re-purpose boom

[w3wilkes]

Good observation. It reminds me that as a kid we could drop a bigger engine into a 1970's car, but not anymore

Seems to still be doable here in Utah. Our 1950 Chev 3100 is updated to a 350 w/Auto, A/C, etc

[joske]

JoeMuc2009 Any thoughts?

[Redrum]

Seems to still be doable here in Utah. Our 1950 Chev 3100 is updated to a 350 w/Auto, A/C, etc

...ECM, sensors, emission controls?

Just beautiful!, I'll bet it flies. Do you have a Rat Fink decal or maybe shifter knob?

That has to be allot of fun...

but, I think you know what I mean

I always wondered though, with it that clean and shiny, do you just look at it, or do you have to wipe down every inch after driving? Certainly there is road dust in Utah

Jim

[Redrum]

joske - Joe is your best bet, and I know nothing of the design, not have I worked on one. But in my experience, if you wanted to open one up, checking the internal power supply/management might be a good place to start. The boom takes 12VDC as an input, then other voltages might be generated via buck/boost.

Say (hypothetical) 5 or 3.3V is needed for the SOC, Logic, FPA, DSP, etc, there would be a separate buck circuit for that. The audio amps (spec sheet here: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/4...79a-124367.pdf ) need 10-26v, so either the 12 is passed through, or the voltage is boosted somewhere.

You could start by testing the voltage at the audio amp, in fact, it looks like (from the data sheet) if you find voltage, you might be able to inject some low level audio (like from your phone) into the input and see if you get anything.

Jim

[JoeMuc2009]

joske sorry for joining in so late, I have missed this entire conversation until now.
Let me say first that I have never found any power-related issues in the Boom other than the filament power supply breakdown. Chances that you will find other voltages deviating from design are minimal and I would not recommend to waste time on this.

Did the two issues (dark display and no sound) come at the same time? Any observations while it broke down, or external factors that might have contributed to it?
My suspect is the Xilinx CPLD. It can be reset / reprogrammed, however, you would need an infrared remote control that has a keypad on it because what you need to do is keep the digit "1" key pushed while powering up the Boom. The mini remote control that ships with the Boom is not capable of doing that, and the Factory reset that you can kick off by keeping the "+" key pressed during powerup is something different. The "1" keypad key ss the only known way to trigger the refresh, no other approach for this, sorry. If you have an SBv3, a Touch, Transporter or any other Squeezebox that has a full-size remote, they can be used as well.
If it succeeds, it will give you a "Xilinx reset" message and then restart the Boom. The Xilinx manages communication between CPU and DAC which might explain why there is no sound despite the device playing something - it just never reaches the DAC, or communications are garbled so the DAC does not understand what to do. The Xilinx might also be involved in driving the display. However, the display could also be a victim of the dreaded filament starvation issue (mentioned already) which means that the filament wires are no longer supplied the correct voltage. There is a fix for that which is quite cheap and requires some soldering skills.
However, I doubt that you have two individual hardware failures all at the same time. It's not impossible but still odd. Let's get there step by step.

Cheers,
Joe

[joske]

Hi JoeMuc2009, thanks for the reply. I don't remember as the display failure was in 2020, and I stored the boom since, only this week I started looking into it again...

I don't have a IR remote with a keypad, I do have a duet (no idea if that still works), but its remote also doesn't have a keypad, so not sure what I can do next.

I guess if it is factory reset, it will forget the network settings and then I can't reach it at all anymore without the display working?

[Redrum]

I don't have a IR remote with a keypad, I do have a duet (no idea if that still works), but its remote also doesn't have a keypad, so not sure what I can do next.

I have never tried, but I think you can use any cheap universal remote set to the JVC_DVD codes, see my settings:

There are a few thread on it out there on this: https://forums.slimdevices.com/forum...remote-control

Otherwise, not sure where you are located, but if in the US, I can send you a touch remote to try (I think I have one, would have to double check)

Jim

<edit, you would need to have jvc_dvd checked, not sure if it's default>

[joske]

Thx, but I'm in Belgium ;-). I'll try if I can find a universal remote.

[joske]

Oh, I read here: https://forums.slimdevices.com/forum...99#post1310399 that you can also use the 1 preset button on the boom itself for the xilinx reset. JoeMuc2009 can you confirm this? Anyway, will try this tomorrow.

[joske]

I pressed the 1 preset button and connected power, and after a while I heard a pop in the speakers, I kept it pressed some more, but the screen didn't come on.

Then I tried to play music with LMS and sound came out! So half of the problem is solved, screen still dead.

But I can control it using Orange Squeeze app, so the boom is functional!

[CJS]

I pressed the 1 preset button and connected power, and after a while I heard a pop in the speakers, I kept it pressed some more, but the screen didn't come on. Then I tried to play music with LMS and sound came out! So half of the problem is solved, screen still dead. But I can control it using Orange Squeeze app, so the boom is functional!

Congratulations. Good to know about the Xilinx reset, and that it can be done without remote. I will make a note about this.

[joske]

Even better, the spotty plugin can do spotify connect now (don't recall that from back in the days before chromecast ;-)), so now I can stream from spotify app directly to the boom (what was my goal all along)

[Redrum]

Then I tried to play music with LMS and sound came out!

That is so cool! Happy to hear.

Jim

[JoeMuc2009]

Congratulations. Good to know about the Xilinx reset, and that it can be done without remote. I will make a note about this.

Wow, so will I! Thanks for this, I never knew the preset button can be used, too. Another lesson learned.
@joske: About the display, if you want I can take care of it. Sending between Belgium and Germany should not be too expensive.

Cheers,
Joe

[w3wilkes]

...ECM, sensors, emission controls?

Just beautiful!, I'll bet it flies. Do you have a Rat Fink decal or maybe shifter knob?

That has to be allot of fun...

but, I think you know what I mean

I always wondered though, with it that clean and shiny, do you just look at it, or do you have to wipe down every inch after driving? Certainly there is road dust in Utah

Jim

In most states any vehicle older than 1973 there is no emission requirement so that truck being a 1950 has no emissions requirement. It is now completed and I use a California car duster to keep it clean. It doesn't get driven in bad weather either.