PDA

View Full Version : Need fast help! - New SB3 wired can't connect to network



Toby
2005-12-12, 11:13
Since 2 hours, I'm trying to connect my new SB3 (wired) to my SlimServer.

I've just unplugged the old (and perfectly running) SB, plugged in the new one and started the setup.

With DHCP I'm getting an IP-Adress outside my network.
Specify an IP-Adress like 192.168.2.18, Subnet 255.255.255.0, Gateway 192.168.2.1 (router), with or without DNS doesn't get the server.
The server IP-Adress is 192.168.2.17.
The message is 'can't connect to slimserver'.

The server is running under Windows XP SP1 and I have a SMC 2804WBR router.

Also I tried everything with the ports (described in http://www.slimdevices.com/pi_faq.html#networking) but nothing worked.

Please help!

mherger
2005-12-12, 11:25
> With DHCP I'm getting an IP-Adress outside my network.

What address does it get? Did you connect it to a switch, the router or
directly to the server?

> The message is 'can't connect to slimserver'.
>
> The server is running under Windows XP SP1 and I have a SMC 2804WBR
> router.

Please verify the firewall: does it only accept connections from the old
SB's ip address?

--

Michael

-----------------------------------------------------------
Help translate SlimServer by using the
StringEditor Plugin (http://www.herger.net/slim/)

bishopdonmiguel
2005-12-12, 11:35
> With DHCP I'm getting an IP-Adress outside my network.

Since the Squeezebox isn't getting a valid DHCP address from the router, it sounds like you have a problem with cabling. I'd check that first. I know you said the older one worked fine but assuming your router acts as a DHCP server, something is not right. As this is a SB3, you should be able to connect to SqueezeNetwork without your server. If you can connect to SqueezeNetwork, then you know your cabling is okay and we can focus on your router as the problem.

Toby
2005-12-12, 11:57
Just plugged in the new SB with the (short) cable delivered directly to the router, the SB was asking for a firmware update (from 26 to 28) and now it is running.

BUT!!! The old ethernet cable (around 10 meters) was fine and it's more than a big problem to change it. That means, I can't change the ethernet cable!

I already told that the old SB was running fine.

What can I do?????

Aaron Zinck
2005-12-12, 12:07
It sounds like the SB3 is being more picky about the quality of the
connection. There has been some discussion to this affect on the forums
over the last couple of weeks or so. It probably isn't aut-negotiating down
to 10mbps for a more stable connection (the old SB1 had only a 10base-t
card). If your long run (10m) was home-made you might try re-crimping the
ends. Sloppy crimping with lots of untwisted wires at either end can cause
a poor connection. Alternatively, you could try picking up a cheap switch
and putting it at the end of your long cable run near the SB3. It might be
able to handle the auto-negotiation better over your poor cable run, then
the SB3 could connect to the switch over a short, high-quality run.

Toby
2005-12-12, 13:13
It sounds like the SB3 is being more picky about the quality of the
connection. There has been some discussion to this affect on the forums
over the last couple of weeks or so. It probably isn't aut-negotiating down
to 10mbps for a more stable connection (the old SB1 had only a 10base-t
card). If your long run (10m) was home-made you might try re-crimping the
ends. Sloppy crimping with lots of untwisted wires at either end can cause
a poor connection. Alternatively, you could try picking up a cheap switch
and putting it at the end of your long cable run near the SB3. It might be
able to handle the auto-negotiation better over your poor cable run, then
the SB3 could connect to the switch over a short, high-quality run.

That's bad, that's really bad!!!
I think you are right. It was selfmade by myself and probably it was a kind of sloppy crimping. For a short while I had hope because I remembered my old switch. Just put in the wrong (!!!) AC apaptor, short light and - over. No more answer from my switch.
So, I think that is not my day today.

There is no hope for the switch, right? I gave him 15V output instead of 7.5V ...
On the other side with the switch I have one more electric source but I want to decrease electric power costs ...

Aaaarggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

I thought right now I'm sitting on my sofa and enjoying my new SB. Bad bad Slim Devices!!! ;-)

Aaron Zinck
2005-12-12, 13:49
Bummer! Sorry to hear you fried your switch.

I hope you can get things worked out...keep us posted as to how things go.

Toby
2005-12-12, 15:39
Bummer! Sorry to hear you fried your switch.

I hope you can get things worked out...keep us posted as to how things go.

Thank you for your sympathy ...

I think this joke (Not the switch! I mean the new RJ45 cable!) costs me around 100 - 150 Euro. I don't have the tools (and the knowledge???) to do it by myself.

... Maybe the Slim Devices Crew comes over to visit me in Cologne/Germany and gives me a hand to fix it ...

We have selfmade biscuits, a stollen and and and ...

So what?

pfarrell
2005-12-12, 16:07
On Mon, 2005-12-12 at 14:39 -0800, Toby wrote:
> I think this joke (Not the switch! I mean the new RJ45 cable!) costs me
> around 100 - 150 Euro. I don't have the tools (and the knowledge???) to
> do it by myself.

Ouch, for that, you can buy the tools. And ends and probably 200 meters
of cable. Here in the States, the main punchdown/crimp tools
are actually fairly cheap, $20 to $40. But you need a wiring tester,
which can verify cross wired connections, etc. Still they are only $40
or so for nice ones.

> ... Maybe the Slim Devices Crew comes over to visit me in
> Cologne/Germany and gives me a hand to fix it ...
> We have selfmade biscuits, a stollen and and and ...

Send airfare and I'm your man.

I know that Germany has lots of suitable geeks that
don't need the airfare. I met a bunch of them
when I was in Dusseldorf. No idea how to find them from
here.

Pat

--
Pat Farrell
http://www.pfarrell.com

Toby
2005-12-12, 16:31
On Mon, 2005-12-12 at 14:39 -0800, Toby wrote:
> I think this joke (Not the switch! I mean the new RJ45 cable!) costs me
> around 100 - 150 Euro. I don't have the tools (and the knowledge???) to
> do it by myself.

Ouch, for that, you can buy the tools. And ends and probably 200 meters
of cable. Here in the States, the main punchdown/crimp tools
are actually fairly cheap, $20 to $40. But you need a wiring tester,
which can verify cross wired connections, etc. Still they are only $40
or so for nice ones.

> ... Maybe the Slim Devices Crew comes over to visit me in
> Cologne/Germany and gives me a hand to fix it ...
> We have selfmade biscuits, a stollen and and and ...

Send airfare and I'm your man.

I know that Germany has lots of suitable geeks that
don't need the airfare. I met a bunch of them
when I was in Dusseldorf. No idea how to find them from
here.

Pat

--
Pat Farrell
http://www.pfarrell.com

Hey Pat, thank you for your hints.

But I did this 'crimping' once before. And it was awful for me! I will have a look.
But, Düsseldorf??? Never!!! It's like - don't know - asking Yale to help Oxford!!!!!
Well, Düsseldorf is only 30 Kilometers away, but I already told my opinion. Sorry to all Düsseldorfer out there ... ;-)

I don't need cross wired connections. So, do I still need a tester?

pfarrell
2005-12-12, 17:09
On Mon, 2005-12-12 at 15:31 -0800, Toby wrote:
> But I did this 'crimping' once before. And it was awful for me! I will
> have a look.
> I don't need cross wired connections. So, do I still need a tester?

How do you know that you did it right?
How do you tell if you accidentally cross wired it?

I found that a testing was critical, maybe it is as much
a comment on my technique in doing the crimping, etc.

Keeping all the tiny wires in the right place is
probably an acquired skill, I have to test to make
sure it is right.

--
Pat
http://www.pfarrell.com/music/slimserver/slimsoftware.html

Toby
2005-12-12, 18:16
Ok!

I bought the stuff for around 23 Euro.
The cable, the connector, the crimping tool and this lsa+ tool.
Probably waiting until christmas till I get this ...

No tester! Too much money! Around 35 Euro.

Let's see ...

Good night

snarlydwarf
2005-12-12, 18:17
I don't need cross wired connections. So, do I still need a tester?

Depending on what you mean by 'cross wired' that may be your problem.

Ethernet cables, especially at 100Mbps, need to be crossed, or, rather, paired. What you'll see at the end of an ethernet cable is like this:

1) Green/White
2) Green
3) Orange/White
4) Blue
5) Blue/White
6) Orange
7) Brown/White
8) Brown

See that weird seperation of the Orange and Orange/White? It matters.

Why? Because those are actually pairs of "TX+" and "TX-", when one goes high, the other goes low, this is used to reduce noise interference. If you pair them wrong, it will work fine and dandy for telephone, will be flaky with 10Mbps ethernet (my machine at work had a cable installed by a phone guy unclear on the correct order... it would work fine until there was "too much" traffic then packet loss would go through the ceiling). I doubt it would work at all at 100Mbps.

If you pair them wrong, basically what you get is a long antenna next to some wires.

Are premade ethernet cables that spendy in Germany? That's bizarre: you can get a 50ft premade cable for $25 at Office Depot (big expensive office supply chain) here. We don't even bother making our own any more: the handeye coordination just isn't worth the trouble when a premade cable is so cheap (and cheaper when you buy from someone other than Office Depot).

MrC
2005-12-12, 18:33
Here's an excellent reference for making Ethernet cables:

http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.asp

A tester is very important, as nobody makes 100% perfect homemade cables. Detecting cable errors when the cable is in service is much more difficult.

Toby
2005-12-13, 05:15
People, you are great!!!

Thank you again for that very fast and professional help from all of you.
People suffering with me, having a new SB and cannot use it. ;-(

My exercise for today was finding sides like this one you gave me (http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.asp). Also I know that somehow I need a tester. I will see where I can borrow one ...

I understand that I need a 568-A Wiring-Connection. That's right, isn't it?

Toby
2005-12-13, 05:17
Depending on what you mean by 'cross wired' that may be your problem.

Ethernet cables, especially at 100Mbps, need to be crossed, or, rather, paired. What you'll see at the end of an ethernet cable is like this:


Thanks for that. Yes, that was a misunderstanding. I thought 'crossed' means this kind of direct connection between 2 PC'S without a router or something like that.

Toby
2005-12-18, 10:39
People,

thank you very much for your help.

At last it was only my awful crimping.
I did it now in that way:
1) Green/White
2) Green
3) Orange/White
4) Blue
5) Blue/White
6) Orange
7) Brown/White
8) Brown
and everything was alright ...

A few Euro for the crimping tool and the connectors, that's all.

And the best is: I did it by myself!!!

Thanks again to all of you, answered to this thread.

Merry Christmas!