Specifications for Duet Reciever

[Hildebrandt]

Been looking for the specifications for the reciever - specifically the power drain (watts) standby and active...
Can anyone assist with links/info???

Thx...

[SuperQ]

I don't think the draw is in the specs, but I've heard the number 3-4 watts before. There is no difference for standby, since it needs to stay in communication with the server.

[Hildebrandt]

I don't think the draw is in the specs, but I've heard the number 3-4 watts before. There is no difference for standby, since it needs to stay in communication with the server.

3-4 watts.. hmm.. If it's turned off/on by the controller it doesn't really have to stay in communication with the server - WOL should do it...
I was kinda hoping someone here had access to a meter and could measure it...

[Mnyb]

3-4 watts.. hmm.. If it's turned off/on by the controller it doesn't really have to stay in communication with the server - WOL should do it...
I was kinda hoping someone here had access to a meter and could measure it...

Not really, both the controller and the old fashion ir remotes communicates with SqueezeCenter or Squeezenetwork which then controls your receiver or other player(s).

But the documentation lacks technical data. In power use you have to include the losses in the power supply to. Interesting would also be how much the charching cradle draws with no controller in it, and how much juice the controller uses.

[Rimmer100]

I happen to have one of those electricity meters sitting by my desk where you can plug things in and find what power is being used, so here is what it is saying:

Receiver - Connected to server but not playing (Dull white) - 3/4 Watts (Flicks between the two)

Receiver - Connected to server playing (Bright white) - 4/5 Watts

Receiver - Standby(No light) - 4 Watts (This is steady which is weird compared to the earlier reading)

I am based in the UK so have 240v electricity.

I'll check the docking station in a bit.

[Rimmer100]

Right the docking station.

With no remote in it - 2w (it seems that the meter reads 1W with nothing plugged into it)

With a remote in it but not turned on - 4w

With a remote in it and turned on - 2w


I think it seems to be pretty good at knowing when the remote is charged and not drawing and extra power that it doesn't need. Either that or the power meter I am using can't cope with reading such small fluctuations.

Hope this was of some use!

[aubuti]

Receiver - Connected to server but not playing (Dull white) - 3/4 Watts (Flicks between the two)

Receiver - Connected to server playing (Bright white) - 4/5 Watts

Receiver - Standby(No light) - 4 Watts (This is steady which is weird compared to the earlier reading)

I am based in the UK so have 240v electricity.

It's the same with 120v.

[Hildebrandt]

This is great!!! Thx guys!!!
I contacted Logitech support for an answer - they just sent me to a standard page w. specifications... Where the info isn't stated.. So now the question is with their "tier 2" customer support... whatever that is...

[jmschnur]

What is the operiating temp spec for the receiver?

Joel

[Mnyb]

What is the operiating temp spec for the receiver?

Joel

Are you planning to install it in a tight space ?
It's generally a bad idea to install electronics with poor ventilation.

it's getting lukewarm on the top and a little warmer than that on underside which is close to surface.
Any one having an surface thermometer ? or better an ir thermometer ?
or even better a infrared thermography camera flir or similar.
I can borrow such stuff with the risk that my colleagues at work thinks I'm nutcase, so i leave it to someone with easier access.

the 4 watts that it draws is transformed to heat.
we assume 2 to 3w in SBR and 2w in PSU (same psu as docking station).
worst case is 4w in SBR and 1w in PSU as the measurement error could be up to 1w.

One spec that would be a very good to get from Logitech is how much space do you need around the SBR in hidden installations, and does it need any ventilation could it be placed in a completely closed compartment ?

Electronics are aging faster with higher temperature so cramming in the hifi in a closed cupboard or cabinet with the components stacked on each other is a no no imho, use open frame hifi furniture (or proper ventilation in closed cabinets AC or fans ).

The aging process of for example capacitors are a at least a square function of the operating temperature or something like that.