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Turnandcough
2008-02-13, 10:28
I suspect this may have been posted before but in any case...
I've already changed the stock walwart for a linear PS and am also using an external DAC which was a definite improvement over analog out. I am now considering digital mods in an attempt to "take it to the next level"
Based on your experience what are your opinions on SB3 digital mods(you know the ones)?
Noticeable improvement and worthwhile investment, marginal improvement at best, snake oil?
Thanks

Phil Leigh
2008-02-13, 11:55
IMHO the only really worthwhile mod would be to add a wordclock input to the SB3 and drive it from a wordclock out on your DAC.
I'm of the opinion that things don't get any better than that.
Failing that, I'd look at modding your DAC (what is it?) or maybe you could try the Altmann or Monarchy products between SB and DAC.

None of these changes will come even remotely close (in bang for buck terms) to changing our speakers or sorting out your in-room phase/frequency response using DRC or acoustic treatments.

Turnandcough
2008-02-13, 12:27
IMHO the only really worthwhile mod would be to add a wordclock input to the SB3 and drive it from a wordclock out on your DAC.
I'm of the opinion that things don't get any better than that.
Failing that, I'd look at modding your DAC (what is it?) or maybe you could try the Altmann or Monarchy products between SB and DAC.

None of these changes will come even remotely close (in bang for buck terms) to changing our speakers or sorting out your in-room phase/frequency response using DRC or acoustic treatments.
Thanks for your response.
I went from a Paradisea to a cheap(inexpensive) Beresford DAC. Both have their qualities/drawbacks but the sale of the Paradisea provided me with cashflow for a decent head-amp.
I'm familiar with the Altmann and Monarchy DACs but they are more than I can afford for now. I've read(quickly) about the wordclock in another post but I'm not quite sure how/where it goes and would, therefore, need detailed installation info before ordering one. I'm not much of a DIYer.
BTW - The speakers are also being looked into at the moment.

Phil Leigh
2008-02-13, 12:35
OK - well my personal observation is that the only conceivable area of the SB digital out that can be improved is jitter. Jitter is very low to start with. However, to get it vanishingly low, the clock in the DAC needs to take control of the SB so that the two move in lock-step. This gets rid of the major drawback of the spdif or toslink interface, namely that the receiving device (the DAC in this case) needs to recover the embedded clock signal so that individual slices of the music play back at exactly the right moment in time with no "uncertainty".

This requires a mod to both SB and DAC unless you are lucky enough to already have a DAC with a wordclock out capability (most don't).

This can be done - several mod companies offer this.

I'd love to do it but my system is more complex and right now I don't feel the need since I had my DAC modded.

By the way, the Altmann devices I was referring to aren't their DAC's...its their JISCO and UPCI devices that connect to the input to your existing DAC.
Phil

GuyDebord
2008-02-13, 13:28
IMHO the only really worthwhile mod would be to add a wordclock input to the SB3 and drive it from a wordclock out on your DAC.
I'm of the opinion that things don't get any better than that.
Failing that, I'd look at modding your DAC (what is it?) or maybe you could try the Altmann or Monarchy products between SB and DAC.

None of these changes will come even remotely close (in bang for buck terms) to changing our speakers or sorting out your in-room phase/frequency response using DRC or acoustic treatments.

I completely second this advice, but he forgot to mention to upgrade to a transporter. Dont waste your time $$$ with mods/ all of Phils advice applied to a transporter would be heavenly. Also try to demo power conditioners "shunyata, isotek, nordost...) In my case, it totally lowered the sound floor of my system.

Phil Leigh
2008-02-13, 13:38
Erm - Guy - yes of course you are right... I was thinking mods not upgrade :o)

Deaf Cat
2008-02-13, 14:54
Depending on the psu you have, have/can you line the case of your linear psu with flashing tape?
I was quite supprised to hear a noticable difference.

Oh and an unswitched MK power point helps too :D

I have not got round to trying different mains cables yet for the psu, but that maybe another area to try.

Turnandcough
2008-02-13, 19:01
Depending on the psu you have, have/can you line the case of your linear psu with flashing tape?
I was quite supprised to hear a noticable difference.

Oh and an unswitched MK power point helps too :D

I have not got round to trying different mains cables yet for the psu, but that maybe another area to try.
The PSU is an open frame design(Power One)and for now is not enclosed in a case.
What is the purpose of the flashing tape?

jdbaker
2008-02-13, 22:04
The PSU is an open frame design(Power One)and for now is not enclosed in a case.
What is the purpose of the flashing tape?

It is a grounding issue, D forgot to mention that one end is taped to the PSU and the other end to somewhere on your body, a bit inconvenient but sounds incredible.

zanash
2008-02-14, 01:41
he means ...I think bitumen roof flashing ..this helps damp the case and therefore any possible transmission of vibration to the sb3....

Deaf Cat
2008-02-14, 06:48
Ta Zanash,
this sort stuff, got mine in Wicks though:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/94496/Sealants-Adhesives/Tapes/Insulating-Sealing-Tape/Flashing-Tape-100mm-x-10m;jsessionid=SZJTZKTED0TTSCSTHZOSFFQ

My psu case when bashed with a handle of a screwdriver rang quite nicely, after sticking on the tape, it gives a dull thud, dampens something gubbins wise in side and sounds better to me ;-)

Have not had the balls to take apart my SB yet to see if a similar effect would be achieved :o

zanash
2008-02-15, 03:35
its the same stuff I've used wickses too

Deaf Cat
2008-02-15, 15:52
Hay Zanash, you have a SB don't you?
Have you done anything to the insides of it?