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Here's a set up destined for my office.
Raspberry Pi B running piCorePlayer 1.19 with a HiFiBerry DAC. The Amplifier is an Amptastic Mini-1. Speakers are QAcoustics 3010 bookshelf speakers.
As an alternative to the Pi, I can use iPeng on an iPad via an iPhone dock. The Amptastic Mini-1 is a neat little amp with a footprint smaller than a CD case.
The case used for the Pi is a budget case that I drilled to fit the RCA sockets connected to the HiFiBerry DAC.
Home: Raspberry Pi 4/pCP7.0/LMS8.1.2/Material with files on QNAP TS-251A
Touch > DacMagic 100 > Naim Audio Nait 3 > Mission 752 (plus Rega Planar 3 > Rega Fono Mini; Naim CD3)
2 x Squeezebox Radios, 1 X Squeezebox 3 (retired), 1 x SqueezeAMP
Office: LMS8.0.0 running on Raspberry Pi3; Raspberry Pi 3 player with touchscreen/piCorePlayer/IQaudIO DAC and Amp
Portable: Raspberry Pi 3B/pCP7.0.1/LMS8.1.2/Material, files on Seagate portable drive, powered via power brick
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Raspberry pi B+ with a HiFiBerry DAC+, stood on it's side, the wires drop through a hole in the bookcase shelf (centre, behind the black cat).
Speakers are AVI DM5 actives (superb) - controlled by Squeeze Control on an Android phone/tablet.Server - LMS 8.4.0 RPi4B 4GB/NanoSound ONE case/pCP 8.1.0 - 75K library, playlists & LMS cache on Sata SSD (ntfs)
Lounge - DAC32 - AudioEngine B2
Office - RPi 3B+/HiFiBerry DAC HAT/RPi screen - Edifier D12
Bedroom - Echo Show 8
Spares - 1xSB Touch, 1xSB3, 4xRPi, AVI DM5 speakers
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sigpic
Want a webapp ? Get SqueezeLite-X ! https://forums.slimdevices.com/showt...l=1#post903953
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Originally posted by Grumpy Bob View PostHere's a set up destined for my office.
Raspberry Pi B running piCorePlayer 1.19 with a HiFiBerry DAC. The Amplifier is an Amptastic Mini-1. Speakers are QAcoustics 3010 bookshelf speakers.
As an alternative to the Pi, I can use iPeng on an iPad via an iPhone dock. The Amptastic Mini-1 is a neat little amp with a footprint smaller than a CD case.
The case used for the Pi is a budget case that I drilled to fit the RCA sockets connected to the HiFiBerry DAC.
[ATTACH]17817[/ATTACH]
Works very well, and independent of my work wifi network.
RobertHome: Raspberry Pi 4/pCP7.0/LMS8.1.2/Material with files on QNAP TS-251A
Touch > DacMagic 100 > Naim Audio Nait 3 > Mission 752 (plus Rega Planar 3 > Rega Fono Mini; Naim CD3)
2 x Squeezebox Radios, 1 X Squeezebox 3 (retired), 1 x SqueezeAMP
Office: LMS8.0.0 running on Raspberry Pi3; Raspberry Pi 3 player with touchscreen/piCorePlayer/IQaudIO DAC and Amp
Portable: Raspberry Pi 3B/pCP7.0.1/LMS8.1.2/Material, files on Seagate portable drive, powered via power brick
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Inspired by the RaspTouch project I decide to prototype a similar case for one of my RPI's. I have been toying with a similar construction for quite some time but my mind couldn't agree on a solution to fix the display. The above project shed some new light on that; solutions are sometimes so very simply that they get overlooked
This is the current state of the prototype:
The display is angled at 10 degrees. I used a Hammond Enclosure I had used for another project. The enclosure has been cut to fit the desired dimensions (and angle).
There is still room besides the RPI to install an SPDIF hat. I re-used a part of the bezel of the original RPI display stand.
The display is now actually mounted upside down but it is rotated in the configuration. By rotating the display I finally could address the "fixing issue" I had. The flat cable is not sitting on the bottom side of the enclosure; this is way it is hidden.
All connectors are now available at the back side of the enclosure. This has been my main concern with the display cases currently on the market.Yamaha A-S3000 (sliver) -> Focal Electra 1028 Be
1 x SB Boom, 1 x SB Radio, 1 x SB Touch and 2 x RPI 2B
1 x SB3 and 1 x SB Touch in storage
ReadyNAS NVX for storage
piCorePlayer on RPI 4B as LMS server
iPeng on iPhone, SqueezePad & iPeng on iPad, Material Skin
http://www.last.fm/user/phibon
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Originally posted by Pascal Hibon View PostInspired by the RaspTouch project I decide to prototype a similar case for one of my RPI's. I have been toying with a similar construction for quite some time but my mind couldn't agree on a solution to fix the display. The above project shed some new light on that; solutions are sometimes so very simply that they get overlooked
...
The display is angled at 10 degrees. I used a Hammond Enclosure I had used for another project. The enclosure has been cut to fit the desired dimensions (and angle).
There is still room besides the RPI to install an SPDIF hat. I re-used a part of the bezel of the original RPI display stand.
The display is now actually mounted upside down but it is rotated in the configuration. By rotating the display I finally could address the "fixing issue" I had. The flat cable is not sitting on the bottom side of the enclosure; this is way it is hidden.
All connectors are now available at the back side of the enclosure. This has been my main concern with the display cases currently on the market.
Nice! Interesting solution for people who find the Audiophonics solution too expensive or the angle of the display too steep.
FYI the display is now the right way up; all earlier display stands mounted the display upside-down. This should improve the vertical viewing angle of the display according to several sources (see this link)
Arie
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Originally posted by kolossos4730 View PostPascal,
Nice! Interesting solution for people who find the Audiophonics solution too expensive or the angle of the display too steep.
FYI the display is now the right way up; all earlier display stands mounted the display upside-down. This should improve the vertical viewing angle of the display according to several sources (see this link)
ArieYamaha A-S3000 (sliver) -> Focal Electra 1028 Be
1 x SB Boom, 1 x SB Radio, 1 x SB Touch and 2 x RPI 2B
1 x SB3 and 1 x SB Touch in storage
ReadyNAS NVX for storage
piCorePlayer on RPI 4B as LMS server
iPeng on iPhone, SqueezePad & iPeng on iPad, Material Skin
http://www.last.fm/user/phibon
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Originally posted by Pascal Hibon View PostInspired by the RaspTouch project I decide to prototype a similar case for one of my RPI's. I have been toying with a similar construction for quite some time but my mind couldn't agree on a solution to fix the display. The above project shed some new light on that; solutions are sometimes so very simply that they get overlooked
This is the current state of the prototype:
[ATTACH]20791[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]20792[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]20793[/ATTACH]
The display is angled at 10 degrees. I used a Hammond Enclosure I had used for another project. The enclosure has been cut to fit the desired dimensions (and angle).
There is still room besides the RPI to install an SPDIF hat. I re-used a part of the bezel of the original RPI display stand.
The display is now actually mounted upside down but it is rotated in the configuration. By rotating the display I finally could address the "fixing issue" I had. The flat cable is not sitting on the bottom side of the enclosure; this is way it is hidden.
All connectors are now available at the back side of the enclosure. This has been my main concern with the display cases currently on the market.
This is just fanstastic! It looks great. Now I really want it as well
I am so tempted to get a new display (I have got the first model with no brightness control) and build such a nice system with one of my spare RPis!
Arie,
BTW your VU meter was the main reason to purchase the displayExcellent job!
PS. Pascal, just out of curiosity which sort of DIY tool did you use to cut the case?Last edited by albertone74; 2016-08-18, 09:41.
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Originally posted by albertone74 View PostHi Pascal,
This is just fanstastic! It looks great. Now I really want it as well
I am so tempted to get a new display (I have got the first model with no brightness control) and build such a nice system with one of my spare RPis!
Arie,
BTW your VU meter was the main reason to purchase the displayExcellent job!
PS. Pascal, just out of curiosity which sort of DIY tool did you use to cut the case?
I used a tenon-saw like this one:
I have a blade to cut aluminium.
The angle is about 10 degrees.
Since a couple of weeks I have an spdif board fitted as well. I now need to finish the back panel. I'll post some pics when I get the chance.Yamaha A-S3000 (sliver) -> Focal Electra 1028 Be
1 x SB Boom, 1 x SB Radio, 1 x SB Touch and 2 x RPI 2B
1 x SB3 and 1 x SB Touch in storage
ReadyNAS NVX for storage
piCorePlayer on RPI 4B as LMS server
iPeng on iPhone, SqueezePad & iPeng on iPad, Material Skin
http://www.last.fm/user/phibon
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Originally posted by Pascal Hibon View PostThank you Alberto!
I used a tenon-saw like this one:
I have a blade to cut aluminium.
The angle is about 10 degrees.
Since a couple of weeks I have an spdif board fitted as well. I now need to finish the back panel. I'll post some pics when I get the chance.
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I've build another one for a friend. This time I used a black Hammond enclosure and used a 15 degree angle on the display (instead of 10 degrees). I like this one better...
And this is the back side. This player is fitted with an IQaudio analog DAC.
The black smudges around the the USB and Ethernet connectors is cause by a black marker. I wanted to hide the aluminium color by coloring them black but the paper (used for the back panel) sucked up some of the marker's ink. It's a pity this happend... but otherwise happy with the result.
EDIT: below a picture of the guts:
Last edited by Pascal Hibon; 2016-12-18, 16:25.Yamaha A-S3000 (sliver) -> Focal Electra 1028 Be
1 x SB Boom, 1 x SB Radio, 1 x SB Touch and 2 x RPI 2B
1 x SB3 and 1 x SB Touch in storage
ReadyNAS NVX for storage
piCorePlayer on RPI 4B as LMS server
iPeng on iPhone, SqueezePad & iPeng on iPad, Material Skin
http://www.last.fm/user/phibon
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Originally posted by Pascal Hibon View PostI've build another one for a friend. This time I used a black Hammond enclosure and used a 15 degree angle on the display (instead of 10 degrees). I like this one better...
[ATTACH]21724[/ATTACH]
And this is the back side. This player is fitted with an IQaudio analog DAC.
[ATTACH]21725[/ATTACH]
The black smudges around the the USB and Ethernet connectors is cause by a black marker. I wanted to hide the aluminium color by coloring them black but the paper (used for the back panel) sucked up some of the marker's ink. It's a pity this happend... but otherwise happy with the result.
EDIT: below a picture of the guts:
[ATTACH]21726[/ATTACH]
That looks great. Very nice and neat job! I love it!
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