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Raymond Day
2012-07-20, 21:21
About 3 days ago my Squeezebox Radio stopped working. It's like it's getting no power. I have a red one too I got when they had a good deal just under $100 for it. So I used that power supply but still not good.

They don't repair them out side 2 years. Said all I can do it buy a new one.

So I open mine up to see if I can see any thing wrong. I don't see what's wrong with it but I can take photos of it.

You start but pulling off the speaker screen. It's just pushed on.

135771357813579

Any one know how I could fix this. It's like the only thing I can do now it thought it away.

-Raymond Day

SuperQ
2012-07-20, 22:41
It looks like there's a burned out part in the upper right of the "bottom of board" photo. Possibly a SMT cap?

Raymond Day
2012-07-21, 01:45
It looks like there's a burned out part in the upper right of the "bottom of board" photo. Possibly a SMT cap?

Your right. I just looked at that part more and I did not see it before. Now I just need to find out what part that is. I have replace a tinny serfice mount part like that before on a small board were some one plugged the wrong power supply in it.

I will try and find what part it is and replace it.

-Raymond Day

steve-g
2012-07-21, 02:15
If I'm right in reading the part as Q3 then this is almost certainly either a transistor or a FET (it looks like it has 3 connections) - you'll probably have to trace part of the circuit to decide which and what polarity (PNP / NPN or N or P FET) - so good luck

Raymond Day
2012-07-21, 17:51
I will upload a photo from my Logitech QuickCam Pro 9000. It can get a closet photo.

13582

You can see in this photo that it is Q3 and there is another one right by the bad one. That my be the same the Q5 would that be the same. So the lable on it is "P3A W8" if that is the right replacement part.

I buy parts at Jameco Electronics. At www.jameco.com

I looked at there web and looks like it would be one here:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&freeText=sot-23&search_type=all

Looks like they are called:

SOT-23
Micro-3
SuperSOT-3

I guess this part went bad because I think the battery pack when bad in it. One of the traces from this bad part goes right to the plug of the battery.

over a year ago I got AA rechargeable battery's and with a kit to make it your self. I guess the battery's got too old.

I just order the $50 battery for this with the remote.

The battery's only cost me about $2 for 4 of them.

Here is a photo of it.

13583

I did have the temperature thing in the middle of the battery. It's out of it because I was trying to see what's wrong with it. I think the battery's are just to old now.

-Raymond Day

Raymond Day
2012-07-22, 01:41
Can see the numbers on the bad part so I open my red Squeezebox Radio. It's easy remove the speaker screen it just pulls off and there are 2 screws holding the board but you have to take off the rubber part over the Ethernet port in back. It pops off then slide the board over to the speaker side.

Any way looks like the bad part it labled "22p xo" or that could be a ox. Not sure. Here is the photo I got of it. It's very small.

13589

Looking for that number don't come up right away on Google. I guess have to put something else with the lable number.

-Raymond Day

fragfutter
2012-07-22, 02:43
my guess: diodes DMP2215L (thats what 22p is for, but these codes are used by multiple manufacturers) and the xo would mean manufacturing date october 2010.


diodes as manufacturer would be consistent with the smd element q5 (p3a) which is also a valid code for diodes (DPLS320A)

Raymond Day
2012-07-22, 14:32
Can you go to here:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&freeText=sot-23&search_type=all

Then tell me what one to buy there?

It's hard to tell what part this is.

-Raymond Day

Raymond Day
2012-07-22, 15:10
I looked for the part. But it was hard to find a web page were I can only order a little of them. 2 web pages says have to order 3000 of them.

I order this part:

2N7002 MOSFET 7.5 Ohm 115mA 60V N-channel SOT-23-3 2N7002LT1G

Looked on Google for it and I found it here:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/

I hope this is the right part. Just had to order at lest $5 from there. I added some other things that I can use.

I guess by next week I will find if it works.

Thank you for all your help here!

-Raymond Day

rpress
2012-07-23, 09:08
I'm going to guess that should be a P-channel MOSFET. With the drain connected to the + of the bus cap, and an N-channel MOSFET, the gate will need to be driven above that voltage to enhance the MOSFET. This is hard to do, and it would make more sense if it used a P-channel MOSFET instead. It's hard to tell without seeing the other traces and/or taking some voltage measurements.

You can get single quantities of MOSFETs from Digi-Key. In the USA, pick USPS first class shipping and it's only a few bucks.

Raymond Day
2012-07-25, 19:58
I solder it on the board but it still don't work.

Order the parts from Mouser Electronics. The paper that came with it says:

621-DPLS320A-7
MFG PN: DPLS320A-7
PNP 0.6W
Diodes Inc. Transistors Bipolar (BJT)

13593

Here is a photo after I solder it in the board.

13594

Looks like it's the same one up on the top of the photo.

I just don't get why it don't still work.

-Raymond Day

Raymond Day
2012-07-26, 04:38
I did not read good your part you said here:

"element q5 (p3a) which is also a valid code for diodes (DPLS320A)"

That's the one I order but you were saying that's the other part on top of the bad part in the photo. At lest the P3A code on top the the part does mach up with the other. So it looks like you were right with the valid code.

So I went back to Mouser and order I hope the right one. From what you said here:

"my guess: diodes DMP2215L (thats what 22p is for, but these codes are used by multiple manufacturers) and the xo would mean manufacturing date october 2010."

Because looks like you were right with the P3A one I hope this one will come and say on the top 22P.

I will post back after I get the part and solder it in.

It did seem like with this P3A solder in it. When I test it I smelled some burning and tuch the new part and it was hot. I unplugged the power fast and plugged it back in. It don't get hot any more. I guess it burned out the wrong part P3A one. I have to solder in the right one any way.

-Raymond Day

steve0564
2012-08-08, 01:41
And now?

Raymond Day
2012-08-08, 06:40
I guess it's some other parts. I think the black things with the number 220 on them my be bad. Looks like it be hard to unsolder them. That they my be solder on top of the board under them.

I got this photo.

13633

I don't know what they are called to order them. I hope that is what's wrong.

Put my squeezebox Radio back together so I don't lose any part from it. I think it will take a long time to fix it if I can.

-Raymond Day

rpress
2012-08-13, 19:27
I don't know what they are called to order them. I hope that is what's wrong.

Put my squeezebox Radio back together so I don't lose any part from it. I think it will take a long time to fix it if I can.

-Raymond Day

Those large black parts are inductors. You can test them with an ohmmeter, I doubt they are bad though, they are quite robust electrically. They can be damaged by impact, though.

Either you still don't have the right part, but I think you do as I would guess the right part is a P-channel MOSFET. Or something else is burned up as well, which is often the case. Try to follow the traces and look for other damaged components.

Don't throw it away, though. If you are ever done trying to fix it I would gladly give you the cost of shipping.

SBT2010
2013-05-28, 12:00
Did anyone ever get this radio repaired?

edllew
2013-10-17, 14:41
I too am wondering if this radio was repaired. My squeezebox radio, about four years old, also died with the same transistor Q3 burnt out, looking just like the photos from the original poster. Interestingly, I also was running with a home-brew battery pack, sensing temperature but not intermediate voltages (as I think the proper battery pack does). I bought a new radio, but would like to repair the old one so am looking for information.

Could be this thread is as dead as my radio...

nmizel
2014-03-05, 14:27
... exact same problem here :(

Any update on this thread?

rickcl
2014-03-30, 19:30
Has anyone made any progress here?









... exact same problem here :(

Any update on this thread?

Bassman
2015-04-05, 17:18
Just a note:

My Radio never had a battery pack, yet it appears Q3 failed on my board, as well.

euleken
2016-03-11, 14:11
Hello together,

I know this thread is old, but now I have the same problem and maybe we can solve it together. First, has anyone a solution by now?
The Mosfet DMP2215L was also killed at my Squeezebox Radio. I checked the current drain all over without the Mosfet and it is about 10mA@18V. This seems very low.
Then I measured the current betwen drain and source pins without a new Mosfet and a connected laboratory power supply with an adjusted max. current of 500mA. The voltage breaks down cause of limmited current. This means, there's a short circuit behind the Mosfet transistor but I don't know the circuit cause of missing schematic diagram. :(
The power for the digital parts is OK with 3.27V but I can't measure any other voltages except 18V and 3.27V. Who knows the circuit/function behind the Mosfet transistor Q5 or has anyone a schematic diagram? Also parts of a diagram could be helpful. Thanks!

euleken

euleken
2016-03-13, 15:12
Hello once again,

after measuring some points the fault is clear. The power amplifier chip TPA3101D2 (U2) had an internal short circuit and that is the reason why the Mosfet DMP2215L (Q3) died. I unsoldered this chip with a hot air rework station, then I connected source and drain pins at the unsoldered Mosfet Q3. After that the radio powered up as ever and played music over the headphone jacket. Great! :o

The Mosfet Q3 is responsible for "power off" the radio, meaning press the power button longer than 2 sec. After that the Mosfet cuts the power to the system except the 3,3Vdc line. A new Mosfet is easy to solder.

20126


To solder a new TPA3101D2 you need eyes like an eagle and good soldering tooling cause the chip has a 48 pin HTQFP package which is also soldered at his exposed thermal pad under his case.

Hopefully, this thread helps other users with the same fault of the Squeezebox Radio. :)

euleken

siikavuopio
2016-07-28, 04:47
Hi after returning from my vacation i plugged my SB radio into the mains but it didnt start up.

Took the multimeter out and measured the psu, It was working at 18 something volts, but when i plug it into the SB the voltage drops and starts alternating between 1 and 3 volts. (at work now so dont have the exact voltage in my head)
For me thats sounds lika a shortcircuit in the unit. opened it up just to have a looksie but nothing apperent. I believe that the smaller card sticking out on the back with the windings is the power regulator/ethernet card.
I also measured the traces to the buttons on the front, All the buttons have ~1V supply exept the power button, that sucker has only 0.1V. Dont know if that helps with the troubleshooting but that was what i found out during my lunch break.

Any suggestions?

habee
2016-08-04, 09:47
I followed the instructions from euleken and replaced TPA3101D2 (Ebay Item: 221274714021) and bridged Q3.
Fortunately i ordered two of these TPA's, because after it was working for a while without chassis i reassembled the complete Radio including the
battery pack.

But after connecting it to power, the SBR fails again after a few minutes.

The only thing what was different to my first boot up was that the battery pack was connected.
So I have the feeling that this has something to do with failure of the TPA and Q3. I also had to replace Q5 (?) with marking "P3A" right
above Q3. It is a PNP Transistor (DPLS320A). Mine was blown.

I also want to mention that in my case there was no sign of burn at Q3, so at first i thought it is ok, but it wasn't.

Right now my SBR is working. I will further test it and keep you informed.

Thanks for sharing worthful information!

habee

habee
2016-08-28, 01:36
Its me again, i just want to share my findings regarding my repaired Squeezebox Radio.

I tried to charge the mostly discharged battery with an external charger, but i cant get it to work
again. The thing I noticed when charging the old battery was that it starts charging with an
extremely high voltage (~25 V), and after a few minutes it charges to its nominla voltage (~13 V)

So i ordered a new one, but as soon as i connected it to my radio i smelled burn and noticed some fumes
out of my radio... :(

Fortunately my SBR survived it without further damage.

But in my opinion that proofs that the death of SBR's might have something to do with the
charging circuit and batteries getting old.

So i would recommend to use the SBR without battery pack or replace the battery pack at least every two years.
My original battery pack was manufactured 05/09/2012.

Bye

habee

fragfutter
2016-08-29, 21:55
I also habe a fried radio, but that one has never seen a battery.

euleken
2016-09-09, 13:41
Hello,

Since now I repaired 5 Squeezebox Radios successfully. Two of them had a faulty power amplifier U2 and a blown MosFET Q3. After replacing these parts the radios worked well.

The other three radios had short circuit over small SMD capacitors. Each radio had the same problem but always with different position of the capacitors. Cause I have no schematic diagram I used a strange method to find the faulty device:
I use an adjustable laboratory power supply where I can adjust voltage and current separately and adjust 18V @100mA. Cause of the schort circuit somewhere on the PCB, the voltage drops down to a very small voltage like e.g. 2 or 3V @100mA. Now it is time to increase the current carefully with simultaneous check of the temperature of the parts at the front and rear of the PCB (now I know: especially SMD capacitors :cool:). The temperature check can be done with an infrared camera or - if you don't have one - with the back of one finger. Be careful with this method cause part(s) can be getting warm or hot!
It is important to increase the current slowly and in small steps and always check the temperature of the parts at once. The faulty part become distinctly warm at one moment (in my cases always SMD capacitors at a current between 300 and 500mA).
After desoldering the located SMD capacitor the radios always worked fine and the short cut was away. In all my cases the capacitors had a very small size so I think also they have a relative small capacity. Mostly I soldered new caps of 6.8 or 10nF.
In two of the three cases with defect capacitors the MosFET Q3 was blown. Before I replace them and do the "current and temperature" test, I make a short cut between drain and source of the MosFET. After replacing the defect capacitor(s) I solder a new MosFET Q3.
In one case Q3 wasn't blown up, but has a short circuit over all three pins. It is not possible to switch the radio completely off. The displays shows "good bye" (or "Auf Wiedersehen") and freeze in this state, cause Q3 can't switch the power off. A replacement of Q3 solve also this issue.

To do all these things you need some knowhow about electronics and you need a good and adjustable laboratory power supply with displays for voltage and current, otherwise it could happen that your Squeezebox Radio will go completely up in smoke... :p

At this time I ask once again: Has someone a schematic diagram of the Squeezebox Radio? It would help a lot in locating and analyzing faults!

euleken

SMWinnie
2016-10-22, 07:49
Our SBR just went dark. I had a Bose Wave and a Squeezebox v.1 on the shelf, so sound quality has improved and my plan is to recycle the SBR.

I tore the SBR down to see if Q3 looks smoked, but it looks fine. By "tore it down," I mean I popped off the grill and removed the board. Then I stopped at the little black screws. Wow - that is some serious over-torque.

The PSU was tested (open and under resistive load) and appears to be fine.

If anyone wants to take a crack at repairing it or salvaging it for parts, drop me a note.

MiroSuxx
2016-11-02, 10:36
Hey Guys,
I also got the problem, that my Squeezebox doesn't work anymore. It worked fine on external power until the moment I plugged (an original) battery pack which was normally installed into my other Radio. It was turned off, I plugged the battery, then the power, then I wanted to boot it. It started for a few seconds, then turned off again, and that was the last seen action of the radio :-( The battery pack became very hot between the upper two batteries and it melted away a little of the plastic covering, so I quickly unplugged battery again. Now it's dead. By looking inside the radio, there seem no blown up parts inside... Power Supply provides 18V, also tried it with the power supply of the other radio. No reaction.

Anyone got an idea ? I'm not really familiar with electronics...

Greetings Thomas

Bassman
2017-08-28, 09:59
I have my original Radio that blew the power control component(s) as seen in these topics:
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?95865-Inside-Squeezebox-Radio&p=862112&viewfull=1#post862112
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?103458-What-part-is-this-that-burned-(photos-included)-TIA
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?101548-SB-Radio-won-t-power-up-but-is-ticking/page2

It is packed in a box, but disassembled (how I got it back from the guy who was supposed to fix it). I'm pretty sure all the little bits are there (chrome buttons, etc) and I know the big parts are there.

I would accept $50 US and you pay shipping. I am in Montana. Give a Private Message with contact info, if you want me to follow up.

majones
2018-03-16, 05:40
My Radio was running continuously on external power but one day it died. I checked the power supply on another Radio and it was fine. I suspected that it may be the internal connection to the power input so I inserted a battery, and whoof my Q3 went up in smoke. So Ive replaced that but it hasnt got the Radio working again, and Im wondering what the best sequence of replacement of items should be assuming (per the SB3 C16 and C20 capacitors) that there is a most likely failure mode. Any advice? I can solder capacitors, but that U2 power amplifier looks beyond my capabilities.

JoeMuc2009
2018-08-14, 00:54
Hi all,

got another failed Radio here, burnt Q3 and short circuit across the power amplifier outputs. However, it turned out that the short circuit continues to exist even after the power amp chip was desoldered.
The owner told me he was not aware of any battery in the device but the battery (original model) was actually in there. Seems that the battery being in there can trigger the self-destruction out nowhere anytime.
So I would recommend everyone to remove the battery for good and forget about it. Many devices seem to fail the moment the battery is inserted, but it might also happen in a power outage when the circuitry switches from external power supply to battery or back after external power is restored. Every one of these transitions is apparently very dangerous for the entire device.
Things around the battery look like an afterthought. Logitech seems to have implemented this part of the circuitry in a hurry. I can just say, do not use it.

Regards,
Joe

SlimChances
2018-08-16, 17:04
Hi all,

got another failed Radio here, burnt Q3 and short circuit across the power amplifier outputs. However, it turned out that the short circuit continues to exist even after the power amp chip was desoldered.
The owner told me he was not aware of any battery in the device but the battery (original model) was actually in there. Seems that the battery being in there can trigger the self-destruction out nowhere anytime.
So I would recommend everyone to remove the battery for good and forget about it. Many devices seem to fail the moment the battery is inserted, but it might also happen in a power outage when the circuitry switches from external power supply to battery or back after external power is restored. Every one of these transitions is apparently very dangerous for the entire device.
Things around the battery look like an afterthought. Logitech seems to have implemented this part of the circuitry in a hurry. I can just say, do not use it.

Regards,
Joe

I have not read the whole thread but your post caught my eye. Will using a battery in the SB Radio pose a fire hazard or is will it just possibly damage the radio? I have used mine on battery and on mains with the battery always inserted for a few years now with no issues. Is this just asking for trouble?

slartibartfast
2018-08-16, 23:31
Hi all,

got another failed Radio here, burnt Q3 and short circuit across the power amplifier outputs. However, it turned out that the short circuit continues to exist even after the power amp chip was desoldered.
The owner told me he was not aware of any battery in the device but the battery (original model) was actually in there. Seems that the battery being in there can trigger the self-destruction out nowhere anytime.
So I would recommend everyone to remove the battery for good and forget about it. Many devices seem to fail the moment the battery is inserted, but it might also happen in a power outage when the circuitry switches from external power supply to battery or back after external power is restored. Every one of these transitions is apparently very dangerous for the entire device.
Things around the battery look like an afterthought. Logitech seems to have implemented this part of the circuitry in a hurry. I can just say, do not use it.

Regards,
JoeThey can can fail without battery so this seems a bit over the top.
https://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?p=861151

https://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?p=909389
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

JoeMuc2009
2018-08-17, 00:53
There's no way of knowing what is going to happen. It's true, the Radio can also fail without ever seeing a battery at all, but from what I read here, most of these incidents involve the battery so that's suspicious.

habee
2019-06-06, 13:37
So after it was working for 2 1/2 years my SB Radio died again. It went dead after it was running for several hours, before it was only used for a few minutes a day. Actually I am waiting for a new TPA but already replaced a blown diode (D6) which was short. Ill keep you updated...

Bye habee

habee
2019-06-08, 03:12
Two Resistors (R328 and R316) are also blown. I think these were 10K Resistors, because the other ones around are. But they are so tiny, its hard to solder....