There can't be many things more annoying than painstakingly removing all the pops and clicks in a needledrop only to hear clearly audible pops that you missed the first time you play it back via Squeezebox. These pops that escape detection tend to be very difficult to distinguish from the music waveform so it is no surprise that automated processes miss them. I am now on my fifth iteration of "Wind & Wuthering" and I still hear a few annoying pops I will need to track down and obliterate. They are more obvious on the living room system than through headphones on the laptop. I finally resorted to monitoring through my USB audio interface which helps. Hopefully the next iteration will catch them all 🤞
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Needledrop annoyances
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by Apesbrain View PostYeah, it happens. I keep a pencil and paper nearby so I can jot down the track # and time if I think I hear a pop. SB actually makes it easy to jump back 15 sec. to confirm if it really was a pop vs. a static tic. Fixing it rarely takes more than a few minutes, so no biggie.Living Room: Touch or Squeezelite (Pi3B) > Topping E30 > Audiolab 8000A > Monitor Audio S5 + BK200-XLS DF
Bedroom: Radio
Bathroom: Radio
Comment
-
Originally posted by slartibartfast View Post
Sometimes it is very hard to tell the pop from the music. You have the latency of the soundcard to deal with as well so the cursor position doesn't match the click position. I have also heard some noises I thought were clicks but also appear on the CD version 🤣Jim
VB2.4 storage QNAP TS419p (NFS)
Living Room Joggler & Pi4/Khadas -> Onkyo TXNR686 -> Celestion F20s
Office Joggler & Pi3 -> Denon RCD N8 -> Celestion F10s
Dining Room SB Radio
Bedroom (Bedside) Pi Zero+DAC ->ToppingTP21 ->AKG Headphones
Bedroom (TV) & Bathroom SB Touch ->Denon AVR ->Mordaunt Short M10s + Kef ceiling speakers
Guest Room Joggler > Topping Amp -> Wharfedale Modus Cubes
Comment
-
That's Audacity though and it doesn't zoom in enoughJim
VB2.4 storage QNAP TS419p (NFS)
Living Room Joggler & Pi4/Khadas -> Onkyo TXNR686 -> Celestion F20s
Office Joggler & Pi3 -> Denon RCD N8 -> Celestion F10s
Dining Room SB Radio
Bedroom (Bedside) Pi Zero+DAC ->ToppingTP21 ->AKG Headphones
Bedroom (TV) & Bathroom SB Touch ->Denon AVR ->Mordaunt Short M10s + Kef ceiling speakers
Guest Room Joggler > Topping Amp -> Wharfedale Modus Cubes
Comment
-
Originally posted by d6jg View PostThat's Audacity though and it doesn't zoom in enoughLiving Room: Touch or Squeezelite (Pi3B) > Topping E30 > Audiolab 8000A > Monitor Audio S5 + BK200-XLS DF
Bedroom: Radio
Bathroom: Radio
Comment
-
Originally posted by slartibartfast View PostI have also heard some noises I thought were clicks but also appear on the CD version 🤣
In your example, I'm going to suspect any areas where one channel trace is significantly different from the other. For example, here:
Comment
-
Originally posted by Apesbrain View PostLiving Room: Touch or Squeezelite (Pi3B) > Topping E30 > Audiolab 8000A > Monitor Audio S5 + BK200-XLS DF
Bedroom: Radio
Bathroom: Radio
Comment
-
Automatic click/pop removal is notoriously difficult and often unreliable.
IME Wave Corrector is one of the better ones (along with VinylStudio, Adobe Audition and Sony Sound Forge).
But auto removal is always going to miss some instances - in which case you have to resort to manual editing.
Worse still, auto-declickers sometimes make a hash of things. Stuff like reed instruments can trick them and get trashed.
At least Wave Corrector allows you to review its findings and remove phantom positives.
Also, some big pops tend to be replaced with dull "thuds" - it's always a good idea to do a quick manual pass to fix really big pops before letting an auto-declicker loose.
As for finding elusive small clicks, I agree that some seemingly innocuous-looking pimples on the side of a big waveform can result in audible ticks.
Trying to identify them on a waveform display is difficult.
You're much better off using a spectral display, where clicks (and even small ticks) tend to stick out quite obviously as narrow spikes, like this:
Attached FilesUntil recently: Transporter -> ATC SCM100A, now sold :-(
House move forced change to: piCorePlayer(RPi2/HiFiBerry DIGI2 Pro) -> Meridian 218 -> Meridian M6
Comment
-
Originally posted by d6jg View Post
I don't experience that problem with VinylStudio. If you zoom in far enough you can usually see the pop quite clearly.Living Room: Touch or Squeezelite (Pi3B) > Topping E30 > Audiolab 8000A > Monitor Audio S5 + BK200-XLS DF
Bedroom: Radio
Bathroom: Radio
Comment
-
Originally posted by cliveb View PostAutomatic click/pop removal is notoriously difficult and often unreliable.
IME Wave Corrector is one of the better ones (along with VinylStudio, Adobe Audition and Sony Sound Forge).
But auto removal is always going to miss some instances - in which case you have to resort to manual editing.
Worse still, auto-declickers sometimes make a hash of things. Stuff like reed instruments can trick them and get trashed.
At least Wave Corrector allows you to review its findings and remove phantom positives.
Also, some big pops tend to be replaced with dull "thuds" - it's always a good idea to do a quick manual pass to fix really big pops before letting an auto-declicker loose.
As for finding elusive small clicks, I agree that some seemingly innocuous-looking pimples on the side of a big waveform can result in audible ticks.
Trying to identify them on a waveform display is difficult.
You're much better off using a spectral display, where clicks (and even small ticks) tend to stick out quite obviously as narrow spikes, like this:
With Wave Corrector I tend to do an automatic pass with the threshold raised to 10 so only the worst clicks are detected then check each one to make sure they are clicks. After that I listen stopping at clicks to manually remove them.Living Room: Touch or Squeezelite (Pi3B) > Topping E30 > Audiolab 8000A > Monitor Audio S5 + BK200-XLS DF
Bedroom: Radio
Bathroom: Radio
Comment
-
Originally posted by cliveb View PostAutomatic click/pop removal is notoriously difficult and often unreliable.
IME Wave Corrector is one of the better ones (along with VinylStudio, Adobe Audition and Sony Sound Forge)....
Usually running latest beta LMS nightly on Raspberry Pi OS with virtual players (Squeezelite and Airplay bridge). Occasionally using SB Radio, Boom or Classic.
Comment
-
Originally posted by RobbH View PostThis is a bit off-topic for this thread, but I used to get good results with a program called Wave Repair, which I think you (@cliveb) might know something about. I haven't used it in a long time, though. How would you compare it to other current options?
If you want automatic declicking, there are better options. If you want the least labour intensive way of manually restoring vinyl recordings - and IMHO careful manual restoration does give the best results - Wave Repair is worth having in your toolkit.
Note that it's an old legacy program which is no longer in active development.Until recently: Transporter -> ATC SCM100A, now sold :-(
House move forced change to: piCorePlayer(RPi2/HiFiBerry DIGI2 Pro) -> Meridian 218 -> Meridian M6
Comment
-
Trying not to hijack this thread, this is just to acknowledge to cliveb that I downloaded the current version of Wave Repair and found that it installs and runs on Linux under Wine. I haven't actually tried to use it yet, but the next time I feel a need to transfer vinyl, I will find out. My registration from 1998 was still good. I also still use Cool Edit Pro v2.1, which was later rebranded as Adobe Audition v.1.
Usually running latest beta LMS nightly on Raspberry Pi OS with virtual players (Squeezelite and Airplay bridge). Occasionally using SB Radio, Boom or Classic.
Comment
Comment