Duet Controller back button not working

[bpa]

Thanks for the reply,

How would I remap the button? I've Googled it with no results so far?

If it is possible, you'd have to modify some files on the controller. Patching files is easy on Radio and Touch as there is a serial port or ssh access. I'm not sure about ssh access to a controller. The alternative might be files can be patched using a boot script on the memory card.

Looking at Squeezeplay code - the TestKeypad applet - it show keys have events and it seems "KEY_BACK" is the event for the back key. I'd start with searching all Squeezeplay Lua files for "KEY_BACK" to see where it is used and whether you can swap with another key ( KEY_ADD?)

[slartibartfast]

If it is possible, you'd have to modify some files on the controller. Patching files is easy on Radio and Touch as there is a serial port or ssh access. I'm not sure about ssh access to a controller. The alternative might be files can be patched using a boot script on the memory card.

Looking at Squeezeplay code - the TestKeypad applet - it show keys have events and it seems "KEY_BACK" is the event for the back key. I'd start with searching all Squeezeplay Lua files for "KEY_BACK" to see where it is used and whether you can swap with another key ( KEY_ADD?)

I have never tried it but if you navigate to
Settings/Advanced/Beta Features/Shortcuts
it should be possible to define one of the shortcuts as "Back".

Edit. Now I have tried it and it works. I defined
Key Hold More = Back

[mrw]

Also this post has a pdf with photos

https://forums.slimdevices.com/forum/user-forums/squeezebox-duet/106763-disassemble-duet-controller-to-clean-scroll-wheel?p=1367680#post1367680

Contact cleaner would only help if the button is mechanical they could be capacitative

It is not completely accurate as regards my controller. (A later revision ?)

With mine, there are four little cross head screws that need to be removed first. The faceplate then comes off pretty much as described, and the circuit board can be partially moved. But beware, there are two small wires that connect to the small speaker that could easily be yanked away. There are two little plastic lugs at the top of the faceplate that engage into slots in the main back piece, these require a little jiggling to free it up. There are no other impediments, one should be able to slide a finger nail all the way around, with the exception of that top section.

Reassembly requires the circuit board to be nestled back into the faceplate before replacing. That is dictated by the need to align the plastic lugs with their respective slots in the main back piece.

Which said:

The membrane buttons press down onto a mechanical “Circular Metal Dome PCB switch”. Rather like those described here: https://www.pannam.com/blog/metal-dome-pcb-switch/.

It’s not obvious to me how these might be cleaned, or repaired, although I have no experience of them. Perhaps something might be done if the membrane button has become damaged and is simply no longer pressing down with sufficient force to close the switch.

[MrTeroo]

The membrane buttons press down onto a mechanical “Circular Metal Dome PCB switch”. Rather like those described here: https://www.pannam.com/blog/metal-dome-pcb-switch/.

It’s not obvious to me how these might be cleaned, or repaired, although I have no experience of them. Perhaps something might be done if the membrane button has become damaged and is simply no longer pressing down with sufficient force to close the switch.

Thanks for that walk through.

In your opinion, after having seen the internal layout, do you think this would be doable?

https://youtu.be/wHAkqCAXsmg

[Redrum]

.
The membrane buttons press down onto a mechanical “Circular Metal Dome PCB switch”. Rather like those described here: https://www.pannam.com/blog/metal-dome-pcb-switch/.

It’s not obvious to me how these might be cleaned, or repaired, although I have no experience of them. Perhaps something might be done if the membrane button has become damaged and is simply no longer pressing down with sufficient force to close the switch.

I worked in electrical engineering for consumer products, and we called these "click-its". You can see if they have been crushed, which is how they often fail (no longer "click", or basically lose the dome shape). Most of the time, if they no longer "click" they are bad. You can use a multimeter to check continuity through the two traces (with battery disconnected), if there are either small test points, or, you might have to scrape a bit of the coating off the trace. Or, just skip that if it's too difficult.

MrTeroo I breezed through the video, and it is certainly doable, but not all click it domes are secured in place that way. Also, you have to source the dome.

I would suggest taking it apart via mrw 's instructions and see what you have. Like I said, I think I have a dead controller in storage, but I am not sure I can get to playing with it for a few days.

If you do decide to take it apart, take a few pictures to post how, maybe start a new thread in the duet forum, it might help others down the road.

Jim

[MrTeroo]

Thanks Jim,

It still makes a comforting clicking sound when I press it.

[mrw]

In your opinion, after having seen the internal layout, do you think this would be doable?

https://youtu.be/wHAkqCAXsmg

Nice find. It’s conceivable, but I didn’t look closely enough.

One point: one would need to lift away the entire “buttons membrane” to work on the ”click-it”. I didn’t attempt or investigate this because it surrounds the wheel assembly, and I had no desire to induce damage during the process. It may be quite straightforward. There isn’t much space to work in, so one may need to desolder those little wires and completely remove the circuit board.

I think I would follow Redrum’s suggestion and have a careful look.

[mrw]

It still makes a comforting clicking sound when I press it.

My recollection is that the clicking sound/feel is generated by the membrane, and not the dome. This surprised me.

[Redrum]

My recollection is that the clicking sound/feel is generated by the membrane, and not the dome. This surprised me.

go to about 2:00 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dEl...el=TheLabOtomy

It's actually the metal - the dome changing "shape polarity" that makes the click. The tension in the material is what returns it (edit, if there is a silicone pad, that might just be giving compliance for feel.)

If it still clicks, you might have to take it apart to see what's going on.

Something that probably won't work, have you taken the battery out any let it sit a few minutes to discharge and caps? A true "hard reset"

Jim

[Redrum]

Interesting, a comment from the video linked above. Might explain why you get click and no action. I think the "clean themselves" is because with a silicone membrane switch, the compliance in the rubber button (with conductive deposit on the bottom) can wiggle/wipe (some horizontal motion) when pressed against the pcb allowing some amount of cleaning? With click it's, you don't have that.

Jim

[MrTeroo]

So do you think a squirt of contact cleaner might be worth a try?

[Redrum]

So do you think a squirt of contact cleaner might be worth a try?

I don't know what it looks like, isn't it encapsulated?" That is, the rim of the dome adhered and sealed at the pcb. If that's the case, then no.

Jim

[MrTeroo]

Ok, take apart was much easier than I expected.

Remove the battery and then the 4 screws as mentioned by Mr W and the front face more or less came out of its own accord.

Just be careful prising off the top edge as that is where the thin speaker wires are.

Duet Controller take apart:

[MrTeroo]

[MrTeroo]