Are there any cheap options for a Better Touch Power Supply?

[JohnSwenson]

That looks like the correct set of parts.

For building it there are many ways to go. One of the recent photos online used terminal strips and soldered the parts to that. It works very well but takes some room in the box.

Personally I would get a piece of perfboard that is big enough to fit everything (except the transformer and choke), including room for the heatsink. I just stick the pins of the parts through the holes in the perfboard and use bare tinned wire on the back side to connect the parts up. It's usually possible to come up with a parts placement so no wires have to cross over each other. With this design I would use at least 18 gauge wire. I don't go wacko with the wire, I just buy some 18 gauge tinned solid core wire at my local Fry's and strip the insullation off and solder it up. Leave the innsullation on of you need to cross wires.

The 330 ohms resistor and .022uf cap solder directly onto the transformer pins

Use a drill to enlarge holes for the heatsink pins and for mounting holes in the corners. I usually use nylon standoffs in the corners.

I have built so many power supplies I don't have one built this way of this design right now. The one I'm running my Touch off right now is done using the terminal strip screwed into a piece of plywood approach. It doesn't look very nice, but it works!

John S.

[32db]

I build that PSU to. I thougt I posted this yesterday, but it Isn't there ?? So, here it is again.

Temporaly you see two output cables with a different powerplug for testing. One for the Touch, one for my Lindemann DAC (I do not use them at the same time).
The CR combination has been soldered directly on the transfo. Cables are tightly twisted. At the underside of the pcb, components are connected with a continuous wire. The diodes are mounted per two on a recycled heat sink (not really necessary, but ...). The regulator heatsink is minimal (smaller than the one prescribed); it warms up pretty much, but not too hot. Perhaps I will still change it.
Some components are secured with silicone for safety and against vibration.

The most important parts I got from Digikey. I think it's best to order from the Digikey site from your country, if it exists (digikey.dk?). Remember prices are without TVA.
237-1251-
159ZJ-
497-4627-5-
LT1084CT-5#PBF-
P6664-
P12415-SC1051-

Other components I ordered from Conrad.be. For you, Conrad.de will be the best perhaps.
547044 Black Panduit
531286 Heat-shrink tubing
546586 Fastener cordgrip preassembled
530753 EURO-PCB 160 X 100
540394 Aluminium mounting clip
502161 Split toroid core
520403 Half shell case GSS03
Switch
Led + R - R depends if led is on entrance or output.
Heat sink for regulator and evtl diodes
602094 Shielded mains cable
Powerplug for Touch
Silver solder
Isolation for mounting of diodes
Fuse: I used a 200mA slow in the mains

Both sites offer free delivery under certain conditions.

By the way, Conrad offers a good mains filter DIY-module for only €9,90 (max. 4A). But I build one myself of which I think it's better (based on the one from the Lampizator site). Three mains outlet in a cabinet, each with a filter. Pictures if desired.

[beetof]

I build that PSU. Pictures attached.
Temporaly you see two output cables with a different powerplug for testing. One for the Touch, one for my Lindemann DAC (I do not use them at the same time).
The CR combination has been soldered directly on the transfo. Cables are tightly twisted. At the underside of the pcb, components are connected with a continuous wire. The diodes are mounted per two on a recycled heat sink (not really necessary, but ...). The regulator heatsink is minimal (smaller than the one prescribed); it warms up pretty much, but not too hot. Perhaps I will still change it.
Some components are secured with silicone for safety and against vibration.

The most important parts I got from Digikey. I think it's best to order from the Digikey site from your country, if it exists (digikey.dk?). Remember prices are without TVA.
237-1251-
159ZJ-
497-4627-5-
LT1084CT-5#PBF-
P6664-
P12415-SC1051-

Other components I ordered from Conrad.be. For you, Conrad.de will be the best perhaps.
547044 Black Panduit
531286 Heat-shrink tubing
546586 Fastener cordgrip preassembled
530753 EURO-PCB 160 X 100
540394 Aluminium mounting clip
502161 Split toroid core
520403 Half shell case GSS03
Switch
Led + R - R depends if led is on entrance or output.
Heat sink for regulator and evtl diodes
602094 Shielded mains cable
Powerplug for Touch
Silver solder
Isolation for mounting of diodes
Fuse: I used a 200mA slow in the mains

Both sites offer free delivery under certain conditions.

By the way, Conrad offers a good mains filter DIY-module for only €9,90 (max. 4A). But I build one myself of which I think it's better (based on the one from the Lampizator site). Three mains outlet in a cabinet, each with a filter. Pictures if desired.

My first experience of the PSU, you can find here (bottom):
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showth...Supplies/page8

[Rosewind]

Thanks guys!

Very helpful indeed!

I wonder what the part number is for the black cat?
And what the sq effect of that is?

Best wishes,
Peter

[Apesbrain]

There's also this:

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGP100

Which just appeared in the most recent AA catalog. Not sure if it would work with the Touch, but looks promising and price is right.

[bobertuk]

I build that PSU. Pictures attached.
Temporaly you see two output cables with a different powerplug for testing. One for the Touch, one for my Lindemann DAC (I do not use them at the same time).
The CR combination has been soldered directly on the transfo. Cables are tightly twisted. At the underside of the pcb, components are connected with a continuous wire. The diodes are mounted per two on a recycled heat sink (not really necessary, but ...). The regulator heatsink is minimal (smaller than the one prescribed); it warms up pretty much, but not too hot. Perhaps I will still change it.
Some components are secured with silicone for safety and against vibration.

The most important parts I got from Digikey. I think it's best to order from the Digikey site from your country, if it exists (digikey.dk?). Remember prices are without TVA.
237-1251-
159ZJ-
497-4627-5-
LT1084CT-5#PBF-
P6664-
P12415-SC1051-

Other components I ordered from Conrad.be. For you, Conrad.de will be the best perhaps.
547044 Black Panduit
531286 Heat-shrink tubing
546586 Fastener cordgrip preassembled
530753 EURO-PCB 160 X 100
540394 Aluminium mounting clip
502161 Split toroid core
520403 Half shell case GSS03
Switch
Led + R - R depends if led is on entrance or output.
Heat sink for regulator and evtl diodes
602094 Shielded mains cable
Powerplug for Touch
Silver solder
Isolation for mounting of diodes
Fuse: I used a 200mA slow in the mains

Both sites offer free delivery under certain conditions.

By the way, Conrad offers a good mains filter DIY-module for only €9,90 (max. 4A). But I build one myself of which I think it's better (based on the one from the Lampizator site). Three mains outlet in a cabinet, each with a filter. Pictures if desired.

My first experience of the PSU, you can find here (bottom):
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showth...Supplies/page8

I pretty much built the same power supply for my Touch last week - I assume you built to the JohnSwenson design. I followed his design exactly apart from using the larger Triad transformer which he suggests using for 5amp output.

I haven't put heatsinks on the Schottky diodes & no fancy on/off switches or power indicator diodes either

The power supply does seem to make a difference compared to using the stock supply - I have no idea why! My system sounds less edgy or aggressive - which is the way I like it. There's a lot of SMP's around my house which may be injecting noise into the mains - who knows!

I use a plastic case supplied by Maplin Electronics. I couldn't get a decent aluminum case at a reasonable price that was large enough to accommodate the bigger transformer (much bigger!).

Bob

[Rosewind]

Beetof.

So are you using the John Swenson design or the Logitech Wall Wart?

Bob.
I see some interesting DIY projects in your signature. A modded Nap 250 and a Starfish DIY pre. Hmmm. Are you on PFM?
----------------
I am about ready to buy the "ingredients," only I am such a noob that I don't know how many of each part to get. But I'll take a hard look at it in a moment.

I just had my first soldering and de-soldering session and I think that John Swenson's psu will just be the kind of project that I can manage to finish in style at this point. I've got all the tools, bar a lab psu, and will have a few test sessions before I go on to the real stuff.

Best wishes,
Peter

[JohnSwenson]

There's also this:

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGP100

Which just appeared in the most recent AA catalog. Not sure if it would work with the Touch, but looks promising and price is right.

That supply is a 12V design, do NOT use it with the TOUCH!

John S.

[bobertuk]

Beetof.

So are you using the John Swenson design or the Logitech Wall Wart?

Bob.
I see some interesting DIY projects in your signature. A modded Nap 250 and a Starfish DIY pre. Hmmm. Are you on PFM?
----------------
I am about ready to buy the "ingredients," only I am such a noob that I don't know how many of each part to get. But I'll take a hard look at it in a moment.

I just had my first soldering and de-soldering session and I think that John Swenson's psu will just be the kind of project that I can manage to finish in style at this point. I've got all the tools, bar a lab psu, and will have a few test sessions before I go on to the real stuff.

Best wishes,
Peter

Hi Peter,

Yes, I'm using the John Swenson designed power supply. Good luck with you build and I only purchased the required number of components - they are fairly robust so you should be OK. Remember that you will need 4 of the Schottky rectifier diodes.

I'm on PFM but not regularly now. My NAP 250 uses the bare pcb power boards supplied by 'Avondale' - I sourced all the components through Farnell and Radio Spares and took a long time to build the them (very carefully )

I also built the Starfish designed by Jiiim using his latest BOM sourcing components through Farnell & Radio Spares again. I went straight to the full build and Jiiim was a real source of help and inspiration through PFM and via email. You would probably need contact him via PFM to get hold of his email address. I have a NAIM 32 pre a NAIM 72 pre and a NAIM Hi-CAP but exclusively use the Starfish powered by the Hi-Cap.

The modded NAP 250 and Starfish have been in use solidly for at least two years now and I really haven't looked back. Both suit my ears and are excellent in use.

Best wishes

Bob

[beetof]

Hey Peter,
How's the build? Success?
For the moment I'm using the Logitech PSU again, since I will take the Swenson to a shop for listening to the touch and the Lindemann dac with that psu on a reeeally good system.

B.t.w. a cat will always favor sq; a black one will minimize noise (really black background).