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  1. #21
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    17

    Brick remained brick

    Hi,

    I should have reported this much earlier. At the very end, the conclusion is that the boom is dead. I got myself another second hand, and it works well.
    For about a year now, I'm the proud owner of 5 working booms ...
    and one dead one I can strip things from if something goes bad with wifi unit, drivers, casing, remote, button unit ...

    In the last year, 2 power supplies died on me. (I used the one of the dead boom the first time, and the second time I had to find a replacement power unit).

    I bought 2, to have one available. Price/Quality is appropriate to my opinion.

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    275
    One of my Booms has just gone the same way, with nothing seeming to work. Wifi is out but it wont boot and only have the front lights illuminating.

    Anyone make any further progress on this at all?

    Thanks in advance

  3. #23
    Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Marktoberdorf, Germany
    Posts
    71

    Let's collect cases of dead Boom units (keyboard illumnated, otherwise dead)

    Tried a lot but it's all a big FAIL. I really love the Boom concept but it's annoying that each one may just fail from one minute to the next and never return.
    I have the second unit of this kind now. Got the first one dirt cheap off eBay and, as I neither had any service info nor another Boom for comparison, I made quite some mess out of it. Even ended up trying to replace the processor because I suspected it of having fractured solder balls, but with little experience I screwed it up completely. The board is now a donor, and all other parts of it likewise.
    Now the second unit that I recently bought behaves just the same:


    • powering up just illuminates the keyboard backlight
    • the unit does not react to any buttons pushed (so any form of factory/Xilinx/other reset is useless)
    • no ethernet connectivity (same for WiFi of course)
    • no display (neither the filament wires glow faintly as they used to, nor is there anything shown on the display)
    • no sound
    • no reaction to IR remote control (except at the moment of powering up where it prevents the keyboard illumination)
    • unit stays rather calm in comparison, and consumes way less power
    • this situation appears out of nowhere
    • the power supply is not to blame as it flawlessly powers other Booms


    I now have multiple other Booms available for comparison but I found nothing so far. All the crucial voltages are at least close enough, nothing there to explain why one Boom is not turning on while the other is. Measured and compared voltages in ~50 spots but everything looks fine. Reseated the WiFi board, also tried to run the mainboard without the WiFi board in place, tried all sorts of resets. Took a Flir camera to find any excessive heat spots but none can be found except the usual suspects. I noticed though that a working Boom gets considerably warmer in most areas.
    The only difference in the broken one, compared to a working one, is that some voltages are not turning on, probably because they activate only after the Boom processor has finished booting. Also looked for shorted capacitors and missing parts (I had cases where parts actually fell off the board!) - no avail.

    Looks like the processor gets stuck well before being ready to accept any commands. Like it does not get a clock frequency or a voltage rail is missing. This is rather hard to measure because most pins are covered due to the nature of BGA soldering, and the other side of the board is usually covered by the display, making it hard to probe anything there.
    Today I tried to replace the CPU, using way better equipment than last time, and presumably with more success. I am confident the soldering job worked out well, the new processor is spot on in the right position and has the same (low) clearance from the board in all places. So I am basically positive all processor contacts reach the board.
    Just for kicks, while the CPU was off, I powered the board and found that the behavior is exactly the same as before: keyboard backlight on, nothing else. So the unit is basically braindead, no matter whether a CPU is present or not. Needless to say, putting the new CPU did not help, even though the replacement process went smoothly.
    I am just a hobbyist, not an electronics engineer - unfortunately! No idea how to go on from here. And I think I went rather far, but no compensation. I need to confess this is way beyond my skills. The fact that lots of SMD components on the board cannot be identified by their marking (even Google does not know them) adds well to the frustration.
    It is practically safe to assume the Boom mainboard has a JTAG interface somewhere. It might help one of the experienced to learn at which point the processor is failing. But you would have to know and understand the firmware, the processor instructions, and a lot of the Boom architecture to make any sense out of it. No chance to get there without any documentation (at least for me).

    Some observations I made, maybe others can verify:


    • the display filament power (outer three pins on each side) goes up to ~3V when the power supply gets connected, but slowly drops to 0V. It should have stable 5V on the left and ~2.5V on the right. Seems to me like a short is detected during power-up, and large parts of the circuitry are immediately shut down
    • the +55V display grid supply pin (1st pin on the left of the 12-pin block) is at 0V all the time. Probably the HV generator is not turning on because the CPU never tells it to
    • likewise, a 1.5V voltage detected in a working boom at C185 (amplifier section, I guess) never turns on in the defective one


    There are multiple threads in this forum covering the same issue. Sorry if anybody gets annoyed I just started yet another one but I imagine it might help to discuss this matter in a dedicated thread. And "Boom suddenly died" is pretty close to what people affected will look for.
    So this is for the people who could not recover their Boom with a built-in reset function or reseating the WiFi board, or replacing the power supply. Logitech won't help us any longer. Let's try to help each other. I still feel the Boom is worth it.
    Last edited by JoeMuc2009; 2017-02-03 at 14:13.
    1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
    5x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
    7x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
    1x Transporter
    1.5x Controller (one waiting for repair)
    1.5x Touch (one waiting for repair)

  4. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    275
    Wow, thats a very comprehensive piece and very informative, thank you.

    I'll certainly keep my Boom protected and safely stored, in case others more capable than I electronically make any further progress

    Cheers

  5. #25
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    9

    Boom suddenly died

    Joe,

    Short of providing a schematic with your voltage measurements on them, you
    did an excellent job of documenting your Book's failure.

    I started to read into your story, pieces of my own story, that e is an
    obviously skilled person but us his vision still up to the surface mount
    parts? Your story kept going and showed me that wasn't the problem, but
    had it been, I can tell you how difficult to admit I could no longer see
    well enough to do circuit board work because of retinal detachment suffered
    because of weakness of my eyes because of retinopathy of prematurely which
    I had at birth. I can't see scorch marks, cracked diodes, and other things.

    Bottom line: I had to accept I could no longer do what I used to do.
    Difficult, it really is.

    I really wish someone would buy the Boom product from Logitech and expand
    it. A automobile radio with wide bandwidth AM Stereo, and FM Stereo, with
    excellent sensitivity on both bands, complete with WiFi, Bluetooth and a
    Solid State Drive and suitable operating system to run Logitech Media
    Server. Of course the unit would have bi-amp output bothline level and 8
    ohm powered output of suitable power and various speakers configurations
    available.

    I can see a market for this unit if no one else can.

    Now if I could only figure out how to sync the car server with the home
    server with rsync.

    Best wishes,

    David


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