Squeezebox Classic No Power to Screen/Toslink lit up -- what gives?

[KarlK]

I have a SB Classic (pre-version 3) that was acting a little wonky for awhile (would reset from time to time or simply stop playing until I hit the play button on the remote after it reset).

Now it's gone completely dark.

What I've done to troubleshoot:

1. Tried to do a reset using the '+' or Add button while plugging in the power cord but that did not work. FWIW, my remote is one of those that most likely needs to be fixed as I have to press hard on the buttons for correct contact and IR signal to occur. Also tried pressing the '1' button while plugging in the SB to reset the Xilink chip to no avail.

2. Used a replacement PSU/wallwart plug from a ROKU player I have -- same parameters as the SB PSU but no change in the Classic status. The toslink is showing red so the unit IS receiving power although it appears somewhat dim, but I have no correlation to what is normal as I never used that functionality of the unit while it was working properly.

3. Measured the PSU with a voltimeter and it's reading a clear 5v output.

4. Took apart the SB Classic and removed the wifi card and did a hard connect with ethernet cable. Unfortunately my slimserver/mysqueezebox does not see a player 'connected'. Therefore I don't think it's the wifi card nor the display. Perhaps one of the voltage regulator capacitors on the motherboard??

5. Pried loose the daughter motherboard and reseated it on the main MB to ensure proper connection. Use electrical cleaner to de-oxidize/clean the contacts but still nothing.

5. Reinstalled the wifi card and tried again to re-seat the daughter motherboard and still nothing to the display.

6. Checked the display parameters on mysqueezebox and they're all set properly to full brightness.


I've gone through numerous threads as to how to repair this but thus far, nothing's worked.

Can anyone suggest something else to try? I REALLY love my SB and short of getting another one, I'm at a loss as to what to do next. I've tried everything that I've come across and all I get is a blank screen, no connectivity despite the wifi card having been removed and even after re-seating the daughterboard, etc, still no luck. Again, I'm wondering if it's one of the capacitors that's failed regulating the voltage, but I see no evidence of any of them leaking or bulging (often a good sign of a capacitor failure).

Any suggestions? I've been trying to diagnose this for several days now and nothing seems to work. Prior to the sudden stoppage, both the display and wifi were fine.

[frozzers]

I've got exactly the same problem with one of my Squeezebox 3s and tried everything you've done with no success either.

Only difference with mine is that it fell off a kitchen table onto the porcelain tile floor. When I opened it up I found a small round piece of plastic covered metal (approx 7mm diameter) which must have come dislodged on impact. For the life of me, I can't see where it's come from and I've opened up my other Squeezebox 3 to compare but I can't see a similar piece.

I'm in the UK - does anyone know of anyone fixing Squeezeboxes?

Cheers


Chris

[bpa]

2. Used a replacement PSU/wallwart plug from a ROKU player I have -- same parameters as the SB PSU but no change in the Classic status.

What model Roku ? most had too little amps and some had different voltage.

[Wirrunna]

I had the same trouble years ago (http://forums.slimdevices.com/showth...3-appears-dead)

KarlK, When you measured the PSU did you measure it no load ? With the back off the SB3, connect the power supply and measure the volts at the power input socket - in other words "with load". As I recall, my old PSU measured OK with no load and fell when loaded.

[KarlK]

What model Roku ? most had too little amps and some had different voltage.

It's the ROKU XD|S. The PSU shows the exact same specs except for the input side (which I don't THINK would matter but not certain). Output voltage is the same.

Guess I could try the SB PSU on the ROKU to see if they're interchangeable...hadn't thought about that.

[KarlK]

I had the same trouble years ago (http://forums.slimdevices.com/showth...3-appears-dead)

KarlK, When you measured the PSU did you measure it no load ? With the back off the SB3, connect the power supply and measure the volts at the power input socket - in other words "with load". As I recall, my old PSU measured OK with no load and fell when loaded.

No, I didn't do that, but will do so tomorrow. When I measured the voltage, I took one of the volt 'pens', stuck it inside of the female PSU outlet and used the other pen on the outside.

How would one do that on the unit itself if it's plugged in?

Almost seems like one of the power regulator capacitors is bad on the motherboard but I know I couldn't fix it myself.

[Wirrunna]

No, I didn't do that, but will do so tomorrow. When I measured the voltage, I took one of the volt 'pens', stuck it inside of the female PSU outlet and used the other pen on the outside.

How would one do that on the unit itself if it's plugged in?

Almost seems like one of the power regulator capacitors is bad on the motherboard but I know I couldn't fix it myself.

I was able to measure the volts on the board mounted socket on the SB3 with the covers off.

[KarlK]

I was able to measure the volts on the board mounted socket on the SB3 with the covers off.

Had a brain fart -- didn't realize there's a spot right where the PSU plugs into the SB. So, checked on the motherboard, the silver leads off the power plug on the MB and it measures 5-5 volts so it appears the unit's getting power to it and it's not the PSU.

Was really hoping it was the PSU unit or the wifi card but appears to be something else.

The weird thing is, it worked fine until a couple of months ago and it would randomly reboot. Display and wifi worked properly, then one day, tried to turn it on and it was done.

Any other thoughts or suggestions fellas? Feels like I've exhausted every known trick to keep these wonderful devices working.

[KarlK]

Just checked the large capacitor and it's reading 12 volts, the small one right next to the daughter board reads 3.3.v. Have no idea whether those are correct voltages but neither are leaking or bulged indicating failure.

Looks like I'm SOL.

May try and sell it for parts -- the screen and wifi card was working properly before it crapped out so perhaps can salvage something out of it.

[KarlK]

I've got exactly the same problem with one of my Squeezebox 3s and tried everything you've done with no success either.

Only difference with mine is that it fell off a kitchen table onto the porcelain tile floor. When I opened it up I found a small round piece of plastic covered metal (approx 7mm diameter) which must have come dislodged on impact. For the life of me, I can't see where it's come from and I've opened up my other Squeezebox 3 to compare but I can't see a similar piece.

I'm in the UK - does anyone know of anyone fixing Squeezeboxes?

Cheers


Chris

Sounds like it was a capacitor. Check to see if you see a small capacitor (roughly 1/4" long and about that same width wide), right by the ethernet port. If it is and you're handy with a soldering iron, you could try and see if you could reconnect it. I'd first simply take the leads and try putting in where it goes (if you can tell that is) and see if it powers up first before hassling with soldering.

[KarlK]

Well after getting another PSU unit just in case and trying that and it's still not powering up, I've decided to give up on resurrecting the unit. Clearly there's something wrong with the voltage adjustment and perhaps a capacitor went bad. Wish I knew enough about the board layout to try and replace the faulty one, but without it, it'd be a guessing game at best.

Sucks. Panel works fine as well as the wifi so may part those out on Ebay.