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  1. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    489
    Quote Originally Posted by TechHome View Post
    Very interesting. Can't help with sourcing the correct replacement. Do you use Wi-Fi with the Touch? I'm curious if the IR would work better if a wired LAN connection was used.
    My Touch with IR trouble is wired.

  2. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Berne, Switzerland
    Posts
    56

    Victory!


    Good news: I have replaced the original IR module in my SB Touch with a new one and now it works perfectly again!

    Technical information:
    • the new IR module is a Vishay TSOP 34838, a cheap (1 USD) 38kHz part. I'm not sure if 38 or 40kHz is best (Logitech writes 40kHz but my oscilloscope says about 38...). I guess any IR module at around 38-40kHz would work, this one is just the one I could find easily
    • the only problem with this module is that I had to cross the VCC and GND pins. Versions with the right pinning are available, but I ordered the wrong one
    • the module ist not in a metal case like the original one, it's just plastics
    • the biggest difficulty was to remove the old IR module because of the bad accessability and the fact that the metal case is soldered to the PCB
    • to do that, I had to remove the PCB from the back of the case. I didn't separate the cables between the PCB and the screen
    • my oscilloscope shows that there are less perturbations at the output of the new IR module than before, but there is still some. It seems that it's not a problem

    Thanks to all for your support!

    Patrick

  3. #23
    Slim Devices Developer fcm4711's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    886
    Hello Patrick

    Congratulations! Nicely done. And thanks for reporting back.

    Enjoy
    Felix
    Programming is the art of cleverly arranging bits and bytes. - (c) Felix Mueller

  4. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    134
    Yes, thanks indeed!

    I will order the part and also attempt this repair. Looks like the Vishay part with the correct pinout is Vishay TSOP 32238. Here's the data sheet.

    Doug

  5. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    349
    I wonder if Logitech knew about this and fixed the issue with later Touch's? It doesn't seem THAT wide spread, given the few posts on the subject.

  6. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    349
    I had to check my remote as I rarely use it these days. I went across the room and pointed it away from my SBT and it worked fine. So I doubt my IR sensor will be breaking down anytime soon.

    Anyway, I'm glad I checked this thread since I also decided to take a peak at the batteries inside my remote. One was actually corroding. Look's like I got to it just in time.

  7. #27
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    4
    Wow, thanks guys! I'm going to attempt this repair as well!
    This is really a great community!

  8. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    134

    Repair went bad

    Please be very cautious when separating the case. After removing the stand w/ a 5/64 hex and the two #0 phillips screws, the case will start to separate from the bottom, but the top section may resist. In my case, when I pulled a bit to hard and the top section came free, the two halves separated enough to have torn the display cable. I now have a working touch, controllable only by Wi-Fi with no display. I'm not aware of a way to change the Wi-Fi settings as they do not appear in the web interface. Luckily I do have a spare Touch, but would love some pointers on how I can use this Logitech stealth mode touch-less, I created. Like I said, work very carefully in separating the case, use a splodger, or credit card, perhaps.

    Doug

  9. #29
    Senior Member Mnyb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Vństerňs Sweden
    Posts
    16,044
    Quote Originally Posted by TechHome View Post
    Please be very cautious when separating the case. After removing the stand w/ a 5/64 hex and the two #0 phillips screws, the case will start to separate from the bottom, but the top section may resist. In my case, when I pulled a bit to hard and the top section came free, the two halves separated enough to have torn the display cable. I now have a working touch, controllable only by Wi-Fi with no display. I'm not aware of a way to change the Wi-Fi settings as they do not appear in the web interface. Luckily I do have a spare Touch, but would love some pointers on how I can use this Logitech stealth mode touch-less, I created. Like I said, work very carefully in separating the case, use a splodger, or credit card, perhaps.

    Doug
    You can use SSH to edit the network settings files directly , but that requires an already working network interfaces ugh , if you edit them and loose conection your S.O.L .

    That's the reason for not be able to do it remotely . It must be conected to the network how else to reach it if sometimes goes belly up ? Yes it has display you can do settings without it being conected anywhere .
    Does that display cable looks like it can be repaired
    If you have to change the network settings you got one shot at doing it right .
    --------------------------------------------------------------------
    Main hifi: Touch + CIA PS +MeridianG68J MeridianHD621 MeridianG98DH 2 x MeridianDSP5200 MeridianDSP5200HC 2 xMeridianDSP3100 +Rel Stadium 3 sub.
    Bedroom/Office: Boom
    Kitchen: Touch + powered Fostex PM0.4
    Misc use: Radio (with battery)
    iPad1 with iPengHD & SqueezePad
    (spares Touch, SB3, reciever ,controller )
    server HP proliant micro server N36L with ClearOS Linux

    http://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html

  10. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    134
    Thanks, I did find a post or two that indicated it is possible to do a factory reset then bit with an SD or USB stick with an appropriately named script that will enable ssh, before the touch boots. Can anyone confirm our fill in the blanks on this? One such post was by John Swenson, but it did not include the details I would need to make it work.

    Doug

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