have enough privileges. I have also sent you an email to the address you mention in your blog.

    Thank you in advance!
    If you make a few more posts PMs will become available. Not sure how many but at least 3 and less than 5.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  10. #130
    Junior Member
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    Feb 2020
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    Been reading up on the Transporter power supply topic with great interest - thanks to everyone for all the good info over the last few years.

    My own Transporter throws a lot of noise which impacts AM radio throughout my house. I moved last fall and didn't notice this occurring at my last place so I believe the Transporter has developed this problem recently. Wondering if this is an early sign of caps failing on the power supply. Has anyone noticed this or can anyone comment if their Transporter causes this same interference? I did have issues with mine getting running after the move and ended up doing a full reset of it (xilinx; try regular reset first which didn't help). It didn't want to connect to WIFI even though it was the same WIFI router/name, etc. as before the move. It has been ok since other than the AM noise.

    In my case - I have the Transporter in a rack below a Denon tuner. With the Transporter plugged into power there is noise across the entire AM band. Unplug the Transporter and it goes away. I have other nearby devices - XBOX One, cable DVR box, TV, etc. and no noise from them. With the Transporter plugged in again, I then try my tube based 1950's/60's table radio in the kitchen and same AM noise which goes away with Transporter unplugged. Pretty sure the noise is going thru the power lines as I haven't noticed the problem with battery powered radios.

    If no one has info on this I'll likely just try to recap the power supply and see if it fixes it.
    Last edited by spt87a; 2022-03-21 at 09:15.

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