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Aztek
2008-07-12, 05:57
Hi,

Went to play my SB3 today and it wouldn't start when I pushed the red button on remote. Disconnected rear plug and reinserted expecting to see Logitech logo etc.... Nothing. Repeated 2-3 times with same result. Did notice however that red light behind optical port is on when power connected but that is the only life it seems to have. Any suggestions?

Cheers,
Mike

Aztek
2008-07-12, 06:02
Hi,

Went to use my SB3 today and it didn't start up as usual when I pushed the red button on the remote. I disconnected the power plug at rear of SB3 and reinserted it expecting to see the Logitech logo etc but nothing happened. Repeated 2-3 times with no joy. I did notice that there was a red light glowing behind the optical port when I had the plug connected but that was the only sign of life. Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Thanks,
Mike

avta
2008-07-12, 06:58
Try it one more time the way you described but hold down the Add button on the remote.

Phil Leigh
2008-07-12, 08:01
unplug the power supply, hold down "+" on the remote, keep holding it down and pointing at the SB and reconnect the power supply. This forces a factory reset...

Phil Leigh
2008-07-12, 08:03
if that fails, repeat but hold down "1" instead of +/add to reset the xilinx chip

Aztek
2008-07-12, 15:21
Thanks Phil and Avta - tried both suggestions but to no avail - still not booting up. My SB3 is always plugged in and so is usually slightly warm to touch. It is currently cold suggesting that it is not getting power to the internal power supply perhaps. Guess I am stuck with a dead unit as it is 2.5 years old and outside its warranty - although for the cost it should last longer than that. Worst of all - this is my only source of music now and so it is going to be a quiet house!!!

Do you think it is worth taking it along to an electronics shop for them to look at? If so, what would be the best type of serviceman to work on this - computer tech or tv/audio tech?

Many thanks,
Mike

Wirrunna
2008-07-12, 15:39
Aztek,
The exact same thing happened to my SB3 a week ago. Cold, no display but red LED on in the little square optical link on the back.
So, after trying all the same things that people suggested for you I reluctantly unscrewed the back and measured the volts with my trusty meter - only 3.87, should be 5.00 indicating that the little switch mode PSU had semi failed.
I plugged in a PSU from my second SB3 and all worked again.
I'm now down to one SB3 until I build a new 5 volt power supply as buying a replacement unit in Australia is impossible.
My advice then is to try and borrow a PSU from another SB3 to see if your SB3 is still OK - if you cannot borrow a PSU, then take it to your local Electronics shop and ask them to test the PSU - it should be able to supply 5 volts at 2 amps, they should also be able to rig up a 5 volt supply to test the SB3.

Aztek
2008-07-12, 15:46
Thanks Wirruna - sounds like I have the same or a similar problem - bugger! Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or skills to test as you did so will take a copy of what you have written and take it to a technician. Trouble is - in Wellington New Zealand - there aren't likely to be any quick fixes...

Many thanks indeed for your help.

Wirrunna
2008-07-12, 15:57
Aztek,
My PSU is marked
"GROUP WEST"
Model: AUT-05-1600
Input : 100v-240v 50-60Hz/0.3A
Output: 5v - 1600ma

It is about 2 1/2 years old.

A quick look at last year's Jaycar catalog (264 Taranaki St,Wellington, NZ, phone 801 9005 open Sunday) shows a suitable replacement, cat # MP-3140. (Just kicking myself for not looking in the Jaycar catalog earlier! I'll get one of these next week in Sydney.)

Let us know how you get on.

Aztek
2008-07-12, 16:06
Thanks - mine is exactly the same. So if I understand you correctly - it is the external power supply that is not delivering the required 5v to SB3 therefore resulting in it to be unable to boot up. I guess the fact that there is a red light behind the optical input suggest that at least some power is getting there. Is it possible that the problem is internal or do you think it in your case it is the external power supply that is the problem?

Wirrunna
2008-07-12, 16:20
In my case it was the external supply not giving enough volts or amps.

See my earlier post for a replacement - I added the info in an edit while you were posting.
Take your PSU to Jaycar and get the replacement. Ask them to set up the plug correctly, centre positive. Should cost you about $25NZ and have you going by lunch time !

gusi
2008-07-12, 22:47
Aztec, I also had a supply die on me in Australia. Take the old one to Jaycar, Tandy, Dick Smith, Radioshack or a similar store and they'll find a generic replacement supply for you.

Aztek
2008-07-12, 23:27
Thanks guys! I'll give it a go and hopefully be back in business by next weekend.

Cheers,
Mike

Wirrunna
2008-07-13, 01:53
gusi, how old was your PSU? Going by your forum join date and assuming it died recently, it is the same age as Aztek's and mine - about 2 1/2 years. Maybe there is a problem with these devices on 240 volts after 2 1/2 years continuous operation?
Anyone else had a PSU failure ?

matthijskoopmans
2008-07-13, 03:42
Dick smith should have one in NZ.. I successfully tried this one: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4879db0e02ef9d96273fc0a87f9c0747/Product/View/M9926

and here it is in NZ: http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4879db6d01308690273fc0a87f3b0719/Product/View/M9926

You can start the SB3 with 5V, make sure you set the polarity right.

Cheers

Aztek
2008-07-13, 17:44
Thanks for the link - I picked one up just now and will try tonite. Will it matter that it is only 1 Amp?

gusi
2008-07-13, 20:39
Wirrunna, Mine also died after about 2 years. It only failed under load. So if I put a voltmeter on it it showed up ok.

IIRC the grid in Perth is around 245V perhaps that is at the upper edge of its operating range. We still have overhead power so there are plenty of problems with glitches, lightning and the like.

Aztek
2008-07-13, 23:57
Hi guys - great news! The power supply I bought at Dick Smith's fired my SB3 up straight away. Thanks very much for your help and for pointing me in the right direction.

Just a final question. The power supply from Dick Smith is 5v 1 Amp. Jaycar has a 5v one that is 2 or 2.5 Amps. Would I be better to get this or am I ok running with the one I have?

Once again - thanks a lot

bigjules
2008-07-14, 03:28
Its possible I had a PSU fail after 1 year.. same symptoms as above.. PSU seemed to output 5v under no load..

Because it was under warranty Logitech replaced the whole SB3.

Wirrunna
2008-07-14, 05:21
Aztek, That's good that you are going again.
As far as 1 amp being enough, my feeling is that that will be a bit light and will probably fail sooner rather than later. Over in the audiophools forum if you do a search for "power supply" and have a brief look at some of the threads they are all going for at least 2 amps at 5 volts.
gusi and bigjules, my PSU read 5.01 volts no load, but when plugged in to my SB3 was 3.8 (or what I wrote in the earlier post). The power down the NSW South Coast goes up and down like a yo-yo, anything between 220 and 260v with the occasional minute or two blackout. My pc's and Sony TV are on UPS power, but the modified sine wave UPS output is too crook to run an audio amp, so that and the SB3 are on mains. I bought the Jaycar version of a Kill-a-watt to measure just what various appliances use and one of its functions is voltage.

Aztek
2008-07-14, 15:40
Thanks Wirrunna. I've contacted Jaycar as you suggested and will pick up a 5v regulated power supply @ 2.5 Amps. Interestingly enough - when doing a bit of a search last night to find out about the amps - I came across a number of threads that included failed power supplies at around the 2 year mark and also mostly in Australia. I think you are correct when you suspect that there is an issue with the 230v power supply as the number of failure rates around the 2 year mark in 230v countries to just too coincidental to ignore.

However, for me - I'm just happy to have my music back.....

Thanks for your help.

Wirrunna
2008-07-14, 23:15
Aztek, I just bought a Jaycar MP-3480 5VDC 3A for $A21.95 and plugged it in using the black plug, centre positive, works fine.

Millwood
2008-07-17, 17:39
My 2.5 year old SB3 is also dead! What's going on?

Details.

No display. Still talking to the slimserver till I tried to reset is. But when played from slimserver, no audio.

Its not power - I have two and the other works with either supply, the failed fails with either supply.

Sigh - 2.5 years is too short for a $300 device!

fabads
2015-12-31, 13:27
I know this thread is old ... But your messages & support saved my SB from trash!
I encountered the same issue: no display but the red light of the optical output still working ...
I had an old PSU delivering 5V / 2A. I only had to change the connector and my SB is now working fine.

So ... THANKS TO ALL OF YOU for your help !

elstensoftware
2016-08-17, 03:04
Sorry to up this again...

I tried purchasing a new 5V/2A supply but the SB-end plug is too small, it won't plug into the SB. I noticed this with another adapter with the wrong power rating that I just tried plugging in (and didn't turn on).

Is there a standard size for the SB end I need to look for?

elstensoftware
2016-08-30, 02:50
In the end I just purchased an adapter that was advertised as being for SB3... it worked.

sander
2016-09-05, 10:32
I have 2 SB3s which stopped being reliable and this thread caused me to try them again using them with a power supply I know is good, but their problems were deeper.

One freezes, then reboots about once an hour when playing, the other just dies after a little playing becoming completely dead, to the point you need to unplug it for a little while before it will boot again.

When I first put them away I'd found (and luckily printed) a logitech forum post which only seems to exist currently in a google cache of a static ip at the moment.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?strip=1&q=cache:http%3A%2F%2F208.74.204.120%2Ft5%2FSqueeze box-and-Smart-Radio%2FSqueezebox-Classic-frequent-crash-and-restart%2Ftd-p%2F850154%2Fpage%2F5

The thread mentions changing two of the caps:
"Replacing C16 and C20 solved the issue in my case."

or more elaborately:
"I ordered a bunch of WX and WT series surface mount capacitors (Nichicon brand) from Digikey and installed them this weekend. Took a couple hours and i don't suggest the faint of heart to attempt the repair. One must be careful not to lift the solder pads with too much heat! I replaced all of the capacitors that read questionable on my ESR meter (about 10 of them), and the unit works flasslessy again! Been playing for 72 hours straight without no reboot or hiccup. In the past the unit would reboot within 2 mins.
In summary:
The issue was not the WiFi module, it was the surface mount capacitors drying up over the years, causing points of high resistance in the circuitry."

I'm not quite to that point, or have technical expertise to achieve it, so I'm stick with my existing plan of picking up old SB3's on the cheap (getting a backup SB3 on Wednesday for $25) and maybe making the jump to pico players once all my ip3k players are all dead.

boolittlek
2016-09-29, 13:11
I know this thread is old ... But your messages & support saved my SB from trash!
I encountered the same issue: no display but the red light of the optical output still working ...
I had an old PSU delivering 5V / 2A. I only had to change the connector and my SB is now working fine.

So ... THANKS TO ALL OF YOU for your help !

Same here. I walked into my office a few days ago to a blank display on my SB Classic. I remembered seeing this thread a few days earlier, and after reading the thread and checking my optical outlet for the red light, I ordered a replacement power supply. It's working again--thanks all!

rickwookie
2016-10-08, 08:02
I have 2 SB3s which stopped being reliable and this thread caused me to try them again using them with a power supply I know is good, but their problems were deeper.

One freezes, then reboots about once an hour when playing, the other just dies after a little playing becoming completely dead, to the point you need to unplug it for a little while before it will boot again.

When I first put them away I'd found (and luckily printed) a logitech forum post which only seems to exist currently in a google cache of a static ip at the moment.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?strip=1&q=cache:http%3A%2F%2F208.74.204.120%2Ft5%2FSqueeze box-and-Smart-Radio%2FSqueezebox-Classic-frequent-crash-and-restart%2Ftd-p%2F850154%2Fpage%2F5

The thread mentions changing two of the caps:
"Replacing C16 and C20 solved the issue in my case."

or more elaborately:
"I ordered a bunch of WX and WT series surface mount capacitors (Nichicon brand) from Digikey and installed them this weekend. Took a couple hours and i don't suggest the faint of heart to attempt the repair. One must be careful not to lift the solder pads with too much heat! I replaced all of the capacitors that read questionable on my ESR meter (about 10 of them), and the unit works flasslessy again! Been playing for 72 hours straight without no reboot or hiccup. In the past the unit would reboot within 2 mins.
In summary:
The issue was not the WiFi module, it was the surface mount capacitors drying up over the years, causing points of high resistance in the circuitry."

I'm not quite to that point, or have technical expertise to achieve it, so I'm stick with my existing plan of picking up old SB3's on the cheap (getting a backup SB3 on Wednesday for $25) and maybe making the jump to pico players once all my ip3k players are all dead.

Thanks so much for posting that cached link. I knew I'd seen something about the capacitors before. First Logitech kill the Slim product line, then they erase history with their "forum cleanup"! :mad: Anyway, I think this probably applies to this thread too: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?71334-Squeezebox-v3-keeps-rebooting-please-help (certainly matches my symptoms). I agree though that if the SB is totally dead, always try a new/different PSU first!

Anyway, I've invested in an ESR meter, identified about 10 capacitors that I'm not happy with (although looking at the datasheets just now while searching for replacements, perhaps 8 of those are reading as expected, let's wait and see what values I get from the new ones) but specifically C16 and C20 both give totally bad readings (both read "open circuit" on the meter) and they are also the only two that have noticeable brown discolouration around the base (see the image below after I'd removed them). I'm therefore quite optimistic that this fix may work! They are both 10 μF 16 V 4 mm diameter caps - about 15 pence each.

I'll report back when they turn up and I've fitted them.
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