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Hi, from what I can remember, vol down, +, up ^,east >, and a couple of the numbers not working. There appears to be v small tarnished spots here and there on the traces. It hasn't worked for a couple of years.
Thanks for the picture, you can test, and maybe fix if the traces are indeed bad. So, for example, in this area:
A,B,C are "vias" where the circuit runs from a ring on one side to a ring on the other side, the hole is plated with a conductive material. So, you can take your multimeter on continuity (ohms), and test between A and B, then A and C.
If the trace test continuous, then the traces are ok. You could then test the via by testing continuity on one side of A, B, to the same points on the other side.
If the trace test open (bad), first make sure that your meter is in the ring, not on crud, use a pencil eraser, light scrape with an x-acto knife, or some electroics solvent like deoxit to make sure you have good contact. If still bad, you might be able to repair the trace with a steady hand.
To repair the trace in the past I have used "wire wrap wire" (30 gauge, single strand, insulated). Solder to one point, then cut to the exact length and solder t the other point. Because you are on the back side of the pcb, you will not interfere with the silicone pad, so you should be ok.
Hi, from what I can remember, vol down, +, up ^,east >, and a couple of the numbers not working. There appears to be v small tarnished spots here and there on the traces. It hasn't worked for a couple of years.
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Some of the traces on the other side of the pcb appear to be rotted out in very small sections, enough to open some of the circuits. Hope this is useful.
Thanks for sharing. Interesting. If you have it still open and haven't tossed it, can you share a picture? If it's not to many, and as you say on the non contact side, traces can sometimes be repaired.
Just thought I'd add a bit to the thread, some of the buttons on my old 'sticky' remote for the touch don't work and have tried all the patented remedies, washing and cleaning etc without success. What I did find useful was that with the top casing and rubber button mat removed (batteries back in) I could use an al-foil wrapped cotton bud to test the pcb contacts one by one in front of the phone camera, this method showed that the pcb was faulty not the contact mat. Some of the traces on the other side of the pcb appear to be rotted out in very small sections, enough to open some of the circuits. Hope this is useful.
LOGITECH replacement remote control DOES NOT NEED CODES. Pro M / N: X-RC4, M / N: X-IA4, Squeezebox BOOM, Squeezebox CLASSIC, Squeezebox TOUCH
12.5 euros, from Czech Republic.
BTW, I've got a lot of SB kit, including original and replacement remotes for SB2, Radio, Touch - I've now lost track of which remote originally went with which device. Anyone know of a guide / chart?
Lots of great tips from Redrum and sqmlaw. Thanks.
I have already neatly encased in a ziplock bag, the remote Redrum was kind enough to sent me.
Now to go look at Fire tablets.
With the knowledge and tech improvements of the intervening years, one can get very creative about keeping this venerable old platform up and running well today, and having it do things it may not have even been intended for.
We still have 10 SB clients in operation here, from Radios to Transporters. And I may have mentioned here in the past that we even run a Touch in an outbuilding over 75 feet away from the main structure. Connected by long-range wireless to a Wi-Fi 6 network via an N wireless media bridge, we run it with a little Radio remote (yes, in a little plastic bag). And that little remote, being magnetic, sits on an electrical nail plate conveniently tacked to a nearby stud. And every 3-4 years, I replace the little lithium button cell in it. It does just about everything the full size remotes can do.
But most of the time, I’ll just run it from my cell phone as I move around outside, as it projects nice quality 96/24 music through a powered event speaker way out into the nearby woods, hundreds of feet away from the LMS machine feeding it.
These are product applications that the original designers probably could only fantasize about in 2004 or 2005. But it does it, and does it well.
For an illuminated SB remote, you can press any button to light it up. Tapping the bottom left button in the dark (now playing) wakes the illumination, and also a sleeping VFD display if so setup.
You didn't think my question was serious?
Anyway, picture below of the 2 SB remotes, the one on the left is the original from my Slim Devices SB3, the one on the right is the lighty-uppy one. Both 16 years old and near perfect still. Not like those SB Touch remotes, that rubber coating should be banned, not fit for purpose.
sgmlaw , real clever idea with the zip locks. I wonder how one of those vacuum sealers might work, and trim the excess?
Here is what I do, I buy cheap, refurbished, Amazon Fire tablets from woot!, and do this (below). I have many of them laying around, and find that I reach for them first. Much easier to navigate via material on a tablet for me.
phred since you are in the US they are available to you. I really like the 8" ($20USD) for the size. I convert them from and Fire to android like, load the material apk and have one laying around in every room where I might be listening. I also bought sb Player and have it loaded, so if I. say, want to listen to music or a podcast when the house is sleeping. Buy it once, load it on all your devices. I take it step farther and add a few apps, browser, weather, maybe my email, etc.
Most of the time the "refurbished" come in at least looking like brand new. I have never seen any wear. A couple times they came from amazon in amazon packaging, so I suspected they were just liquidating amazon inventory through woot!
If you decide, read the thread. The key is to get an older one (older OS) and when you start to set it up, do not turn on network access (otherwise it might update). Then run through the fire toolbox process. They are very helpful over there (XDA developers) too.
One last little note, the older gen tablets use micro usb, not USB-C to charge. A minor issue, I just have USB-C to micro adaptors laying around too.
I've just now had to input my new SSID and password on a SB Classic, needs an IR remote to do that.
Also, I have an illuminated SB IR remote, not from a Transporter, I think I purchased it from a company called Ripcaster many years ago, anyone remember them?
Conundrum with an IR remote that lights up - which button do you press to get it to light up to see which button you're pressing?
Except this is the Touch sub-forum, and that’s what the OP was talking about. Yes, a remote is needed on a Classic to set one up.
For an illuminated SB remote, you can press any button to light it up. Tapping the bottom left button in the dark (now playing) wakes the illumination, and also a sleeping VFD display if so setup.
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