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moshimoro
2007-09-19, 17:44
Hey fellow squeezebox 3 owners,

so i have joined the cool world of wireless music and flaccing. I just purchased some new gear, and I have a dent in the pocket. I have my squeezebox set up with nad 325bee and usher s-520 speakers. my nad is still under 20 hours, and i read somewhere that it takes 20 hours of "burn-in" for real sound quality of the equipment to come out.

Anyhow, long story short, I've playing around with the volume of both the squeezebox and nad, and have found that I only bare listening to the squeezebox through the nad at no more than 77% volume. I usually keep it at 73%. I'm assuming the reason is power. Is it?

I can't afford to pay the $100-$200 price of buying the one's pre-built, and have search the forums on DIY, only the realize that I know nothing about what the heck anyone is saying.

I live in Los Angeles, and if a fellow enthusiast is willing to help me, I would really appreciate it.

SuperQ
2007-09-20, 00:15
my nad is still under 20 hours, and i read somewhere that it takes 20 hours of "burn-in" for real sound quality of the equipment to come out.

Burn-in for electronics is basically a myth. Speakers may take a short amount of time to break-in.. and will degrade over time as the surround and spider wear.

Luvaton
2007-09-20, 15:24
Hey fellow squeezebox 3 owners,

so i have joined the cool world of wireless music and flaccing. I just purchased some new gear, and I have a dent in the pocket. I have my squeezebox set up with nad 325bee and usher s-520 speakers. my nad is still under 20 hours, and i read somewhere that it takes 20 hours of "burn-in" for real sound quality of the equipment to come out.

Anyhow, long story short, I've playing around with the volume of both the squeezebox and nad, and have found that I only bare listening to the squeezebox through the nad at no more than 77% volume. I usually keep it at 73%. I'm assuming the reason is power. Is it?

I can't afford to pay the $100-$200 price of buying the one's pre-built, and have search the forums on DIY, only the realize that I know nothing about what the heck anyone is saying.

I live in Los Angeles, and if a fellow enthusiast is willing to help me, I would really appreciate it.

You can buy an upgraded powersupply here:
http://www.welbornelabs.com/modsandmodules.htm

moshimoro
2007-09-20, 19:44
thanks, but like i said, that is a lot of money that i'm not willing to spend.

crooner
2007-09-22, 08:19
Go to an electronics surplus place and get a linear open frame power supply by Condor or Power One. 5 volts at 3A would be the minimal requirement. You may also want to search eBay for some deals.

Then get a matching enclosure from Context Engineering. They are available at your local Fry's. Some nuts & bolts plus wire, an IEC inlet, fuse and switch are also required. A Dremel tool is also needed to drill the holes in the aluminum case.

A nice little weekend project if you are willing to learn and very cost effective.

I doubt anyone would build you a comparable power supply for less than $200.

mark-e-mark
2007-09-23, 20:34
Go to a used PC supply store. In my city we have a Goodwill computer store, and I have donated there mightily over the years.

Get a power supply module in decent condition, wattage does not matter. Remove the innards keeping the fan, IEC inlet, and case. Insert Condor power supply you picked up on eBay for $20, and solder the IEC power, fan, and a power cable for the Squeezebox. The fan will run slowly and quietly. I think the total is about $40.

It's ghetto, but it definitely works.

moshimoro
2007-09-25, 17:15
alright. well... i wrote down the info i needed. and also printed the 1st 2 pages of the thread titled "DIY Linear Power supply MK!! lots of pics"

These are the supplies that I will try to look for. even though my idea of what they are are based on the pictures.

1) linear open frame 5v-3A (recommended power one or condor)
2) IEC Inlet
3) Fuse (can someone let me know what type or what brand)
4) Switch (what type? what brand?)

are there more links to step by step on how to build it?

zanash
2007-09-27, 01:01
Burn-in for electronics is basically a myth. Speakers may take a short amount of time to break-in.. and will degrade over time as the surround and spider wear.

That is of course your opinion....

others have different ones ....I'm somewhere in between both camps as I've had speakers that took several hundred hours to "burn in" and cables that required none.

If your interested in a power supply I can give you the details or build one for you ....pm me

moshimoro
2007-10-01, 16:51
hmmm... dunno about whether it's (burn-in) true, but after having the NAD for about 2 weeks, things are beginning to sound better. of course, i know that changing gears require a little bit of time to get use to.

i received my power one today. haha, but it's sittin on the floor. i have pm'ed for help. thanks!

dancemanster
2007-10-22, 13:08
Hey fellow squeezebox 3 owners,

so i have joined the cool world of wireless music and flaccing. I just purchased some new gear, and I have a dent in the pocket. I have my squeezebox set up with nad 325bee and usher s-520 speakers. my nad is still under 20 hours, and i read somewhere that it takes 20 hours of "burn-in" for real sound quality of the equipment to come out.

Anyhow, long story short, I've playing around with the volume of both the squeezebox and nad, and have found that I only bare listening to the squeezebox through the nad at no more than 77% volume. I usually keep it at 73%. I'm assuming the reason is power. Is it?

I can't afford to pay the $100-$200 price of buying the one's pre-built, and have search the forums on DIY, only the realize that I know nothing about what the heck anyone is saying.

I live in Los Angeles, and if a fellow enthusiast is willing to help me, I would really appreciate it.

abra kadabra - your a power supply.
actually i have been perusing these pages and am making a battery ps. seems the most logical to me.

S2K
2007-10-27, 05:22
Well I think burn in of modern (intergrated) electronics is indeed a myth. I never heard that a new CPU runs only at full speed after 20 hours of burn in:). It does have effect on tube amps and speakers very much though.

Anyway Iīve build my own linear power supply. You can buy kits (PCB and parts) and solder it yourself. I spend around 30 euros. The case I used was an old computer PSU (i'll post some images later). I didnīt want to buy a expensive case without knowing the linear power would improve sound. Although it still might be a placebo effect I do believe the SB3 sounds better. There is less harshness overall and especially with S sounds. I hope you understand what I mean. Itīs difficult to explain in non native language.

moshimoro
2007-11-06, 17:06
bought the power supply, but still do not know how to put things together. dunno. hopefully, eventually someone is willing to show me more instructions. sorry, i am a total newbie

taloyd
2007-11-08, 20:50
Moshimoro,

1) I can probably help you with the PS wiring, as I'm (somewhat) local.

2) I actually have a nice PS that I bought for my SB3, but then realized that I don't think I need it as I'm exclusively using the digital out.

3) I'm also a big believer in battery power.

cheers,

-tal

maniac
2007-11-11, 19:21
Burn-in for electronics is basically a myth. Speakers may take a short amount of time to break-in.. and will degrade over time as the surround and spider wear.

Not exactly a myth, I had an "accident" of sort a while back with second hand industrial cables being used as speaker wires.

I have NO IDEA about the directionality (another thing that people also consider as myth...) of the cable, and I didn't really think it would matter. So on it goes, and what do you know, it works. It wasn't long before I felt the speaker on the right is muddy and sounds veiled, while the one on the left sounded just fine. that wire was reversed and everything sounds fine again. I really don't know how that worked, but it seems to work like that somehow. I know, speaker signal is AC signal, it shouldn't even know which direction it goes. But that's the result I got, and apparently cable does not acquire this directionality until it had been properly ran in. Another myth? I thought so too, but not after I found it rang true on my stereo equipments.



I would encourage people who have good speaker cables (or at least very BIG and FAT speaker cables, mine was 12ga) to give that a try. Hook the speaker end to your amp, and amp end of the cable to the speaker. It would be an interesting experiment if nothing else. ;)

singleended40
2007-11-12, 12:05
I did build one PS for my SB3 and experienced that you also need to replace all the stock components on your Power One PS like capacitors (get high quality caps), diodes (use Hexfred solft/fast diodes from digikey.com or mouser.com), better wires and especially the output capacitors have to be more than 20,000mF to prevent the main tranformer and diodes getting hot.

moshimoro
2007-11-17, 08:58
Moshimoro,

1) I can probably help you with the PS wiring, as I'm (somewhat) local.

2) I actually have a nice PS that I bought for my SB3, but then realized that I don't think I need it as I'm exclusively using the digital out.

3) I'm also a big believer in battery power.

cheers,

-tal


hey tal! so let's figure out how this can work. i'm excited because after doing several different tweaks for my components I do notice soundstage difference so would really like to see the powersupply changed as well. I am using analog. you said you have one built. do you want to just sell me that one? and for how much

ar-t
2007-11-26, 10:44
Burn-in for electronics is basically a myth. Speakers may take a short amount of time to break-in.. and will degrade over time as the surround and spider wear.

No, it isn't. Try using something with Black Gate caps in it. Notorious for taking a long time to break in.

And popular with the DIY crowd.

iPhone
2007-11-26, 12:53
No, it isn't. Try using something with Black Gate caps in it. Notorious for taking a long time to break in.

And popular with the DIY crowd.

Black Gates Capacitors can not Break-In as they are not mechanical i.e. have no moving parts. They may have some minor need for "Burn-In" once placed in a new project as in several charge and discharge cycles, but again they are going to do their job the second they are placed in the curcuit and charge.

Wombat
2007-11-26, 14:22
Black Gates Capacitors can not Break-In as they are not mechanical i.e. have no moving parts. They may have some minor need for "Burn-In" once placed in a new project as in several charge and discharge cycles, but again they are going to do their job the second they are placed in the curcuit and charge.
I think you mean with "several discharge cycles" only some seconds.
Unfortunately they change sound over a long time. Very varying over the first week and more slowly afterwards. But then i only used them as coupling cap.
This is the most obvious burning-in part i ever used.
And no, i donīt have measurings at hand to prove this. Luckily my ears do tell me.