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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpa View Post
    Can you see the firmware menu by pressing and holding "<" ?

    If firmware menu is displayed, then no display with LMS is a setting issue.
    Is this the back button on the boom and do you press and hold during power on, or at anytime?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by local.bin View Post
    Is this the back button on the boom and do you press and hold during power on, or at anytime?.
    If you do not get "Logitech" on powerup then it is display issue.

    The single left arrow button "<-" under the preset 2.
    Anytime after power up and Boom is connect to LMS or trying to connect- just hold for about 5-10 secs and you'll get into the Boom Setup menu. Be careful because if display is not working you could change Boom settings and then disconnect Boom from your network ?
    Last edited by bpa; 2017-02-02 at 09:10.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpa View Post
    If you do not get "Logitech" on powerup then it is display issue.

    The single left arrow button "<-" under the preset 2.
    Anytime after power up and Boom is connect to LMS or trying to connect- just hold for about 5-10 secs and you'll get into the Boom Setup menu. Be careful because if display is not working you could change Boom settings and then disconnect Boom from your network ?
    Ok, it was the one I was thinking of, but I lost connection to the device when the screen went blank some months ago and have been trying to find a solution since.

    I've tried the wifi card trick with no luck.

    All the lights on the front panel light and stay lit, so does that say its booting ok, but the display is just not showing anything?

    Thanks in advance.

  4. #14
    Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    It is likely that the display filament power supply circuitry in your Boom has failed. Many units suffer from this after some years. The display itself is also wearing out, but if it goes all dark or starts to fade from the outside edges towards the center, and sometimes recovers after a few minutes of being powered-off, it's the filament supply with 95% chance.
    A VFD is basically an electron tube, albeit a pretty complex one. In operation, it needs the filament (the six thin wires close to the front side of the display) to emit electrons, so it needs to be heated. This happens at a low voltage and a rather high power. The filament is fed +5 Volts on the left side and between 2 and 3 Volts on the right, creating a voltage drop between 2 and 3 volts. The higher this voltage drop is, the more electrons are emitted (and the brighter the filament wires are glowing). Besides the filament glowing brighter, the display's pixels will also become brighter.
    In 9 out of 10 cases, the failure is in supply for the the right side of the filament. Instead of keeping a voltage around 2.5V, it ramps up to 5.5V so it's even higher than the left side. This stops electron emission gradually or completely. VFD experts at Noritake (the manufacturer of the displays used in the Squeezebox range) call this "filament starvation".
    A Boom in operation has some hidden SMD parts behind the display that get red-hot. I am pretty sure that the failure point can be found somewhere in that area, however, it is practically impossible to find suitable replacement components because the SMD markings don't tell exactly enough what each component is for.
    While I could not find a way to repair the root cause yet, I found a workaround that turned out to work fine for many people who sent me their Boom for a display replacement. The fix is this:

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    I am using three run-of-the-mill diodes, each of which has a known voltage drop of around 0.7V. Three of them in series make a total voltage drop of about 2.1V. I am using them to pull down the voltage on the filament's right side. Diodes are needed because current must not flow from GND towards the filament pins. GND can be found in each of the screwholes so that is an ideal point to solder (as long as you leave enough room for the screw).
    The diodes can be packed together closely, shrink-wrapped, and hidden on the backside of the board.
    This little trick ensures that voltages on the right will never exceed ~3V as 2.1V are always subtracted by the diodes. So even if the gone-crazy Boom circuitry is sending +5.5V in, we will make 3.4 out of it which is in the acceptable boundaries. 2.9 Volts are still fine, actually we should just stay below ~4 Volts on the right to ensure a voltage drop big enough for the whole thing to work.
    The fix works for all brightness levels also. I found that an intact Boom is regulating the right side of the filament with different voltages, depending on the selected brightness. It does not make much difference though if we use diodes to make kind of a fixed voltage out of it.
    So you might give this a try, because this will help you a lot more than a new display that would also stay dark if the power supply circuit is broken

    Oh, by the way, the image may suggest that you need to connect the diodes to the middle pin of the 3-pin block at the right side of the display. Not quite, all these three pins are connected, inside the display as well as on the PCB, so you can best solder the first diode across all three pins to ensure a perfect connection.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    5x Squeezebox Classic SB3
    3.5x Squeezebox Boom (one broken)
    1x Transporter
    1.5x Controller (one broken)
    1.5x Touch (one broken)

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by local.bin View Post
    Ok, it was the one I was thinking of, but I lost connection to the device when the screen went blank some months ago and have been trying to find a solution since.

    I've tried the wifi card trick with no luck.

    All the lights on the front panel light and stay lit, so does that say its booting ok, but the display is just not showing anything?

    Thanks in advance.
    At a guess - something has gone wrong with display or display power supply.

    If you want to experiment you could try Net::UDAP which is used to configure SB Receiver which has no display but other users have used it on Booms. It may be a too technical for you.
    See http://forums.slimdevices.com/showth...iguration-tool

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeMuc2009 View Post
    It is likely that the display filament power supply circuitry in your Boom has failed. Many units suffer from this after some years. ...
    Many thanks Joe, this fix works great for me!

    One of my Boom's went black, after being disassembled and reassembled, without finding any obvious failing parts it started to work for a while, but just a few months, then black again. I did the same trick once more, no luck.
    I was searching for a failing component, like for the SB3 audio out transistors... then you came to rescue with this nice guide.

    Now there is light again!
    NAS: QNAP TS-459U+ QTS 4.2.2 (4x 2TB, RAID5)
    Services: LMS 7.9.0 , SSOTS 4.14
    Squeezebox: 6x Reciever, 3x Boom, 2x SB3 Classic (2x Controller -never used)
    Other: iPeng as controllers on iPad and iPhone

  7. #17
    Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Nice, jasell! Thanks for the feedback. May it keep working for a very long time. Please let me know if any trouble arises with this solution. Anyway, I have applied it several times and nobody ever complained, so it seems to do the trick.
    5x Squeezebox Classic SB3
    3.5x Squeezebox Boom (one broken)
    1x Transporter
    1.5x Controller (one broken)
    1.5x Touch (one broken)

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeMuc2009 View Post
    Nice, jasell! Thanks for the feedback. May it keep working for a very long time. Please let me know if any trouble arises with this solution. Anyway, I have applied it several times and nobody ever complained, so it seems to do the trick.
    Thanks so much for sharing this tip! It fixed my Boom, and kept me from having to take on the far more odious job of replacing the display - or getting rid of the unit altogether. I really appreciate it!

  9. #19
    Member pufnstuf's Avatar
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    Any pics of completed repairs?

    Hi JoeMuc2009, jasell, and Squonk

    Do you have a picture showing the diodes in place that you can share?

    I have the same problem with my Boom and want to try JoeMuc2009's fix, but I want to make sure I understand it correctly.

    Thanks for the great info and for the hope that my Boom has some life left in it!

  10. #20
    Member JoeMuc2009's Avatar
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    Hi pufnstuf,

    sorry, I don't have any photos of the arrangement at this time, but I will make a few tomorrow.

    Regards,
    Joe
    5x Squeezebox Classic SB3
    3.5x Squeezebox Boom (one broken)
    1x Transporter
    1.5x Controller (one broken)
    1.5x Touch (one broken)

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