philippe_44 can you (or someone else) advise on decent tools for PCB soldering in order to get this job done please.
This is going to be tantamount to open-heart surgery for me, so I want to give myself the best chances of success!
I've not opened my Boom yet, I'm waiting for the display. But what I have for my usual electronic rework
- desoldering pump
- desoldering wick
- hot air station
- flux
- solder wire or cream
- Temperature controlled soldering iron
- Tweezers
My techniques vary if this is through-holes or SMD components.
If there are too many through holes, it can be a real pain and I might, if I do not care to save the original part, carefully cut most of the pins then remove pins one by one with the soldering iron and tweezers, sometimes with help of desoldering wick and flux to remove extra soldering paste. In general, trying to unsolder through holes components all at once with hot air is not great and impossible with soldering iron. At least, if you want to try that, absord as much as possible of soldering paste with desoldering wick. One you are done with removing pins & component, clean all holes one by one with desoldering pump and finish with desoldering wick (soldering iron on each side of the hole and pump on the other side)
If this is SMD, I'll use the hot air station. Never let the hot air gun idle on one pin (do not take a nozzle that is too small), gently and slowly move it on all pins and gently pull the component (not too hard !) till it moves. You can also prepare the work by removing soldering paste with desoldering wick.
Re-soldering of through-holes is easy with solder wire. Re-soldering of SMD I either use solder wire and soldering iron, solder one pin to position and then solder all the others quickly. I do not bother too much about shortcuts between pins if they are too close as I clean everything at the end with desoldering wick spread on all pins (it gives a nice finishing). Using soldering cream is easy as well : don't put too much cream, then use hot air gun and gently move it on all pins (once side only if the component is really large, can do both in // is component is small)
I'm sorry I cannot be more precise, but as said, I've not done that already on the Boom display and according to the picture, I'm not 100% sure. My techniques are just what they are, sure some have others that they might feel are better :-)
In general, you find a lot of good video guides how to do that, with the benefit of visual help
the display of my Boom is also fading and I was looking for a long time for a replacement unit. Then I found a German phone number on one of the data sheets and looked for more info. Noritake actually has a sales office in Germany that apparently nobody knows about, so I contacted them and asked for the MN16032G VFD or a newer compatible model. I have torn down a SqueezeBox Boom and found this part number on the back of the VFD.
Guess what - they have 5 units left! Not just any replacement, but the exact very part the SqueezeBox Boom shipped with! While the GU160x32D is probably a viable replacement (by dimension and pin placement), it is even harder to obtain, and the MN16032G is the original part so there is absolutely no risk in purchasing it. It will fit perfectly.
I am going to need only one myself, so I'd like to ask around if anybody else is would like to have one. I also have the proper equipment to unsolder the old VFD and put in the new one, so I can offer full repair for up to 4 units. The charge is 89,00 EUR per unit (including VAT) for the repair including the part plus shipping (both ways). First come, first serve! Please PN if you are interested.
Dealing with the German customs office is quite a hassle unfortunately so I need to kindly ask for your understanding that I can offer this repair only for units sent from inside the EU.
My next future plan is to create a circuit that will shut the VFD down completely inside the Boom. The displays are fading so quickly because they are always on, which is bad for power consumption and also for the display itself. Even if you configure the display to be completely "off" in any mode, including standby, the heater wires are still powered. I'm hoping to find a smart way to cut the display power as long as it is not actually used which should give the display a considerably longer lifetime. If I succeed, I'll post my results here of course.
As the interface is quite common for display units, an LCD or OLED replacement could also be possible. But certainly the original VFD is the most charming one.
Regards,
Joe
Last edited by JoeMuc2009; 2015-08-11, 15:31.
Reason: more specific info on part numbers
sigpic
PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!
the display of my Boom is also fading and I was looking for a long time for a replacement unit. Then I found a German phone number on one of the data sheets and looked for more info. Noritake actually has a sales office in Germany that apparently nobody knows about, so I contacted them and asked for the MN16032G VFD or a newer compatible model. I have torn down a SqueezeBox Boom and found this part number on the back of the VFD.
Guess what - they have 5 units left! Not just any replacement, but the exact very part the SqueezeBox Boom shipped with! While the GU160x32D is probably a viable replacement (by dimension and pin placement), it is even harder to obtain, and the MN16032G is the original part so there is absolutely no risk in purchasing it. It will fit perfectly.
I am going to need only one myself, so I'd like to ask around if anybody else is would like to have one. I also have the proper equipment to unsolder the old VFD and put in the new one, so I can offer full repair for up to 4 units. The charge is 89,00 EUR per unit (including VAT) for the repair including the part plus shipping (both ways). First come, first serve! Please PN if you are interested.
Dealing with the German customs office is quite a hassle unfortunately so I need to kindly ask for your understanding that I can offer this repair only for units sent from inside the EU.
My next future plan is to create a circuit that will shut the VFD down completely inside the Boom. The displays are fading so quickly because they are always on, which is bad for power consumption and also for the display itself. Even if you configure the display to be completely "off" in any mode, including standby, the heater wires are still powered. I'm hoping to find a smart way to cut the display power as long as it is not actually used which should give the display a considerably longer lifetime. If I succeed, I'll post my results here of course.
As the interface is quite common for display units, an LCD or OLED replacement could also be possible. But certainly the original VFD is the most charming one.
Regards,
Joe
PM Sent
Logitech Media Server Version: 8.2.0, Slim-devices Silver Transporter | SB Touch | 2 * SB Duets | 2 * SB Boom | SB Radio | Pi3 & Pi 4 + HiFiBerry-Amp+ Official Touchscreen + PiCorePlayer, (RIP SB Classic | SB Radio | Wandboard)
the displays arrived on Saturday. Here is the result. Note that the exposure is approximately the same in both display closeups, but in the "before" image the front panel was not mounted but only standing before the display, hence the number keys look like they are hanging deeper as usual. The new display looks almost double as bright, and the brightness distribution across the pixels is far better because none of them is burnt yet. For the time being, I will disconnect power entirely when the box isn't used to save the brightness and clarity for longer than before. In the long run, I am planning to create a small standby circuit that disconnects the display in standby so it is not on all the time. This will of course interfere with clock time display but there are cheaper clocks available anyway.
Before:
After:
The displays left (3 of which are reserved by now):
Swap took 1h26 minutes or 1 day, 1h, 26mins ??
Looks great, congratulations.
2 SB 3 • 1 PCP 7 • Libratone Loop, Zipp, Zipp Mini • iPeng (iPhone + iPad) • LMS 8.1 (docker) with plugins: CD Player, WaveInput by bpa • Material Skin by Craig Drummond • IRBlaster by Gwendesign (Felix) • Smart Mix, Music Walk With Me, What Was That Tune? by Michael Herger • PowerSave by Jason Holtzapple • Song Info, Song Lyrics by Erland Isaksson • BBC Sounds by Stuart McLean • AirPlay Bridge by philippe_44 • Auto Dim Display, SaverSwitcher, ContextMenu by Peter Watkins.
@Epoch:
well the swap actually went much quicker as I had the unit disassembled already. Soldering work was approx. 15 minutes. I took some time to test around and put everything back together before taking the shot of the new display.
@everyone:
I will stock up a little on displays. Asked Noritake to send another 5 pieces which will be shipped some time in October probably. So there is a little more spare parts available for repairs if anybody is still interested.
sigpic
PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!
Once you've received the additional stock, don't you think it would be an idea to ask a forum admin (Michael, I suppose ) to make this thread a sticky ?
Even with the limited activity on the forums, this thread will sink to page 2 in time. And the problem you're solving is, sadly, of general interest...
CORRECTION: To open a new sticky thread on the subject, rather.
(and if you set-up shop with extra practices on speakers refurbishing and/or custom color painting/wrapping for Booms, I'll be one of your customers... I know and old Boom in a kitchen that wishes it were white and could use a new screen )
2 SB 3 • 1 PCP 7 • Libratone Loop, Zipp, Zipp Mini • iPeng (iPhone + iPad) • LMS 8.1 (docker) with plugins: CD Player, WaveInput by bpa • Material Skin by Craig Drummond • IRBlaster by Gwendesign (Felix) • Smart Mix, Music Walk With Me, What Was That Tune? by Michael Herger • PowerSave by Jason Holtzapple • Song Info, Song Lyrics by Erland Isaksson • BBC Sounds by Stuart McLean • AirPlay Bridge by philippe_44 • Auto Dim Display, SaverSwitcher, ContextMenu by Peter Watkins.
that's a nice set of ideas. However, it's probably not going to happen. Noritake indicated that they no longer produce the MN16032G display, and that's partly because their supplier has abandoned the driver chips required. My questions regarding the availability of the GU160x32 were unheard as of now. It might be a good replacement but afaik nobody has ever tried, and it seems to be even harder to get than the old one.
To make things worse, Noritake reserve most of the remaining units for a potential large order, so what is sold is only given away in very small lots, if at all. The next 5-piece shipment may be the last forever. And I'm not planning to be the "large order" they are waiting for. For a hobbyist that would go too far.
It's a nice idea to offer alternative "bodies" for the device but that is something far beyond my possibilities. A 3D printer may help, just keep in mind that the Boom case is quite solid and high quality. I imagine it's pretty hard to get that quality and sound properties from a 3D print which is usually the opposite of "solid". Just painting the black case won't last long, same goes for the speaker grilles. Well, at least they are made of metal so a car garage could help varnish them.
While thinking about cars, how about one of these plastic films they cover entire cars with these days to change their design? Maybe that could do it...
Eventually the control panel and its buttons cannot be changed much because everything needs to remain transparent where LED illumination is applied, and the surface is covered with something that appears to me like nothing on earth can stick to it for long (except fingerprints). It might look ugly if you have a white box with white speakers and a black middle part.
After all, the Boom is remaining with some enthusiasts, and that market is shrinking. Setting up a shop for it is not worth while, I fear. Sorry!
By the way, this thread is on #3 at Google if you look for "Squeezebox boom display". Not too bad! The thread may be slipping off the 1st page here but I assume that many people find their way here anyway.
Regards,
Joe
sigpic
PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!
omg... just made a thermo image of the unit. It was in standby all day with the display switched off. Great! Most of the heat is from the display whose heaters stay on all the time. Really time to switch that display off in standby.
Some of the ICs are also under fire during standby, hence the heat in the lower part of the control panel.
sigpic
PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!
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