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tdehan
2018-11-17, 07:28
My Classic Slimdevice appears to have stopped working. It continually reboots itself. I've reset it a number of times but it keeps rebooting after so many minutes of play. I've had it for about 15 years or longer. Perhaps it is time to let it go. However, wondering if there is a place I can send it for repair?

26016

ModelCitizen
2018-11-17, 07:33
Have you tried seeing that the wireless card is properly seated? It's a fairly common issue and can cause this behaviour when it becomes a bit loose.

tdehan
2018-11-17, 10:23
Have you tried seeing that the wireless card is properly seated? It's a fairly common issue and can cause this behaviour when it becomes a bit loose.


Are you suggesting taking the Squeezebox apart? Not sure how it would become loose as it's never been moved since I got it other than to dust.

ModelCitizen
2018-11-17, 11:45
Up to you but it's very simple to take apart and push the card in securely. All you need is a small screwdriver. 5 mins max.

alfista
2018-11-17, 12:46
Could be the WiFi board, but my money is on the power supply. Generic replacements aren't prohibitively expensive.

tdehan
2018-11-17, 12:49
Up to you but it's very simple to take apart and push the card in securely. All you need is a small screwdriver. 5 mins max.

If you are referring to the 2 small screws in the back, they are hex and I tried to loosen them and they will not budge.

tdehan
2018-11-17, 12:50
Could be the WiFi board, but my money is on the power supply. Generic replacements aren't prohibitively expensive.

I don't think so. I have 3 other Squeezeboxes and tried it on 2 of their power supplies and the same thing happens.

philippe_44
2018-11-17, 13:36
I don't think so. I have 3 other Squeezeboxes and tried it on 2 of their power supplies and the same thing happens.

As other said, there are 3 options

1/ External power supply ==> you tried PSU from other SB and it still does not work, so excluded
2/ WiFi card ==> remove the 2 screws on the back, that frees up the front cover. Then you have 4 other screws to release the PCB and in the back of it, you have the WiFi card that can be removed by just pulling the 2 small levers right/left. Don't bother removing the antenna cables, just connect an ethernet cable and the power and see if it works
3/ If it fails on ethernet, then 99% chance this is the electrolytic capacitors inside that have failed. It's a very typical failure that manifests itself by this reboot problem. I just fixed 2 SB3 recently by changing them all. You should then contact @JoeMcu2009 if you are in EU as he can fix that for you if you want to.

Just a last "request": if you don't want to fix it, don't throw it away, others will be happy to get a non-working SB3 and either fix it or use it for parts

tdehan
2018-11-17, 14:40
As other said, there are 3 options

1/ External power supply ==> you tried PSU from other SB and it still does not work, so excluded
2/ WiFi card ==> remove the 2 screws on the back, that frees up the front cover. Then you have 4 other screws to release the PCB and in the back of it, you have the WiFi card that can be removed by just pulling the 2 small levers right/left. Don't bother removing the antenna cables, just connect an ethernet cable and the power and see if it works
3/ If it fails on ethernet, then 99% chance this is the electrolytic capacitors inside that have failed. It's a very typical failure that manifests itself by this reboot problem. I just fixed 2 SB3 recently by changing them all. You should then contact @JoeMcu2009 if you are in EU as he can fix that for you if you want to.

Just a last "request": if you don't want to fix it, don't throw it away, others will be happy to get a non-working SB3 and either fix it or use it for parts

I just tried plugging it into an ethernet cable and after a few minutes it rebooted. So, it doesn't appear to be the power supply or the wireless card.

slartibartfast
2018-11-17, 14:42
I just tried plugging it into an ethernet cable and after a few minutes it rebooted. So, it doesn't appear to be the power supply or the wireless card.Did you remove the wireless card first?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

bpa
2018-11-17, 15:13
I just tried plugging it into an ethernet cable and after a few minutes it rebooted. So, it doesn't appear to be the power supply or the wireless card.

A faulty/dying wireless card will reboot the player even if not using wireless.

tdehan
2018-11-17, 15:43
Did you remove the wireless card first?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I can't get the screws out

mrw
2018-11-17, 16:54
I can't get the screws out
A torx #10 fit mine quite nicely.

tdehan
2018-11-19, 15:11
A torx #10 fit mine quite nicely.

I got the screws out and removed and reset the wireless card. Same thing happens. It reboots after a few minutes. I then took the wireless card out and plugged an ethernet cable to it and the same thing happens. It reboots after a few minutes.

What's the next repair I can try? a previous post says to replace the electrolytic capacitors. Is this the only one?

26020

thanks

mrw
2018-11-19, 18:46
I got the screws out and removed and reset the wireless card. Same thing happens. It reboots after a few minutes. I then took the wireless card out and plugged an ethernet cable to it and the same thing happens. It reboots after a few minutes.

What's the next repair I can try? a previous post says to replace the electrolytic capacitors. Is this the only one?



As mine was 'repaired' by acquiring a replacement PSU, I don't have any further suggestion ! But there have been recent posts on the forum pointing to some expertise.

Long shot: I know you verified with two other apparently OK PSUs, but might they be a bit old in the tooth ? If you can get access to an adjustable bench top PSU you might carefully feed it from that and see if the problem persists. I set a maximum current limit before attaching the bench top PSU.

I recall that the SB took up to about 0.8A at some point during its start up, and did not fully power up with input voltage much less than 5V. In reality I probably started with a maximum current of, say, 0.25A to start with, and a lower voltage, and worked my way up to successful operation. So a new PSU solved it.

Caution: I seem to recall that there is power to the display at a relatively high voltage, more than 50V, so take appropriate precautions before you poke around or handle it with the covers off.

philippe_44
2018-11-19, 20:09
I got the screws out and removed and reset the wireless card. Same thing happens. It reboots after a few minutes. I then took the wireless card out and plugged an ethernet cable to it and the same thing happens. It reboots after a few minutes.

What's the next repair I can try? a previous post says to replace the electrolytic capacitors. Is this the only one?

thanks

Unfortunately, you'll have to replace a lot of the Surface Mounted Capacitors that are all over the PCB (the silver cylinders). There are ~20 of them, you could in theory selectively replace them, but it's better to do them all. I did that on two boards successfully recently. If you don't have experience siwth SMD soldering, I don't advice doing it yourself, instead contact @JoeMuc2009 (See here https://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?109775-Squeezebox-Classic-(SB3)-Repair-Considerations if you are in EU). As said before, if you don't want to have it done, at least don't recycle it, sell it or give here or on ebay to somebody that wants to fix it.

tdehan
2018-11-21, 09:12
As mine was 'repaired' by acquiring a replacement PSU, I don't have any further suggestion ! But there have been recent posts on the forum pointing to some expertise.

Long shot: I know you verified with two other apparently OK PSUs, but might they be a bit old in the tooth ? If you can get access to an adjustable bench top PSU you might carefully feed it from that and see if the problem persists. I set a maximum current limit before attaching the bench top PSU.

I recall that the SB took up to about 0.8A at some point during its start up, and did not fully power up with input voltage much less than 5V. In reality I probably started with a maximum current of, say, 0.25A to start with, and a lower voltage, and worked my way up to successful operation. So a new PSU solved it.

Caution: I seem to recall that there is power to the display at a relatively high voltage, more than 50V, so take appropriate precautions before you poke around or handle it with the covers off.

I don't believe the issue is the PSU. I have 4 other working Squeezeboxes and have tried the failed unit on all 4 power supplies.

philippe_44
2018-11-21, 22:53
I don't believe the issue is the PSU. I have 4 other working Squeezeboxes and have tried the failed unit on all 4 power supplies.

As said above, I really do think this is the capacitors on the motherboard

sgmlaw
2018-11-25, 19:45
I agree with Phillipe on this one. If you pulled the wi-fi card and it is still rebooting, then it is likely the mainboard.

The output couplers are the typical cap failure point on these. And that would not cause this problem. If you want to take a blind stab without deeper circuit testing, try replacing the conventional radial electrolytics. SMD electrolytics tend to have better seal integrity than larger conventional types. The industry service life of an electrolytic properly spec’ed should be 15-20 years. But ones sourced from a lesser quality manufacturer and occasionally even a top-tier Nichicon or Sprague have been known to fail prematurely.

A complete recap of a classic is not worth the effort, IMO. The SMD ones can be a PITA to work with unless you have the right iron and an experienced touch. You’re going to invest around $20 throwing parts at a unit now worth $75, with no assurance of success. And one with enough mileage on it to requre a full recap means the display may be closer to the end than the beginning.

If the unit has had any prior work done on it, double check for cold joints and overheated/lifted traces and pads. That kind of flaw can also cause intermittants and spontaneous reboots.

If you can say goodbye to it and have the funds, the Touch is a decidedly better player and a more reliable one, IMO.

philippe_44
2018-11-25, 19:57
I agree with Phillipe on this one. If you pulled the wi-fi card and it is still rebooting, then it is likely the mainboard.

A complete recap of a classic is not worth the effort, IMO. The SMD ones can be a PITA to work with unless you have the right iron and an experienced touch. You’re going to invest around $20 throwing parts at a unit now worth $75, with no assurance of success. And one with enough mileage on it to requre a full recap means the display may be closer to the end than the beginning.



The one good thing with the Classic MB is that you can remove the SMD caps with the "twisting" method. It works, no damage, the PCB pads & traces are strong enough so it makes it super easy and fast. Having said that, resoldering the new ones can be difficult as space is limited for a few of them and you need to proceed in the right order. I personally did that with a combination of hot air gun and soldering iron. The whole thing is a ~60 minutes job. But if you have no experience doing that sort of things, it will be too difficult. As said before, if you don't want it, sell it for parts on eBay, don't scrap it!