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dpotts
2017-04-25, 13:49
After a power outage, I found that my controller wouldn't boot. It would only cycle through a sequence of flashing the button lights on and off, ending with a brief appearance of the Logitech logo in the display, then begin the cycle again. Replacing the battery seemed to fix the problem, but after two weeks I suddenly found that the battery is run down and won't charge in the controller.

If I remove the battery and set the controller in the charging cradle, the button lights all flash on and off. Thus, the controller is not usable when sitting in the cradle—which I thought it was supposed to be. Does this mean my controller is kaput?

I have tried disassembling the controller and putting it back together, but this ritual produced no change in behavior.

The charger is producing 5 volts at the contacts, and >250 mA, which is all that my tester can read. The output is supposed to be "2 Amps max." Is it conceivable that the charger is producing the requisite number of volts but not enough amps?

dpotts
2017-05-08, 18:47
I tried replacing the adapter, and so far so good. After a few days, the controller battery has not lost its charge, which is what was happening before. If anyone else has a similar problem, this is definitely worth a try.

The very same adapter is currently OEM'd by Cisco for a line of telephones. Search on the adapter part number PSM11R-050, and you'll find it.

kidhazy
2017-07-19, 16:54
I think I've got a similar problem with a dead/dying adapter. I've got 2 controllers and chargers, 1 charger works with both controllers, the 2nd measures 5V, but just won't charge - it has a similar flash/power-on/power-off cycle on the controller.

I'll look to find a similar replacement adapter (I'm in Australia, so will need to source one with appropriate plugs).

Was the replacement easy? Did you simply splice the output wires into the old wires, or resolder at the cradle circuit board? I'm assuming there's only 2 wires (+ and -) coming from the adapter.

Edit: I should have asked - assuming I can get any replacement adapter that matches the original voltage and amps, would that be appropriate to use, or is there anything else I need to check/confirm?

Thanks.

edwin2006
2017-07-19, 22:23
Check polarity of plug (inside or outside negative)

Giza2020
2018-01-12, 10:26
Hi guys.. I know this is an old thread.. but anyone got advise on how to open the cradle to find faults or is it brute force?

Redrum
2018-01-14, 07:43
Giza, I asked that a while back and never really got an answer.

My charger wasn't working despite measuring 5vdc at the pins in the base. Perhaps it wasn't able to deliver the needed current though.

Anyhow, as mentioned above, I bought a linksys charger and spliced it to the cradle, and that fixed the issue. Cheap fix.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Linksys-Cisco-5V-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Charger-PSM11R-050-Router-Modem-VOIP/401111892747?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=670644952419&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Jim

Giza2020
2018-01-14, 12:52
Thanks Jim
I'm sure I have a spare 5v 0.2a or lower psu somewhere... I'll give it a try..appreciate the advise.

local.bin
2018-03-02, 09:28
Thanks for the tips in this thread.

One of my controllers started doing the same and I thought it was the battery, which as stated seemed to work, only to find after a few days the same problem.

I am going to see if the other cradle charges it, to confirm its the other ones power supply.

Thanks again.

Mike Meyer
2019-02-04, 09:48
When you guys are 'splicing to the cradle', are you opening up the bottom of the bottom or are you cutting the wire(s) an inch or two outside the cradle? Just trying to figure out if I'm up to this. :)

A picture would be excellent!

Thanks.

Redrum
2019-02-04, 09:56
I cut and spliced the cable, as you say, anywhere outside the base. Two wires, soldered, shrink wrap over each solder joint and larger shrink over the two shrinks. I'll look around and see which controller I fixed and if I find it, I'll post a picture, although, not allot to see.

One thing, my old "worked" in that you could read voltage. So, I just used a DMM to check polarity on the old and the new (i.e. what color wires/pins in cradle is +/-) before and after the I did the swap. If your old cradle doesn't work at all I can measure one for you to tell you which pin is which.

Jim

Redrum
2019-02-04, 10:05
26686

nothing special - about 8" from base, but that won't matter unless a wire is broken.. Like I said, check insure polarity, cut, solder, shrink over each wire, then bigger shrink over both.

Mike Meyer
2019-02-04, 17:22
Thanks Jim, I appreciate the additional information.

My scenario is identical to what the OP described in the first post.