Duet Controller back button not working

[Redrum]

Fantastic! It was fun talking about it, brought back some memories. Nice work.

I had a thought after waking this morning, I had said that I think I have a dead controller in a box. I wonder if it's just the home/power button has suffered a similar fate? Hmmmm...

Thank you for all of the pictures and description of your progress. It might help someone else in the future

Jim

[mrw]

Now my back button works!

Very impressive ! And not a drop of blood to be seen !

Thanks for the detailed photographs.

[MrTeroo]

Thanks everyone for all your help.

This will be me in bed tonight:

[MrTeroo]

Then I gave the board & underside of the click dome a squirt of contact cleaner.
Let it dry then sellotaped it back in place.

Now my back button works!

[MrTeroo]

BINGO!!!

My back button is back

I carefully sliced the clear film all around the circumference, using a surgical scalpel with a new blade.

[mrw]

I had a thought about this... mrw let me know if you agree.

This is also my thinking.

If my brain were engageable, I could work out each row and column from https://github.com/ralph-irving/sque.../jive_matrix.c, and map the matrix to the individual switches. So one might positively affirm that each row and column does, indeed, work by identifying the working switches. Which would then, hopefully, confirm that the one non-working switch is simply failing to close the contact. The scroll wheel seems to not to be in point - it looks to be using different GPIOs.

I failed to mention the magic word “ssh” on my previous post… that suggestion probably gets most of the way there.

As an aside, I am thoroughly impressed by these “snap” type switches. It must take a fair amount of research and testing to get it just right. One that particularly caught my attention was the type included in (modern ?) electric kettles. There, the snap action is temperature driven, and disengages a latching contactor when the water comes to the boil. When the temperature cools the action becomes an “unsnap”, so ready to go again. How do “they” figure out the precise shape needed to ping off at the right temperature, but not before ?

[Redrum]

I had a thought about this... mrw let me know if you agree. - If all of the other buttons work and the scroll wheel turned slowly works smoothly (i.e. it looks like each discrete position of the rotary switch works), then it has to be the mechanical click it. My reasoning - If the buttons are matrixed, and any port on the SOC, or any discrete device in line, like a buffer, is faulty, then either a row or a column would be missing, causing more than the one button to be bad. Even if it was a trace on the pcb this would be true.

So, it is most likely, especially given the mechanical nature of the clickit, that the problem must be in that area

Jim

[Redrum]

If I take it off, how would I reattach it?

not sure, I didn't watch the end of that video! . It looks like (in the video) it is held in place by that overlay that is adhesive back. It looks similar in your pictures. Maybe you could do the same with some sort of thin tape, but please don't quote me.

One way you could look at it. It's not working anyhow....

[MrTeroo]

Maybe you could pull the back one off to see what you have, and maybe swap it with another that you never use? It's quite possible that if you pull it off cleaning might help?


Jim

If I take it off, how would I reattach it?

[Redrum]

Some points, somewhat from memory, so e&oe:

The keys are, indeed, “matrixed”, the matrix being driven by some of the SOC’s GPIO pins. The CPU does the scanning, interrupt driven.

Here’s to be found (some of) the relevant kernel code: https://github.com/ralph-irving/sque...vers/char/jive

The relevant Linux input device is /dev/input/event2.

A cat /dev/input/event2 will react “nicely” to the pressing of keys. This might give a backstop confirm that “yes, indeed, the hardware is not responding to this particular key”.

Thanks for clarifying. I tend to think very simplistic and 80's electronics because allot of my consumer product experience is very low cost/simple (toys, infant monitors), and, I am on the older side Of course when you have $ to spend a SOC or uP can do everything.

I really have no idea how to even start your suggestion, but then again, all my back buttons work!

Jim

[Redrum]

I once started washing my Triumph Herald 13/60 convertible and decided to deal with some rust around the heater box.
Well, one thing led to another and two months later the whole car was completely dismantled ready for restoration

It's the old "while I am at it....uh oh..."

[mrw]

Some points, somewhat from memory, so e&oe:

The keys are, indeed, “matrixed”, the matrix being driven by some of the SOC’s GPIO pins. The CPU does the scanning, interrupt driven.

Here’s to be found (some of) the relevant kernel code: https://github.com/ralph-irving/sque...vers/char/jive

The relevant Linux input device is /dev/input/event2.

A cat /dev/input/event2 will react “nicely” to the pressing of keys. This might give a backstop confirm that “yes, indeed, the hardware is not responding to this particular key”.

[MrTeroo]

I once started washing my Triumph Herald 13/60 convertible and decided to deal with some rust around the heater box.
Well, one thing led to another and two months later the whole car was completely dismantled ready for restoration

[Redrum]

Thanks Jim,

I do have another controller. I only use them to set up the receivers initially.

The back button not working is only a minor inconvenience, but I enjoy fiddling with things.

Where would I buy some click it domes? It's 3.5mm dia

Fiddling, me too. Often I end up with a mess that I end up tossing. Other times I put hours into fixing something worth $10

I have no idea on sourcing the domes. Problem is there would probably be a pretty high minimum quantity. Maybe you could pull the back one off to see what you have, and maybe swap it with another that you never use? It's quite possible that if you pull it off cleaning might help?

If you do manage to get some IC numbers, let me know.

Jim

[MrTeroo]

Thanks Jim,

I do have another controller. I only use them to set up the receivers initially.

The back button not working is only a minor inconvenience, but I enjoy fiddling with things.

Where would I buy some click it domes? It's 3.5mm dia