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    Apologies if this has already been answered 100 times, but can the Radio knobs be pulled off for this kind of cleaning/treatment? The stickiness drives me crazy. Over the years I've had phones (remember the Palm Centro?—certain colors had the issue and would also develop black spots of what appeared to be mold), scissors, knives and other products that developed this stickiness after a few years. I hope I live to see the day when these plastics that become sticky are no longer used in manufacturing—assuming they are still being used.

    Comment


      Hey there,

      aere's another method for cleaning any of the parts that have the sticky coating (SB Touch remote, Radio knob, Boom front panel, button mat, knob):

      I have experimented quite a bit and found that solvents are causing a lot of unwanted damage. Parts may be deformed, and far more than just the coating is removed. So I have tried with warm water to immerse all parts into. Keep the water around 60°C (or 50°C for the Touch remote) and let it sit for half an hour. Regularly go and check whether temperature is still in range, and also to see if anything changes in the parts. You will find that the coating turns white in the places it was sticky before. The heat softens the coating so it can be scrubbed off eventually without doing too much damage to layers underneath. Some care is needed of course. Cleaning the Touch remote this way needs a lot of attention regarding the temperature as the plastic is so thin that it can deform so much that it won't come together again. Therefore, 50°C is more advisable if you are just cleaning the remote.

      Once the heating procedure is complete, get the parts out and get to work right away, using the remaining heat which helps in the cleanup.
      Cleaning the knobs is the easiest thing and there is not much to explain about that.
      It is a bit more difficult with the Boom parts due to their many edges and corners. The button channels in the front panel are coated on their inside, too, and this coating should be completely scraped off to ensure that buttons will be easy to push and will just as easily come back out into their idle position. I'm using the hard side of a dish sponge for this task, just push a corner of its hard side into each hole and turn around a few times, pushing outside towards the channel walls.
      The buttons themselves have coating on their outside edges, too, which should be removed the same way. Just be careful not to remove too much of the coating on each button face. There is a black masking layer on top of each button, with the symbols being left out of the mask, and if you damage the masking layer, the buttons would eventually be all white which certainly is not beautiful. So the button's edges can be treated rather roughly, their tops should either not be treated at all if they were not sticky in the first place, or if necessary, witih litle force and more slowly. It is a good idea to dry it all of from time to time as only the dry state reveals any stickiness left, and also inconsistency in the treatment of the front panel surface.
      If you find that coating is too hard to remove, repeat the water immersion process another time. The behavior of the coating varies from device to device, and the way it degrades depends a lot of where the devices were placed. Heat and UV components of sunlight cause heavier and faster degradation, so the time to soften it up depends....

      All the rotary knobs in any Squeezebox can just be pulled off, they are not locked in any way, just sitting more or less firmly on the shaft of the encoder beneath.
      For the Boom cure the front panel assembly must be disassembled completely, i.e. you need to remove the speaker grilles, loosen 4 TX10 screws beneath to get the front panel off, carefully loosen the FFC that connects the front panel to the mainboard, then loosen 8 small black PH1 screws that hold the front panel PCB to the plastic carrier. The PCB may appear to be stuck which is just the rubber parts of button mat still holding on. It should be possible with soft force and some patience to get it all apart. Also be careful not to tear the rubber mat in case some buttons are stuck in their channels. You can push those in from the front side to help get the mat out.
      I recommend to remove the Boom's favorite buttons 1-6 also to ensure that no water is caught behind them. They each have two transparent plastic latches that can be pushed together slightly so the buttons can be pushed out from the back. I also recommend to remove the black adhesive strip from the bottom of the display window because the adhesive does not survive the water bath so well.
      Before you put everything back together, please make sure that all parts are completely dry. You can use a hair dryer at some distance to remove moisture forcefully or let the parts sit in a dry corner for a day. Moisture caught between the button mat and the PCB won't get out easily and will do damage. Moisture in other locations will not easily get out of the Boom case either and may cause corrision anywhere. Take your time there, better safe than sorry.

      Hope this helps one way or the other.

      Cheers,
      Joe
      sigpic

      PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!

      Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?ri...50753#allposts

      Comment


        Originally posted by rojikewl View Post
        Apologies if this has already been answered 100 times, but can the Radio knobs be pulled off for this kind of cleaning/treatment? The stickiness drives me crazy. Over the years I've had phones (remember the Palm Centro?—certain colors had the issue and would also develop black spots of what appeared to be mold), scissors, knives and other products that developed this stickiness after a few years. I hope I live to see the day when these plastics that become sticky are no longer used in manufacturing—assuming they are still being used.
        As Joe mentions above, yes the knobs are removable, they just pull off, but they might be a bit "stuck" from being on there so long. I posted a photo some time ago, but basically I grip with 2 fingers pushed down into the faceplate, and roll the back sides of the fingers (the nail area) to "pry" the knob off. My preferred methods for the knobs is to remove them and use sandpaper/similar to remove everything, then spray paint matte black. chill posted once before of a tactile paint he used when restoring a boom.

        Jim

        Comment


          Anyone tried replacing the Radio knobs with black aluminium (hi-fi or guitar type) potentiometer knobs? They have a 6mm shaft hole and use a small screw to secure them. Lots of styles (modern, retro etc) and colours available. Might add some nice weight to the controls and a sharper look.
          Lounge: Transporter>Audio Synthesis DAX Decade>Audio Research LS22>Krell FPB300>Wilson Benesch Act 1's + 2 x Velodyne SPL1000 sub's
          Kitchen: Touch>Topping DAC>Arcam Solo>Anthony Gallo Micro's+Sub, Joggler controller
          Office: DAC32>Acoustic Energy AE1 Active's, Joggler controller
          Garage: Boom>QAcoustics 7000s subwoofer
          Bedroom: Radio
          Shed: Radio
          Workshop: Boom
          Garden 1: SB3>JVC amp>Rock outdoor speakers
          Garden 2: SB3>JVC amp>Rock outdoor speakers

          Comment


            While it's not particularly sustainable, I've bought new knobs for my radios on ebay and I'm very happy with them.
            LMS 8.4 on MacbookPro 11.1 from 2014 running Ubuntu Budgie | 1x Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W + moOde 7 UPnP as USB-Player + TEAC UD-501 USB-DAC + Phonitor Mini Headphone Amplifier + AKG K812 headphones | 5x Squeezbox Radio (red, White, Black) | 1x Raspbery Pi4 + Allo Boss 2 + Arcam FMJ A22+P25 BiAmping + B&W Nautilus 805

            Comment


              Originally posted by ralphy View Post
              For anyone trying to setup a poky build environment I've uploaded 20200213-updated-utilities-i386.tar.gz to my sourceforge site.
              The file contains 32-bit curl-7.52.1 git-2.25.0 openssl-1.1.1d wget-1.18 to allow bitbake to consistantly download the sources successfully for squeezeos builds.

              I use Ubuntu 10.4.04 i386 for my build environment which was current when the poky environment used to build the firmware was released.

              Extract the file in /usr/local as root

              sudo tar -x -z -C /usr/local -f 20200213-updated-utilities-i386.tar.gz

              I'd suggest using a non-root user for building the firmware.
              The ssh v5.3p1 binary included in Ubuntu 10.4 finally stopped working with github on my build environment, so I've rebuilt all these tools with more recent versions.

              I've uploaded 20230114-updated-utilities-i386.tar.gz to my sourceforge site.

              The file contains curl-7.87.0, git-2.38.2, openssh-9.1p1, openssl-1.1.1s, wget-1.21.3 and ca-certificates as of January 9, 2023.

              Extract the file in /usr/local as root

              sudo tar -x -z -C /usr/local -f 20230114-updated-utilities-i386.tar.gz

              You can safely delete /usr/local/lib/libcurl.so.4.4.0 afterwards as that library is for the old curl-7.52.1.
              Ralphy

              1-Touch, 5-Classics, 3-Booms, 2-UE Radio
              Squeezebox client builds donations always appreciated.

              Comment


                I'm stuck updating my 'baby' if anyone has any ideas. Sure looks like it should work. Keeps offering the old firmware. Thanks much!


                Code:
                Logitech Media Server Version: 8.4.0 - 1675097179 @ Mon Jan 30 17:48:13 WEST 2023
                Hostname: Carnotaurus
                Server IP Address: 172.16.4.30
                Server HTTP Port Number: 9000
                Operating system: Windows 11 - EN - cp1252
                Platform Architecture: 8664
                Perl Version: 5.14.1 - MSWin32-x86-multi-thread
                Audio::Scan: 1.06
                IO::Socket::SSL: 2.068
                Database Version: DBD::SQLite 1.58 (sqlite 3.22.0)
                Total Players Recognized: 0
                Code:
                ​[23-02-02 12:50:07.5754] Slim::Networking:Discovery::getFakeVersion (131)
                You're using a SB Radio with a buggy firmware not recognizing this version of Logitech Media Server.
                Please consider patching it. Until then we'll try to play nice and return a fake version number...
                
                See https://github.com/Logitech/slimserver/blob/public/8.0/README.md#sb-radio-and-logitech-media-server-8.
                [23-02-02 12:52:34.9067] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 12:53:37.1772] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 12:58:11.9567] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 13:00:42.4133] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 13:30:00.2328] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 13:33:44.0655] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 13:40:43.2481] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 13:44:21.5189] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 16:23:47.8086] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                [23-02-02 16:32:40.6265] Slim::Utils::Firmware::need_upgrade (344) baby needs upgrade! (has: 7.7.3 r16676, needs: 8.0.1 16907)
                Attached Files

                Comment


                  Originally posted by zoma View Post
                  I'm stuck updating my 'baby' if anyone has any ideas. Sure looks like it should work. Keeps offering the old firmware. Thanks much!
                  I'm a little fuzzy on this, but let me suggest, and have others provide more detail or correct me...

                  You posted in the community firmware thread. If you would like to us it, it should solve your issue. Follow the instructions (post #2).

                  Otherwise, take a look at this thread, specifically start at post #2: https://forums.slimdevices.com/forum...ed#post1552221

                  Personally, I did the version compare fix, but 3 years ago? I believe, but could be wrong, that this was addressed in later versions of LMS, and should not be required in 8.4? Not sure...

                  Jim

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Redrum View Post

                    I'm a little fuzzy on this, but let me suggest, and have others provide more detail or correct me...

                    You posted in the community firmware thread. If you would like to us it, it should solve your issue. Follow the instructions (post #2).

                    Otherwise, take a look at this thread, specifically start at post #2: https://forums.slimdevices.com/forum...ed#post1552221

                    Personally, I did the version compare fix, but 3 years ago? I believe, but could be wrong, that this was addressed in later versions of LMS, and should not be required in 8.4? Not sure...

                    Jim
                    Agree with Jim. I had to do the version fix years ago, but wiped all that out with a factory reset when I installed the new community firmware. Version fix not needed when running community firmware.
                    Home: Pi4B-8GB/pCP8.2.x/4TB>LMS 8.3.x>Transporter, Touch, Boom, Radio (all ethernet)
                    Cottage: rPi4B-4GB/pCP8.2.x/4TB>LMS 8.3.x>Touch>Benchmark DAC I, Boom, Radio w/Battery (Radio WIFI)
                    Office: Win11(64)>foobar2000
                    The Wild: rPi3B+/pCP7.x/4TB>LMS 8.1.x>hifiberry Dac+Pro (LMS & Squeezelite)
                    Controllers: iPhone14Pro & iPadAir5 (iPeng), CONTROLLER, Material Skin, or SqueezePlay 7.8 on Win10(64)
                    Files: Ripping: dBpoweramp > FLAC; Post-rip: mp3tag, PerfectTunes, TuneFusion; Streaming: Spotify

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by garym View Post

                      Agree with Jim. I had to do the version fix years ago, but wiped all that out with a factory reset when I installed the new community firmware. Version fix not needed when running community firmware.
                      Hi Gary, does the version compare not persist a factory reset? That makes sense, but I never gave it a thought. Also, isn't it moot with the newer version of LMS, maybe after 8.2? I seem to recall that. I ask because I really don't pay much attention to LMS messages when my players just work.

                      I have not moved over the the community firmware, guess maybe I should, but I have allot of radios and have setup friends with radios, so it would be a bit of work

                      Jim

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Redrum View Post

                        Hi Gary, does the version compare not persist a factory reset? That makes sense, but I never gave it a thought. Also, isn't it moot with the newer version of LMS, maybe after 8.2? I seem to recall that. I ask because I really don't pay much attention to LMS messages when my players just work.

                        I have not moved over the the community firmware, guess maybe I should, but I have allot of radios and have setup friends with radios, so it would be a bit of work

                        Jim
                        Hmmm, good question. I would *think* the version compare doesn't survive a faculty reset (and recall, vaguely, that in installing community firmware it is suggested that one do a factory reset first). But it could also be true that new versions of LMS, 8.x.x resolve the problem automatically. But as you say, if all is working OK without community firmware, you must be ok, otherwise you'd be getting error messages.
                        Home: Pi4B-8GB/pCP8.2.x/4TB>LMS 8.3.x>Transporter, Touch, Boom, Radio (all ethernet)
                        Cottage: rPi4B-4GB/pCP8.2.x/4TB>LMS 8.3.x>Touch>Benchmark DAC I, Boom, Radio w/Battery (Radio WIFI)
                        Office: Win11(64)>foobar2000
                        The Wild: rPi3B+/pCP7.x/4TB>LMS 8.1.x>hifiberry Dac+Pro (LMS & Squeezelite)
                        Controllers: iPhone14Pro & iPadAir5 (iPeng), CONTROLLER, Material Skin, or SqueezePlay 7.8 on Win10(64)
                        Files: Ripping: dBpoweramp > FLAC; Post-rip: mp3tag, PerfectTunes, TuneFusion; Streaming: Spotify

                        Comment

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